Stevie - I am not impressed with the plastic panels not rusting on a new car, but the underside is VERY impressive, given the conditions!
What rustproofing (DIY) is good?
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I've had great results with Noxudol and a Wirth spray gun with extension tubes.
http://www.noxudolusa.com/rust_protection/Rust_Protection.html
http://www.noxudolusa.com/rust_protection/Rust_Protection.html
That's a good price bluestream. I checked out their website and found:
Anti-Rust Oil
Tectyl Rust Preventatives
No Drip Undercoating
Undercoating Oil 202, 302, & 502
Aerosol Undercoating
Do you know the difference between Undercoating Oil and No Drip Undercoating?
Does one creep better than the other?
I'm going to try this stuff because I got the pricing on the Fluid Film and it's way too expensive.
Anti-Rust Oil
Tectyl Rust Preventatives
No Drip Undercoating
Undercoating Oil 202, 302, & 502
Aerosol Undercoating
Do you know the difference between Undercoating Oil and No Drip Undercoating?
Does one creep better than the other?
I'm going to try this stuff because I got the pricing on the Fluid Film and it's way too expensive.
Blue Stream - second quesiton - would you trust the Monarch brand motor oil for your daily driver car? Here's the one I'm looking at:
Fleetguard Heavy Duty SAE 5W-30
It doesn't say if it has the SM rating though.
Fleetguard Heavy Duty SAE 5W-30
It doesn't say if it has the SM rating though.
Here's the thing; Monarch Oil is a local distributor for Castrol, Petro Canada, Valvolene and others. They don't blend any motor oil of their own. I don't know where the undercoating stuff comes from, they may mix it up themselfs. The other umdercoating oils they have will drip and are not going to be as durable. THey all creep, and the no drip stuff creeps just fine. I used to take my car to a local place that does undercoating and I saw the big barrels of undercoating oil and saw who sold it. I went for 10 years to the same guy who charged $60 and took an hour to apply the oil. After watching how they did it, I thought I can do the same or a better job for a fraction of the cost, and bought my own stuff.
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Stevie, your Dodge Caravan looked very good for a twenty-year old vehicle. Did you have body work done or is it all original? If original it is very impressive.
When I bought my truck new in 2006 I thought about Krown but eventualy decided not to apply any rustproofing. Your Dodge Caravan just might change my opinion on rustproofing!
When I bought my truck new in 2006 I thought about Krown but eventualy decided not to apply any rustproofing. Your Dodge Caravan just might change my opinion on rustproofing!
Your a very clever guy Bluestream--investigating their barrel. I would do the same if I had the chance. OK i'll just order the stuff you got.
Question though about access. What do you do about spraying the inside parts of say the wheel wells (back & front) as in the back side that is not visible.
Did you buy some sort of extension for your rustproofing gun, that is like a flexible hose that sprays out in a flower pattern? My rustproofing gun only has a straight spout coming out. No attachments. Can I make them in some way that you can suggest.
Do I have to drill?
Question though about access. What do you do about spraying the inside parts of say the wheel wells (back & front) as in the back side that is not visible.
Did you buy some sort of extension for your rustproofing gun, that is like a flexible hose that sprays out in a flower pattern? My rustproofing gun only has a straight spout coming out. No attachments. Can I make them in some way that you can suggest.
Do I have to drill?
I have never bothered with attachments. I do spray inside the wheel well lip. It's easier with the tires off, so maybe do a rotation when you spray. Keep the gun tip close to the wheel well lip and the spray will stay concentrated in the area you want. When I do a vehicle for the first time I take off the door panels and trunk panels and spray in there real good. After that it needs less. Doors can be sprayed later on by closing the latch and pointing the gun in the latch. I am sure you will be happy with this stuff. It comes in clear and black. Used car places like the black because it covers any rust and makes the bottom of the car look like new when un-suspecting buyers take a quick peek under the vehicle.
I would not drill anywhere unless you have to maybe 2-4 holes may be needed. Lots of rubber plugs you can pull off to get the stuff in with out the drill. you can by the 1/2 inch black plugs at fastner places to plug the holes
I would not drill anywhere unless you have to maybe 2-4 holes may be needed. Lots of rubber plugs you can pull off to get the stuff in with out the drill. you can by the 1/2 inch black plugs at fastner places to plug the holes
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Perfect. But even if there is an access hole in say the wheel well, even if you stick the nozzle in that hole, it's not really spraying the surface behind the panel right?
