OIL IS KILLING OUR CARS!!!!!

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New to Bob, good day everyone, I have been reading studying, have actually gone 46 pages of this blog and many others looking for the perfect oil for my car, since Motul is getting a bit expensive for my wallet. Came across this very interesting article: oil is killing our cars, very interesting revelations to suit all cars!!!

key points:

About a year ago I read about the reduction of zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP) in the oils supplied with API approval that could affect sliding and high pressure (EP) friction in our cars.

“The reduction of the zinc, manganese and phosphates are causing very early destruction of cams and followers”.

Imput from Castrol, Redline, Christiansen Oil, Valvoline, Mobil, Shell, Standard Oil and Amsoil for input.

http://www.minimania.com/ArticleV.cfm?DisplayID=1922
 
Originally Posted By: onequi
very interesting revelations to suit all cars!!!

...with flat tappets.

...i.e. not many modern cars.
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The article makes the same qualification:

Quote:
It’s today’s “modern” API (American Petroleum Industry) approved oils that are killing our engines: Meaning all flat tappet (cam follower) equipped engines, as used in all BMC products, all British Leyland products, most pushrod engines prior to 1980, early Volvos, American high-performance engines and many others.
 
There's no way you read 46 pages of posts and didn't come across a ZDDP thread.

If it bothers you, run Rotella.

But your Mini doesn't have flat tappets, and is designed to run on SM (800 ppm zddp, not 1400)
 
Oh no! the sky is falling!

So, what did you say again? 5W20 is so thin it's gonna grind down your engine into iron filings?

***I'm all for the ILSAC GF4/GF5 spec. and I know all of my cars can take it without missing a beat***

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Q.
 
I happened to come accross this article by reading up on M1 TDT 5W-40 for petrol engines which specify API SM specifications for high performance gasoline engines and mixed fleets, which I'm strongly considering but Rotella T 5W-40 seems intersting. Is it worth considering putting a diesel oil on my Mini Supercharger?

I'm a stop and go, hi rev backroad driver in a very hot place, so I'm trying to educate myself on what will be best oil for my situation and driving conditions. I'm also strongly considering doing the oil change myself, the mini is the only car I have yet to change my own oil on, but the economy is the perfect do it yourself coach!

My car has 45K, all stock, but always pushed very hard. so I'm not sure if I should actually start considering a 10W-X oil instead? I did a side by side comparison with M1 TDT 5W40 and M1 0W40 and the results are very similar. so I'm really confused at this point. I'm also now running a group IV oil now, but looking to get into an oil that I can by locally in a shop and change every 5K instead of my now standard of 7500K with Motul.

Also considering at PP 5W-40, Castrol 5W40, Mobil recommends 0W40 for my car but do they know I live in South Florida, probably not. BMW recommends ACEA A3/B3 and BMW-LL01, hhmmm.

I'm here to learn from the best in the business of oil!
 
If you're okay with all those 5w-40 oils, you'll be totally fine with Mobil 1 0w-40.
 
In the article, it notes that a failure was at 900 miles, and otherwise special oils were only needed for break in.
I have also heard from an oil engineer on a car talk show that only break in is the problem with reduced additives.
Very high performance and aftermarket cams/valvtrains can be different.
 
Originally Posted By: onequi
Mobil recommends 0W40 for my car but do they know I live in South Florida,

They don't have to know. It doesn't matter where you live. The cold flow benefits of a 0w-XX oil apply to all climates. Read up on the articles posted on BITOG by AE Haas, who runs 0w-20 oils in his Lambos and Ferraris, and also lives in South Florida.

FYI, I was running GC in my BMW when I was living down there, too.
 
M1 0w40. I know of a few guys(track junkies) that use it in their Mini's for daily driving and weekend roadcourse fun
 
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Actually, 0w and 5w is not for everyone. Unfortunately due to the way physics works, 0w- and 5w- oils will almost certainly always shear more and faster than a 10w- or 15w-

You have to be gentler on warm up with a higher initial grade. That said, some racing folks are running straight SAE30 or 40 or what have you without major issues.
 
Originally Posted By: djlinux64
Actually, 0w and 5w is not for everyone. Unfortunately due to the way physics works, 0w- and 5w- oils will almost certainly always shear more and faster than a 10w- or 15w-

It used to be that way. No longer the case with a modern 0w-30 or 5w-30 PAO synthetic.

M1 0w-40 does happen to shear out to a high 30-weight in some applications though. However, the slight viscosity change is yet to be linked to premature engine wear or other catastrophic failure.
 
The new semi-synthetic mobil 10W40 lists the amount of Phosphorous 0.1440 in the TDS.
web page
That's 1440 ppm and it is rare for a company to put an additive like this one in the TDS .
I think we have a case here.

edit: I checked 3 TDS of mobil's and they all list the amount of Phosphorous , interesting.
 
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Mini has reccomended a list of very good oils. What is the problem? I use the 0w-40 M1 in my BMW. It is one of the reccomended oils and it works great. There are others on that list that are just as good.

You say you drive hard? Nascar uses Mobil1 in half their cars.

Pick one and drive.
 
ZDDP is also buggering neccesarry for proper turbo life.

[censored] oil has killed many turbos, Good oil has kept them around longer. I had my parents switch to good Synthetic, 5w30/0w30, and when I pulled the Turbo apart, it had a massive chunk of carbon on the shaft and covering the sealing rings. I looked at the oils. *sigh*

Went reading found out the removal of ZDDP is allowing oil to burn on the shaft and not get cleaned away since the shaft is rather hot on the exhaust side.

Switched them over to a good heavy diesel rated 100% Synthetic 0w40, and the turbo spools faster than ever.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
It doesn't matter where you live. The cold flow benefits of a 0w-XX oil apply to all climates. Read up on the articles posted on BITOG by AE Haas, who runs 0w-20 oils in his Lambos and Ferraris, and also lives in South Florida.


Under the urging of aehaas, I have even run 0W-30 oil in my F355B Ferrari on a race track in 101dF temperatures of texas summers. The oil performed just fine. It is only the oil consumption of 0W-30 that pushed me back to 0W-40 or 5W-40--not the (perceived) thinness of that oil. The pointer over in articles by aehaas to ferrarichat has my data attached near the end.
 
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