8 hp Craftsman Snowblower problems

[EloManga]

Hey guys,
I have the above snowblower that we found as someone was throwing out, and have had some problems with it. I've had it for 3 years now and originally, the only thing wrong was the belt for the auger was broken. Other than that, it was ok. Last year the shear pin broke which is normal.
But the main problem I'm having with it is that when it's warm, it'll run fine. Remove the choke completely, no problems. But, then again, there's no snow at that time so that doesn't help me. When there is snow, I have to have the choke on to run it, and it won't run full out or it'll bog down. Last winter I had the great problem of it not being able to throw the snow out the chute! That was fun, not!
So, I haven't looked at it since last winter and was wondering where I should start to fix this [censored] thing! I asked a mechanic buddy at work and he said to start with the carb. After that, what else could be done? I don't think I changed the plug, but I did clean it. Do you think changing the plug will make a huge difference?
Also, this blower was made by Noma, who is out of business, and has snow trax, instead of wheels.
Thanks

 

[Quest]

look into your carb.

 

[greenaccord02]

Do like your buddy said and look to the carb. It sounds like it needs to be adjusted/cleaned.

 

[Scienceman]

yea! something I specialize in!

1. change sparkpulg
2. Clean/check carb
3. kick it (I swear, it helps)

4. you say it runs fine when warm? while checking/cleaning carb, check for and flimsly or abmost broken parts in it. those cheap parts break often.
5. (didn't take that much time reading your problem...) but if it is not a 2 cycle ( 8hp shouldn't be) put some gas treatment in it. (how's the oil?)

 

[Warstud]

Sounds like a carb issue alright..not getting enough gas..thats why it's running on choke. Before tearing apart the carb though I would remove the bowl. There is a brass screw (main jet) that holds the bowl on from underneath. But first your going to want to either empty the gas out or pinch the line before removing the main jet. Once removed..soak in carb cleaner then clean out the tiny holes that go thru the jet with fine wire. If that doesn't work you may have to soak the entire carb and blow out with compressed air.

 

[Scienceman]

^yes, I failed to mention that, thanks!^

 

[Mamala Bay]

If you got a fuel and air filter may want to change that out also.

 

[chad8]

Originally Posted By: Warstud
Sounds like a carb issue alright..not getting enough gas..thats why it's running on choke. Before tearing apart the carb though I would remove the bowl. There is a brass screw (main jet) that holds the bowl on from underneath. But first your going to want to either empty the gas out or pinch the line before removing the main jet. Once removed..soak in carb cleaner then clean out the tiny holes that go thru the jet with fine wire. If that doesn't work you may have to soak the entire carb and blow out with compressed air.


+1 I have 3 or 4 snow blowers like this I work on.very easy to fix. Just as above ,but i add a healthy dose good quality carb cleaner before i tear the carb off like berrymen or a combo of omc engine fuel system cleaner and carb or injector cleaner.seafoam works great too. run the engine and slowly run it with choke and then try to push it in. if the engine dies or tries to die pull it out again.run it some more . repeat. sometimes it is just enough to break up the varnish without having to remove the carb.
I just got one that would not run at all. I cleaned the jet needle with the wire and it ran perfectly. you never know..

 

[Craig in Canada]

I would definitely take apart the carb and clean it, then re-set it completely from factory initial specs in the weather you intend to use it in. The engine won't be made by "Noma", you'll need to determine what it is and then google or ask for help finding initial settings.

Also, for the inability to throw, I highly, HIGHLY recommend a Clarence impeller kit from http://smllengns.tripod.com/

The issue is often clearance between the impeller and the impeller housing allowing certain viscosities of snow/slush to jam up instead of throwing out the chute.

My old 1986 8hp Toro threw some snow great but clogged very frequently when doing the EOD (salted plow pile at the end of the driveway). My dad's previous 5hp did a better job. A couple of years ago it was handed down to me and I did some restoration work on it and found 1/4"-1/2" of clearance around the impeller.

I purchased and installed one of these kits and now it out-throws everything on the street including 13hp competition and throws everything from fine powder to water at least 30', usually more. It used to never really bog the engine because when throwing sticky stuff it would just be mixing it around in the impeller instead of throwing it through. Now I can load it right up and stall it with EOD if I wanted to.

Get the engine running first, then get a Clarence clearance kit

 

[yeehaw1960]

I don't want to sound lazy, but...

Loosen the bowl nut and remove. Pull the bowl down and clean it out. Meticulously clean the bowl nut, including all holes/passages. Straight down the middle, the large holes at the base of the screw, and the pin hole just atop of the thread line. Put it back together and you'll probably be OK. If not, and it's not more than 5 or 6 years old, you'll have to rebuild. Anything much older than that and rebuilding is a waste of time. Send us a picture and we'll tell you if it's one of those EPA restricted carbs that need new parts (rubber) inside.

 

[EloManga]

Wow, thanks for the responses guys!
Ok, I'll be taking the carb off on Thursday and I'll get a new plug too.
It doesn't have a air or fuel filter, so those can't be changed. I put Mobil 5w30 clean 7500 in it, so it should be good for it.
But, consensus here is take off the carb completely or just from the bowl? I can take it to work (I work for the transit company), so I'm sure I could clean it better at the garage than at home.
I'm not sure what engine it is either, Noma was just the maker of the frame and other parts, not the engine.
Thanks again!
(PS, went to a store that was for mower & blower parts & sales, saw a snow trax Honda blower, $3500! [censored] they're expensive!)

 

[hemitom]

ON THIS MODEL I THINK THERE IS A POWER ADJUSTING SCREW ON THE THE BOTTOM OF THE FLOAT BOWL. sorry about the caps. When the machine bogs under load this is usually the problem, also won't idle right if not properly adjusted. Turn the screw in all the way but not to tight, back off the screw one and a half turns and use this as a starting point for adjustments. make your adjustment with the blower running at full throttle.

 

[yeehaw1960]

Nope, no air filter on snow blowers. Just a guard to keep water/snow out of the carb. It's probably a Tecumseh snow king engine. If it has a screw at the bottom of the carb bowl, remove it (all) using the nut at the base of the screw. Clean out the bowl, clean the bowl nut. When you have the bowl nut and screw apart from each other to clean, watch you don't lose the little washer and rubber gasket between the nut and the screw. Make sure you don't screw the screw all the way in and then reinstall the bowl nut or you'll ruin the tip of the screw. Get the screw started, install the bowl nut and adjust by turning in until it won't go any more (don't force it). Turn it back open 1 1/2 turns like hemitom says. After the engine is warmed up, turn the screw in until the engine stammers, turn it back out 1/4 or so turns at a time until it smooths out. Turn it out another 1/4. You're done unless your carb needs to be removed/soaked/set on fire/thrown over a cliff/ran over by a car, etc.

 

[EloManga]

Wow, thanks again guys for all the tips! All of you guys are really helpful, I appreciate it!
I will start working on it tomorrow, but I was going to remove the carb off the engine and start cleaning from there. I figure why do half a job and get stuck again while plowing and then try to fix it when it's really cold out.
I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Thanks again!