Or I guess you need to drill a hole from the other side.
Anyways my engine bay is completely empty right now and the engine cross member is taken out, so I want to do this proper while I have all the access. I removed the transmission mounts and I'm replacing the steering rack too, so there's tons of access holes where the fasteners go, that go into the inside of the chassis.
Or I guess you need to drill a hole from the other side.
Anyways my engine bay is completely empty right now and the engine cross member is taken out, so I want to do this proper while I have all the access. I removed the transmission mounts and I'm replacing the steering rack too, so there's tons of access holes where the fasteners go, that go into the inside of the chassis.
Each vehicle is different, and you need to figure out how to access the area you need. Some are easy, and some have sheet metal in between where you want to protect. Rocker panels are rust prone, as are trunks and hoods. Frame rails and suspension parts are good to protect as they will rust away over time, Brake lines and fuel line. It actually makes working on the care very easy, as you seldon get a rusty bolt that won't come out. Rear springs, gas tanks, I coat just about everything...
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Stevie - I am not impressed with the plastic panels not rusting on a new car, but the underside is VERY impressive, given the conditions!
I was showing you the body panels/doors etc. I know the plastic won't rust at the bottom.
Originally Posted By: George7941
Stevie, your Dodge Caravan looked very good for a twenty-year old vehicle. Did you have body work done or is it all original? If original it is very impressive.
When I bought my truck new in 2006 I thought about Krown but eventualy decided not to apply any rustproofing. Your Dodge Caravan just might change my opinion on rustproofing!
All original on the Caravan. The sliding door was touched up due to an accident involving my mom and a post but everywhere else on the van is all original.
Everyone Else concerned with holes:
Drilling holes is no problem and doesn't void the warranty. You drill the hole spray the stuff inside the hole using a long metal tube attachment on the gun, similar to a brake/fuel line so you can reach far inside the panels/roof etc. Then you put a generous amount of grease on the hole and put in a plastic/rubber cap to cover the hole.
In all the vehicles I have had Krown drill holes in and apply their treatment and then cap the holes, none have had any problems with the holes being there.
Stevie - I am not impressed with the plastic panels not rusting on a new car, but the underside is VERY impressive, given the conditions!
I was showing you the body panels/doors etc. I know the plastic won't rust at the bottom.
Originally Posted By: George7941
Stevie, your Dodge Caravan looked very good for a twenty-year old vehicle. Did you have body work done or is it all original? If original it is very impressive.
When I bought my truck new in 2006 I thought about Krown but eventualy decided not to apply any rustproofing. Your Dodge Caravan just might change my opinion on rustproofing!
All original on the Caravan. The sliding door was touched up due to an accident involving my mom and a post but everywhere else on the van is all original.
Everyone Else concerned with holes:
Drilling holes is no problem and doesn't void the warranty. You drill the hole spray the stuff inside the hole using a long metal tube attachment on the gun, similar to a brake/fuel line so you can reach far inside the panels/roof etc. Then you put a generous amount of grease on the hole and put in a plastic/rubber cap to cover the hole.
In all the vehicles I have had Krown drill holes in and apply their treatment and then cap the holes, none have had any problems with the holes being there.
Spot on
There are absolutley no issues with the holes.
I bet that averagedummy Service Specialist at the dealer would not be able to spot the plugs, they look OEM.
I bet that average
The problem with the holes is that they are not needed in most cases. Places like Krown drill a ton of holes and make you think they know what they are doing. A professional can do the job without holes, but it's more work to take off door panels ect. Holes are the cheap and fast way to uundercoat a car. Drilling holes has nothing to do with warranty and voiding it. It ruins the appearance of the car, and the holes are prone to rusting over a 10-20 year time frame. Just go through a junkyard and you can see what those holes like when rust get started.
I agree with you Bluestream to a point. Drilling holes saves tons on money for the consumer. RustCheck "which bty is all we have here in No. Indiana" is going to do my car this week, their cost is $129 U.S., now then if they were going to pull door panels and rear side panels ect., ect. the labor time and cost goes WAY up. I'll take the holes as a trade off to save money, and if I wanted can even remove them every so often to apply extra grease or whatever.
Also I'm 66 yrs old and a 20 year time frame is sorta no consequence.
Also I'm 66 yrs old and a 20 year time frame is sorta no consequence.
I've NEVER seen rust form around one of the holes drilled (and plugged afterwards) for rustproofing. Ever.
