I'm putting the Redline 0w30 in today...

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Ok I can't wait anymore... I'm putting in the Redline 0w30 today for the first run.

I will be filling up with fuel when I take it on the run after the change so I can check the fuel economy average versus the Amsoil.

I also want to see how well it flows in the cold. It's getting a tad nippy here.

I will be posting a UOA here of the second run of the Red Line once it is run and that should be by Januaryish.

WOOHOO!
 
Originally Posted By: buster
How many miles will be on the sample in January?
10K KM 6K miles. Sample only, not dump unless the UOA says to.
 
Both products are Steller. Not sure you'll see much change but I think you'll be happy. IMO Amsoil, redline and schaeffers are the tops
 
Will be interesting to see how it compares to my Amsoil UOA's then.
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Have your UOA looked good in the passed? Your Sig says you have been using SSO, thats a tough product to beat. Either way you'll be happy and so will your vehicle
 
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Interested in the results, making a case for my father to switch to RL from Amsoil, and save the $20 PC fee. Hope it works for you!
 
I doubt RL is going to be better than the Amsoil. If anything, I bet the Amsoil SSO is a lot better.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I doubt RL is going to be better than the Amsoil. If anything, I bet the Amsoil SSO is a lot better.


I actually believe the opposite but we'll know after StevieC does his little test.
 
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I doubt RL is going to be better than the Amsoil. If anything, I bet the Amsoil SSO is a lot better.


I actually believe the opposite but we'll know after StevieC does his little test.


True, but keep in mind the size and resources of Amsoil R&D vs. Redline R&D.
 
Well just keep in mind that the first two OCI's the wear metals will not read right! It will be chemically cleaning all the oxides in the engine from aluminum to lead and everything in between the wear metals will read high in 99% of applications running Redline until the third oil change intervals then it starts to read much more accurately!So do not suprised! It is rare that you get nice low wear numbers upon switching initially so do not be suprised by this if it should happen. Also make sure they know the lab that is that you are running an oil that is ester based it will not play well with most labs testing if they do not recaliprate for it!

Run good filtration and use insolubles and TBN as the indicator. The tbn retension comes up with each oil change interval as the engine get's cleaner the TBN lasts longer.

If the test is less then 3 oil change intervals then we already know Redline will not be reading a true indication of wear or TBN retension. So why if itis not going to be at least tht long thenthe test is already a waste of time as we have years and years of UOA as well as expert Testimony from Terry and Molakule and other's explaining this effect that is unique to oils that are mostly or all ester based. We have record low wear levels in Toyota's that Terry was monitoring for paying customers running Redline that have record low levels of wear. All one has to do is go back far enough in the arcive of UOA to find them. No need to re-invent the wheel we already have all the research and UOA we need in the Archives. Few oils today have any ester's in them and most that do have some are sualy under 20% so the cleaning effect is not that drastic. NEO,Motul 300V,Fuchs Titan,Redline and just a few others have 60% or higher ester content to elicite the extreme cleaning effect!
 
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P.S. As for cold pumping I ran Redline 5W40 down to -35°F cold soak with a -28°F start to go to church. Only about 6 cars made it that Sunday to church so I would say your 0W30 will do fine! Ester's do everything better then dino or PAO or G-III base stocks.
 
Keep in mind you cannot compare amsoil and Redline. Amsoil has always been the extended drain company. Their oils are setup to perfrom at extremely long intervals. redline on the other hand is a company who is well known in the racing circles and has many over additized oils(not a bad thing) and they are one of the last here in the states making a POE based oil.

A UOA as many of you realize will not show superiority here. I ran SSO in both of my Toyotas and personally dont like it in those vehicles. RL 5w-30 is about ten times more quiet and the engines have smoothed out condiderably.
 
I purchased 8 quarts of Redline 0w-30 to replace the 10w-30 Redline currently in the sump, along with a Pure One oil filter- hopefully I will get to the oil change by the end of October- interested to see if there is any difference in using the ow-30 in the winter as compared to the 5w-30 I normally use {I have used Redline oil exclusively for the last 150,000+ miles in this car}
 
I am an amsoil dealer, but don't hold it above the others in quality. Basically I try to stay open minded about other products and newer formulations. This being said, what would the major differences be between the redline 5-30 and Amsoil 5-30? Does the redline clean better?

Here my reason for this question. We just bought an 99 F150 for a family member. I was thinking of going the ARX route with it, but would redline be a better option?
 
Originally Posted By: Ragin_Diesel
Have your UOA looked good in the passed? Your Sig says you have been using SSO, thats a tough product to beat. Either way you'll be happy and so will your vehicle


The SSO UOA's are excellent. They are posted here. I'm always experimenting and I will let you know how it compares to SSO.

Originally Posted By: ADFD1
Interested in the results, making a case for my father to switch to RL from Amsoil, and save the $20 PC fee. Hope it works for you!


I will let you know how it goes...


I put it in about 2 hours ago and went out shopping and errand running. So far I'm impressed. The oil pressure gauge was showing over 100 PSI on a cold engine. (Amsoil was about 85-90) Then once it was warmed up to operating temperature (30KM of driving) it was sitting at 65 PSI at 2K RPM compared to my Amsoil which was 50 PSI at 2K RPM at the same temperature. Idling at the lights fully warmed up I have 20 PSI. Amsoil is 10 PSI. I guess POE has better pressure properties. (30wt compared to 30wt)

The other thing is the engine is completely silent. I kid you not... I can't hear the thing running at all. I can hear the injectors ticking ever so slightly and the rad-fan kick on/off but otherwise it's dead silent. I always had quiet but somewhat tappy valve-lifters. So far this gets a
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Lets see if it maintains this Ninja effect.
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Anyways... It's the first fill with an Amsoil EAO filter on there. I will run it 3 fills before I do a UOA to ensure all the Amsoil is gone and that all the cleaning that may be going on has fully taken place and won't play with the numbers.

The Amsoil that I took out is off to the Lab for testing to see if my new Amsoil EAA conical air filter I put on recently fixed the elevated SI levels in my last UOA's.

Will keep y'all posted.
 
Would anybody care to explain to me why and/or how esters are so much better? And where's the best place to read about it?

Thanks
 
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