So I plan on adding an fan cooled auxiliary cooler on my 2004.5 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins with a 48re and I am thinking of adding an additional spin on filter to help keep the ATF clean. Should I set it up as a bypass or a full flow filter? Thanks!
Transmission auxiliary filter
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Take your pick. Bypass will attain the cleanest fluid. Full flow will assure that any stray item (of a certain size) will never make it through. Either is vastly superior to none.
Edit: Do both and have the best of both worlds.
Edit: Do both and have the best of both worlds.
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I'd what Gary said. Do both! You can't go wrong with both a bypass and a full flow filter
Some of those modern Dodge RWD transmissions have a full flow spin on filter inside the pan next to the pickup filter for the pump. If that's the case, then a bypass or more magnets would be your only upgrades besides better fluid and cooling.
Ok do you folks think I will have any pressure issues to speak of? What would be the easiest way to plumb a bypass with a full flow? "T" off the filter head? Thanks!
Assuming your bypass filter has a restriction orifice, you can put a tee in the flow path before the coolers and then a return tee in the flow path after the coolers. Enough fluid will be driven across and through the bypass due to the flow resistance through the coolers and full flow filter, if you have one there. Gary Allan has a nifty diagram in several threads around here. This is easily the best way I have found to plumb a trans bypass filter.
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Like bmwtechguy says, if you've got a restrictor in the bypass filter, just plumb it across the cooler circuit. The Amsoil BP80A with EaBP90 just happens to be about the cheapest bypass setup out there. Ideal for this type of service. You're at around $60+/- in total materials and parts. A NorthernTool hydraulic filter will run you about $23+/- delivered ..but includes the filter too. Replacements will be more expensive than your common remote mount 3/4-16 thread filters ..but the frequency of change out/service should be infrequent enough to make the break even point several years out.
Awesome, great info here! Thanks folks!
Hey Gary Allen I have been to Pottstown, PA. Did the Yuengling tour.
Hey Gary Allen I have been to Pottstown, PA. Did the Yuengling tour.
So you guys think a true hydraulic filter is my best bet, not quick and cheap with something like a motorcraft FL1A?
I would be inclined, for a full-flow to just get a Purolator PureOne that is the equivalent of FL1A or FL400S, the latter of which does not take up quite as much room. Flow and filtration is excellent for the price. Why spend a lot of dough for little if any gain? Quick and cheap would be a Magnefine or SPX/Filtran inline filter: no mount to buy or install. You could even put some strong magnets on the outside of a full flow metal can filter such as the PureOne.
Ok...I think I am gonna go with the Northern Tool filter since it specs out to just about what I want. Obv. I will have to get some extra filters. Ok one last dumb question should I put the filter before or after the aux cooler?
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Originally Posted By: rufushusky
Ok...I think I am gonna go with the Northern Tool filter since it specs out to just about what I want. Obv. I will have to get some extra filters. Ok one last dumb question should I put the filter before or after the aux cooler?
Just so you're aware of what bmwtechguy is saying. The hydraulic filters are 1-12 thread. They'll run you about $8 from NAPA. That's the common thread for just about all low pressure hydraulic filters. They're typically the size of an FL1A. You might find the lifetime supply on ebay for cheap ..but generally speaking, they're about 2-4 times as expensive as cheaper automotive filter ..and a little more than a Purolator PureONE. The mount will cost you a bit more (also available from NAPA - Jeg's, Summit).
As he also said, you could simplify the installation with a Magnefine. That will only require a couple of hose clamps. In conjunction with a bypass filter, I think it would last years (as would the hydraulic or other full flow fitler).
After the bypass filter has been in there for a while, the full flow will have virtually no loading except for the random larger stray particle. All the junk that suspended should be trapped. Those who have MG's or Frantz (toilet paper filters) get to see the cleaning process when they change out the rolls.
Ok...I think I am gonna go with the Northern Tool filter since it specs out to just about what I want. Obv. I will have to get some extra filters. Ok one last dumb question should I put the filter before or after the aux cooler?
Just so you're aware of what bmwtechguy is saying. The hydraulic filters are 1-12 thread. They'll run you about $8 from NAPA. That's the common thread for just about all low pressure hydraulic filters. They're typically the size of an FL1A. You might find the lifetime supply on ebay for cheap ..but generally speaking, they're about 2-4 times as expensive as cheaper automotive filter ..and a little more than a Purolator PureONE. The mount will cost you a bit more (also available from NAPA - Jeg's, Summit).
As he also said, you could simplify the installation with a Magnefine. That will only require a couple of hose clamps. In conjunction with a bypass filter, I think it would last years (as would the hydraulic or other full flow fitler).
