Cold Start Thickness - Dr. Haas

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Originally Posted By: fsskier
Pressure is not flow!!
Someone mentioned the test we used to do on motors to test bearings, chunking up the distributor shaft with an electric drill
(thus spinning the oil pump) and looking at the crankshaft bearings with the pan off. Even with lots of pressure, virtually no oil flows through that .002 bearing clearance when:
the oil is cold and you have good bearings.


Well, it's not exactly designed to flow through the bearing when stationary, it's meant to be fed under pressure while the crank is rotating and letting the bearing rotation pump it through via the wedge that builds up.
Originally Posted By: fsskier


Now, according to the big GM/Mobil/others study that was published in the SAE journal around 1980, the cylinder walls are starved for oil for a long time after startup with thicker oils in cold temperatures. When hot the situation changes from "a drop of oil every once in a while" to a continous shower of oil.
That study was the forerunner of the switch from 10wXXX oils to 5Wxxx oils. Their test results showed that cylinder wall wear was clearly much less with 5wXX oils, then with 10Wxx oils during the first 3 miles of operation - and that the bearings themselves were uneffected either way.


It hasn't been proven that the extra wear is from extra clearance when cold or oil starvation. Yours sounds like a fairly sound argument and I can only assume it's both. I wish I could find that old test where the straight weight killed the rest. If I didn't live in such a mild climate, I wouldn't run a straight 30 but I have confidence that I will have less wear and deposits with it or I wouldn't run it. Only time will tell.

Originally Posted By: fsskier

Those old enough to have done a lot of machine shop work in the 70's will remember that Ford attempted to save money by eliminating the little "squirter" drill hole in the top side of the rods big end. That resulted in thousands of engines being rebuilt in the north by Ford, under warranty due to extreme cylinder wall wear and scoring. (many at about 35,000 miles) This problem did not occur in the south at all!!! Note that those engines would have had plenty of pressure, but little flow, with cold thick oil in wintertime. I personally witnessed a 460 CI Lincoln continental, a 200 CI maverick and a pair of 2300 CC Pintos, all paid for by Ford under warranty. (The undrilled rods were always replaced when doing warranty work)
And, enhancing my paycheck.......



I'm not sure how Ford dropped the ball on this one. I can only assume they used the same rods but without the hole and kept the same side clearances on the rod to crank causing oil starvation. The majority of engines don't have squirters. Again, that's an assumption.
Originally Posted By: fsskier

As you can see, arguments that center around how fast the pressure comes up are meaninless. Only flow counts - for the cylinder walls.


The reason I mention time to pressure is for some of the posters that think oil doesn't flow at all when cold or it takes 20 minutes to get prssure while the engine grinds itself to death. I agree that flow is what counts for the cylinders. Depending on engine design oil can come from the valley area and drain onto the spinning crank. My GN is one of these that dumps oil on the crank from the lifters.

Originally Posted By: fsskier


Some motors, like BUICKGN's 3.8 get lots of flow from the rod bearings due to their tortured crankshaft design and GM I believe always recommended 10Wxx oils in them. And many Turbo models have additional oil sprayed up to cool the piston bottoms, perhaps Buick can give us additional information about the 3.8's peculiar oil requirements.


I wish we had piston oil squrters. Crank, rods, block, and even head castings are all standard NA parts. Only pistons are specific to the turbo models. The crank differed in the way that it was machined with the rod fillets rolled instead of just the mains. I know when setting one of these things up it's a fine balance between cylinder wall starvation and too low of oil pressure when setting up the side clearance on rods. The poor little cast crank, it looks like it would break if you look at it wrong. You can imagine my stress level every time I open it up. It's just a matter of time...
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Originally Posted By: fsskier
Pressure is not flow!!
Someone mentioned the test we used to do on motors to test bearings, chunking up the distributor shaft with an electric drill
(thus spinning the oil pump) and looking at the crankshaft bearings with the pan off. Even with lots of pressure, virtually no oil flows through that .002 bearing clearance when:
the oil is cold and you have good bearings.


Why would it? The crank isn't moving. Oil doesn't flow THROUGH hydrodynamic bearings. It flows TO them.


You beat me to it! Very true.
 
Originally Posted By: ADFD1
Originally Posted By: fsskier
Pressure is not flow!!
Someone mentioned the test we used to do on motors to test bearings, chunking up the distributor shaft with an electric drill
(thus spinning the oil pump) and looking at the crankshaft bearings with the pan off. Even with lots of pressure, virtually no oil flows through that .002 bearing clearance when:
the oil is cold and you have good bearings.

Now, according to the big GM/Mobil/others study that was published in the SAE journal around 1980, the cylinder walls are starved for oil for a long time after startup with thicker oils in cold temperatures. When hot the situation changes from "a drop of oil every once in a while" to a continous shower of oil.
That study was the forerunner of the switch from 10wXXX oils to 5Wxxx oils. Their test results showed that cylinder wall wear was clearly much less with 5wXX oils, then with 10Wxx oils during the first 3 miles of operation - and that the bearings themselves were uneffected either way.

