Motul Engine Clean

[noi8u]

I found a race shop that sells a Motul motor flush for $30. This one is added to hot oil and run for 15 minutes and apparently repeated treatments can be done until the oil drains clean!

http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/motuloil.html

 

[JohnBrowning]

No but a young kid growing up in Germany they used to sell a 0W20 Flushing oil. It was super thin oil with a boat load of solvents,dispersant and AW additives in it. It came in a 1 gallon jug roughly if I recall correctly.We owned a lot of Opels that had some black death issues back in the day running ont he Autobahn with GM 20W20 in the crank case!

Call me stupid but why not pick up a pint of B12 Chemtool at Walmart for $2.75 cents. Add it to a cool engine and use the entire pint not the 1.2 pint instructions on the can. Fire it up for 30 minute fast idle and then drain. If you really want to see how nasty your engine is inside first drain all the used oil out. Now refill with the cheapest 5W30 that is SM GF3/4. Now add that pint of b12 and fire your best up and let her run at about 1200RPM's for 30 minute. After that shut her down and start draining her catch some of that otherwise new oil in a glass jar so you can see how black it now is. Now stop and think about how much [censored] has to be on the inside of your engine for it to turn other wise clean clear oil black as midnight with in 30 minutes. Now change the filter and refill with clean high grade oil of your choice!

 

[noi8u]

Great video of Motul Engine Clean that is used by car and bike race shops. This is what I've decided on with Motul Synergie+ 10w40 at $9/qt. from a local Porsche Shop.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=613819500230207789#

 

[JohnBrowning]

I have not tried the Motul oil flush that they sell today but I would never use a flush every oil change unless I was doing 12 month Oil Change Interval!That would be what I call excessive. I normaly do not recomend a flush any more often then every 75,000 miles with a strong solvent flush like 1 pint of B12. Together with a good oil and good OCI for the application should keep things really clean. If we where talking 1950's dino oil I could see doing a flush every oil change but not with todays modern fuel injection and decent dino oils.

 

[pickled]

+1 on JB's frequency recommendation

 

[JohnBrowning]

pickled like all things most of us men fall prey to "If a little bit is good a lot must be even better!". Normaly we are our own wosrt enemies. Their was an anicent Alchemist that wrote something to the effect of "The difference between a cure/treatment and a poisin is all in the dosage given!" I can not recall his name but he is often cited as one of the founders of modern drug based medcine. His statement though can be bent a little to fit almost all forms of repair or maintnece as well!

 

[c3po]

Originally Posted By: pickled
+1 on JB's frequency recommendation


+2, on JB's frequency recommendation.

 

[SamSpade]

I bought a 3-yr old BMW 3 yrs ago that had some sludging according to the mechanic. I felt like spending some money that time and tried Motul Engine Clean, and then used the expensive Motul 300V 5W-40 after that. Didn't feel a difference after changing the oil.

The MSDS is hard to find but found one here: http://motul-canada.com/en/products/prod...n_Auto_MSDS.pdf

It's composed mostly of petroleum distillates (including kerosene) like other typical flush products. Must be some secret ingredient they put in that makes it expensive.

EDIT: Oh, it's a petroleum flush with ZDDP. Interesting.

 

[Gary Allan]

Solvents ..light kero ..and some added AW since you're basically throwing in a cutting agent.

 

[c3po]

Originally Posted By: SamSpade
I bought a 3-yr old BMW 3 yrs ago that had some sludging according to the mechanic. I felt like spending some money that time and tried Motul Engine Clean, and then used the expensive Motul 300V 5W-40 after that. Didn't feel a difference after changing the oil.

The MSDS is hard to find but found one here: http://motul-canada.com/en/products/prod...n_Auto_MSDS.pdf

It's composed mostly of petroleum distillates (including kerosene) like other typical flush products. Must be some secret ingredient they put in that makes it expensive.

EDIT: Oh, it's a petroleum flush with ZDDP. Interesting.


You might want to give Neutra a try, the stuff really works.

 

[Pman]

If you run a synthetic you won't have the sludge, it will clean existing sludge. Just not as fast.

The only thing I put in my crank case is good oil. Mobil 1 or Valvoline syn for the "old" ones, and soon Redline or Amsoil (haven't decided yet) for the "new" one.

Besides, isn't motul a grade V? What are they worried about with deposits? Marketing scam to me.

Solvents like that and b12 don't lubricate. Why would you put a non-lubricant into the crankcase?

 

[JohnBrowning]

I am considering building my own out of crysilic acid (sp) and some amines.

 

[Pman]

Throw in some oil of pressed rattlesnake for good measure and a bit of sodium hydoxide and I'll buy some.