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
The problem with the holes is that they are not needed in most cases. Places like Krown drill a ton of holes and make you think they know what they are doing. A professional can do the job without holes, but it's more work to take off door panels ect. Holes are the cheap and fast way to uundercoat a car. Drilling holes has nothing to do with warranty and voiding it. It ruins the appearance of the car, and the holes are prone to rusting over a 10-20 year time frame. Just go through a junkyard and you can see what those holes like when rust get started.
Um, I disagree. In the Caravan you have seen above, which was 20 years old, had no rust around the drilled holes, and certainly would not have survived so long if such things had happened.
Also, who is really looking inside door frames for holes when looking at the "appearance" of your car. I mean this is really comical. It's not like they are drilling holes in the middle of your door facing outwards.
I guess you would have to get it done, or see it done to see the professional job they do, how easy it is and how well it protects the car.
Krown has been around for a long time and I don't think they would have grown as big as they are up here damaging/destroying vehicles. I mean look at what happened with Ziebart early on in their companies history and yet you still hear about it today...
I posted real world proof that their product works and causes no damage or accelerated rust to your vehicle as shown above with the new looking Caravan after it has been on the road for 20 years and 460K KM (287K miles) in harsh Canadian winters with extreme road salt.
Where is your proof that drilling holes and using them to spray causes damage to the vehicle and rusting around the holes, I would love to see pictures.
Just some food for thought.
The problem with the holes is that they are not needed in most cases. Places like Krown drill a ton of holes and make you think they know what they are doing. A professional can do the job without holes, but it's more work to take off door panels ect. Holes are the cheap and fast way to uundercoat a car. Drilling holes has nothing to do with warranty and voiding it. It ruins the appearance of the car, and the holes are prone to rusting over a 10-20 year time frame. Just go through a junkyard and you can see what those holes like when rust get started.
Um, I disagree. In the Caravan you have seen above, which was 20 years old, had no rust around the drilled holes, and certainly would not have survived so long if such things had happened.
Also, who is really looking inside door frames for holes when looking at the "appearance" of your car. I mean this is really comical. It's not like they are drilling holes in the middle of your door facing outwards.
I guess you would have to get it done, or see it done to see the professional job they do, how easy it is and how well it protects the car.
Krown has been around for a long time and I don't think they would have grown as big as they are up here damaging/destroying vehicles. I mean look at what happened with Ziebart early on in their companies history and yet you still hear about it today...
I posted real world proof that their product works and causes no damage or accelerated rust to your vehicle as shown above with the new looking Caravan after it has been on the road for 20 years and 460K KM (287K miles) in harsh Canadian winters with extreme road salt.
Where is your proof that drilling holes and using them to spray causes damage to the vehicle and rusting around the holes, I would love to see pictures.
Just some food for thought.
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Kestas
Staff member
I modified my paint gun to spray rustproofing. The end has a length of brake line bent at an angle which sprays the compound pretty much anywhere you need it.
Firstly, there is no need to drill holes in a door EVER. The rockers is the place where they drill holes like crazy every 18" when this area can be accesed from below or with one hole from above. The holes are put in to make people who know knothing about undecoating think they are getting a good job. How many vehiicles how you undercoated personally? I have done dozens and can tell you few holes are needed. I had a 1980's Mazda that I had done by an undercoating place, and where the holes were drilled rust started there 3-4 years later.
StevieC, sounds like everything you do or own is perfect; this must be nice...
StevieC, sounds like everything you do or own is perfect; this must be nice...
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Bluestream, you have a point that you don't need to drill holes to access doors and rocker panels, but what you are forgetting is that, since you do your own rust proofing, you have all the time in the world to carefully examine the car and find all the access point.
From a buisness point of view, where you have thousands of car models and body styles it would be too labour intensive to follow your process.
The process that Krown and other places use has been proven for years, and at this point you're just trying to find a fault in it just because you don't like the drilling part.
It's not for everyone, and there are mechanics, that do rust proofing on the side, that will not drill holes.
From a buisness point of view, where you have thousands of car models and body styles it would be too labour intensive to follow your process.
The process that Krown and other places use has been proven for years, and at this point you're just trying to find a fault in it just because you don't like the drilling part.
It's not for everyone, and there are mechanics, that do rust proofing on the side, that will not drill holes.
Kestas
Staff member
Bluestream is correct. I've done a dozen cars myself, and I've never drilled any holes. When I sell them used I get praise about the undercoating from mechanics who inspect the vehicle for the buyer.
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