Those old enough to have done a lot of machine shop work in the 70's will remember that Ford attempted to save money by eliminating the little "squirter" drill hole in the top side of the rods big end. That resulted in thousands of engines being rebuilt in the north by Ford, under warranty due to extreme cylinder wall wear and scoring. (many at about 35,000 miles) This problem did not occur in the south at all!!! Note that those engines would have had plenty of pressure, but little flow, with cold thick oil in wintertime. I personally witnessed a 460 CI Lincoln continental, a 200 CI maverick and a pair of 2300 CC Pintos, all paid for by Ford under warranty. (The undrilled rods were always replaced when doing warranty work)
And, enhancing my paycheck.......

As you can see, arguments that center around how fast the pressure comes up are meaninless. Only flow counts - for the cylinder walls.

Some motors, like BUICKGN's 3.8 get lots of flow from the rod bearings due to their tortured crankshaft design and GM I believe always recommended 10Wxx oils in them. And many Turbo models have additional oil sprayed up to cool the piston bottoms, perhaps Buick can give us additional information about the 3.8's peculiar oil requirements.


Which is why I never bought into the idea of oil shooting out of pushrods when an engine was first started means that all is good with parts getting lubricated. Those bearings need thinner oil to get to them faster than thick cold oil.

AD


Pushrods are pressure fed and the oil gets there right away. They are the farthest part from the oil pump. This means something.

Bearings are pressure fed but they use the spinning of the crankshaft to push the oil through them. If they get pressure right away, you can be assured they're fully lubed right away.
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
I think if you don't run the thinnest oil you can your engine will explode, because that's what I read on the internet.


I've read both sides of that argument.
cheers3.gif


AD
 
Jumping back a bit -- would one say staying with a 5w30 all year long be better than jumping between 5w to 10w between summer and winter? I've learned engines like to stick with one oil.
 
Originally Posted By: jigen
Jumping back a bit -- would one say staying with a 5w30 all year long be better than jumping between 5w to 10w between summer and winter? I've learned engines like to stick with one oil.


I would think that jumping back and forth in viscosities of the same brand with the same add pack wouldn't be a problem though I'm not sure if such a thing exists. I've heard that the same brand and type sometimes has a different add pack for a different viscosity. Maybe someone on here knows if that's true or not.
 
Originally Posted By: ADFD1
Which oil will provide better protection in sub zero weather cold start-up, a 0W30 or a straight 30W?
Doesn't matter if the starts are at 40F
 
Originally Posted By: jigen
Jumping back a bit -- would one say staying with a 5w30 all year long be better than jumping between 5w to 10w between summer and winter? I've learned engines like to stick with one oil.
I wouldn't be too sure about that. Oils are more alike than differt. Study up the UOAs they have all the same ingedients,there are only a handful of additive making companies in the world.
 
Originally Posted By: ADFD1
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
I think if you don't run the thinnest oil you can your engine will explode, because that's what I read on the internet.


I've read both sides of that argument.
cheers3.gif


AD
You want to run the proper viscosity oil for the starting temps and then the operating temps. Usually the multivisc oils do the job. If you live where a straight visc oil covers the bases then a straight visc oil will be fine.
 
Originally Posted By: ADFD1
Which is why even at 75*F a 0W-xx or 5W-xx oil will give better start-up protection than a 10W-xx, 15W-xx, or 20W-xx..
27.gif


AD
How so?
 
Originally Posted By: fsskier


Now, according to the big GM/Mobil/others study that was published in the SAE journal around 1980, the cylinder walls are starved for oil for a long time after startup with thicker oils in cold temperatures. When hot the situation changes from "a drop of oil every once in a while" to a continous shower of oil.
That study was the forerunner of the switch from 10wXXX oils to 5Wxxx oils. Their test results showed that cylinder wall wear was clearly much less with 5wXX oils, then with 10Wxx oils during the first 3 miles of operation


This sounds like strong evidence against running straight 30 weight oil.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Art_Vandelay
Originally Posted By: fsskier


Now, according to the big GM/Mobil/others study that was published in the SAE journal around 1980, the cylinder walls are starved for oil for a long time after startup with thicker oils in cold temperatures. When hot the situation changes from "a drop of oil every once in a while" to a continous shower of oil.
That study was the forerunner of the switch from 10wXXX oils to 5Wxxx oils. Their test results showed that cylinder wall wear was clearly much less with 5wXX oils, then with 10Wxx oils during the first 3 miles of operation


This sounds like strong evidence against running straight 30 weight oil.


Do you have any idea how quickly an engine would seize up if the cylinders got a "drop of oil every once in a while". I don't think there is anything to it.
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: Art_Vandelay
Originally Posted By: fsskier


Now, according to the big GM/Mobil/others study that was published in the SAE journal around 1980, the cylinder walls are starved for oil for a long time after startup with thicker oils in cold temperatures. When hot the situation changes from "a drop of oil every once in a while" to a continous shower of oil.
That study was the forerunner of the switch from 10wXXX oils to 5Wxxx oils. Their test results showed that cylinder wall wear was clearly much less with 5wXX oils, then with 10Wxx oils during the first 3 miles of operation


This sounds like strong evidence against running straight 30 weight oil.