After the bypass filter has been in there for a while, the full flow will have virtually no loading except for the random larger stray particle. All the junk that suspended should be trapped. Those who have MG's or Frantz (toilet paper filters) get to see the cleaning process when they change out the rolls.
Ok I am not too worried about finding 1-12 hydraulic filters, Cummins Northeast is not far from me. As far as the bypass valve to prevent the filter from clogging the line in the event it fills, is that part of the filter head or the filter itself?
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Originally Posted By: rufushusky
Ok I am not too worried about finding 1-12 hydraulic filters, Cummins Northeast is not far from me. As far as the bypass valve to prevent the filter from clogging the line in the event it fills, is that part of the filter head or the filter itself?
It's in the filter head. There is one automotive filter in the 1-12 thread. It's the Jaguar/Lincoln filter. I believe it has a bypass valve, but it would be redundant in this application.
Ok I am not too worried about finding 1-12 hydraulic filters, Cummins Northeast is not far from me. As far as the bypass valve to prevent the filter from clogging the line in the event it fills, is that part of the filter head or the filter itself?
It's in the filter head. There is one automotive filter in the 1-12 thread. It's the Jaguar/Lincoln filter. I believe it has a bypass valve, but it would be redundant in this application.
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Originally Posted By: rufushusky
Awesome, great info here! Thanks folks!
Hey Gary Allen I have been to Pottstown, PA. Did the Yuengling tour.
I missed this. Oh ..you're thinking of Pottsville. That's where the brewery is. Up the river a ways. Been through there many times in the past.
Awesome, great info here! Thanks folks!
Hey Gary Allen I have been to Pottstown, PA. Did the Yuengling tour.
I missed this. Oh ..you're thinking of Pottsville. That's where the brewery is. Up the river a ways. Been through there many times in the past.
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Originally Posted By: ac_tc
why not install the same fleetguard filter as your engine uses?
as i understand fleetguards have a piece of finer filter media
inside to catch smaller stuff.
A 1-16 (Cummins fullflow and Amsoil EaBp thread) mount would be an Amsoil mount or an even more expensive one (from those I've seen available). The full flow Cummins filter has no bypass ..but it's probably not all that necessary.
why not install the same fleetguard filter as your engine uses?
as i understand fleetguards have a piece of finer filter media
inside to catch smaller stuff.
A 1-16 (Cummins fullflow and Amsoil EaBp thread) mount would be an Amsoil mount or an even more expensive one (from those I've seen available). The full flow Cummins filter has no bypass ..but it's probably not all that necessary.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Originally Posted By: rufushusky
Awesome, great info here! Thanks folks!
Hey Gary Allen I have been to Pottstown, PA. Did the Yuengling tour.
I missed this. Oh ..you're thinking of Pottsville. That's where the brewery is. Up the river a ways. Been through there many times in the past.
Shoot yeah your right!
Sorry on last dumb post:
The Northern Tool kit says 14 thread per inch...to me that sounds like 1-14. This grainger kit is 1-12 which seems to be a more common hydraulic filter head. Here are the specs:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4ZC86
My big concern is the bypass set properly?
Originally Posted By: rufushusky
Awesome, great info here! Thanks folks!
Hey Gary Allen I have been to Pottstown, PA. Did the Yuengling tour.
I missed this. Oh ..you're thinking of Pottsville. That's where the brewery is. Up the river a ways. Been through there many times in the past.
Shoot yeah your right!
Sorry on last dumb post:
The Northern Tool kit says 14 thread per inch...to me that sounds like 1-14. This grainger kit is 1-12 which seems to be a more common hydraulic filter head. Here are the specs:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4ZC86
My big concern is the bypass set properly?
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Link me to the Northerntool 1-14 data. Are you sure that's not a fuel filter you're looking at?
Oddly - the 4020 (nt/buyers) put into Wix shows a 3/4-16 filter ..yet the Northerntool mount that I've purchased fits the common 1-12 hydraulic thread.
Edit: Even the Goldenrod fuel filter from Northerntool sports a 1-12 thread.
Oddly - the 4020 (nt/buyers) put into Wix shows a 3/4-16 filter ..yet the Northerntool mount that I've purchased fits the common 1-12 hydraulic thread.
Edit: Even the Goldenrod fuel filter from Northerntool sports a 1-12 thread.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_12006_12006
Under "additional specs"
"# 14 threads per inch"
Maybe it is a typo, I dunno..I will call tomorrow.
Under "additional specs"
"# 14 threads per inch"
Maybe it is a typo, I dunno..I will call tomorrow.
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