Do you have any idea how quickly an engine would seize up if the cylinders got a "drop of oil every once in a while". I don't think there is anything to it.


You think the GM/Mobil study cited is flawed? Dismiss the "drop of oil every once in a while" portion. You still find it without merit?
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: ADFD1
Which is why even at 75*F a 0W-xx or 5W-xx oil will give better start-up protection than a 10W-xx, 15W-xx, or 20W-xx..
27.gif


AD
How so?


Based on Dr. Haas's research, and phone chats with various reps from Pennzoil, Redline, and RP, and Amsoil.
 
Originally Posted By: Art_Vandelay
Originally Posted By: fsskier


Now, according to the big GM/Mobil/others study that was published in the SAE journal around 1980, the cylinder walls are starved for oil for a long time after startup with thicker oils in cold temperatures. When hot the situation changes from "a drop of oil every once in a while" to a continous shower of oil.
That study was the forerunner of the switch from 10wXXX oils to 5Wxxx oils. Their test results showed that cylinder wall wear was clearly much less with 5wXX oils, then with 10Wxx oils during the first 3 miles of operation


This sounds like strong evidence against running straight 30 weight oil.


Not necessarily. SAE 30 just tells us what the oil's like at 100C, it could, in fact, act just as a 0W-30 would, we just don't know it.

Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Do you have any idea how quickly an engine would seize up if the cylinders got a "drop of oil every once in a while". I don't think there is anything to it.


Depends on what their definition of "once in a while" is. That could just mean a drop every few ms. The terminology is far too vague.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: saaber1


You could send a pm to wjdell (sp?) on this forum as I think the vw diesel guys track fe ppm pretty close on tdiclub.com. I am almost certain they would have before and after UOA examples of ppm fe for before and after daily use of an engine oil heater. It may shed some light on the subject but is not definitive for sure.


Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Yeah, but how are you going to differentiate between shortening the warm up event for the engine vs. warm oil? I mean do we know if there was added wear due to cold oil flow ..warm block ..warm oil cold block. How about warm oil warm block. Where was the introduced heat reducing the wear? In terms of additive activation, fast flow, faster thermal expansion of parts?

It could be a tough test to run. I guess you could run two blueprinted engines side by side. Have them reach "steady state" and then switch one to substantially colder oil (let's say 40C and of the same effective viscosity - maybe) run them both for 100 hours and measure the wear.

Those that suggest that hot oil is the reason, can't resolve the fact that the upper pistons should reach additive activation levels quite early with whatever oil is used to contact the cylinder walls. The cylinders themselves should be warm much earlier in the warmup event than the wear curve indicates.

It confounds reasoning.


Edit and in short: If steady state wear could be achieved by just heating the oil, then everyone with an oil warmer should be able to experience virtually zero wear. I don't think this has been proven to be true.


Take a look at the Fe on the three heated samples here compared to the non-heated ones: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1454339#Post1454339
 
Here's a link to a publication that has the graph of cylinder wear vs temperature for 10W, 10W-30, and SAE 30 oils. Scroll to the last page(10). You may have to cut and paste the link. It doesn't work with www added.

http:\\kas.e.thomas.googlepages.com/Mobil.pdf

I have a 1917 Fairbanks Morse industrial engine that has its cylinder and piston lubed by a sight glass drip oiler. The proper rate is 6 drops per second, yes 1 drop every 10 seconds. Granted this is a low rpm engine, but it really doesn't take much to oil the rings and cylinder.

Ed
 
Originally Posted By: saaber1
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan

This is one item that I have not seen nailed down in any absolute manner.


You could send a pm to wjdell (sp?) on this forum as I think the vw diesel guys track fe ppm pretty close on tdiclub.com. I am almost certain they would have before and after UOA examples of ppm fe for before and after daily use of an engine oil heater. It may shed some light on the subject but is not definitive for sure.


WJdell knows his stuff!

I would state a block heater totally lowers wear IMO.

My best UOA ever was with mobil 1 TDT 5w40 in the winter... 17ppm of FE in 10,200 miles. Thats about as low as it gets for a PD motor. This was the first UOA with the block heater. FE numbers were in the 20's before. Keep in mind the engine was full operating temp when started, according to the gauge.
 
Originally Posted By: edhackett
Here's a link to a publication that has the graph of cylinder wear vs temperature for 10W, 10W-30, and SAE 30 oils. Scroll to the last page(10). You may have to cut and paste the link. It doesn't work with www added.

http:\\kas.e.thomas.googlepages.com/Mobil.pdf

I have a 1917 Fairbanks Morse industrial engine that has its cylinder and piston lubed by a sight glass drip oiler. The proper rate is 6 drops per second, yes 1 drop every 10 seconds. Granted this is a low rpm engine, but it really doesn't take much to oil the rings and cylinder.

Ed
Great paper. Thanks for posting Ed.
 
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