GC 0W30 5.7L LS1 Terrible 1st UOA!!!

[ATS-V]

If large "dirt" particles are making into the engine that would explain almost all your wear. I believe SLP air boxs use K&N filters, some times these filter let excess dirt past although I run one and haven't had an issue with dirt.

FWIW: I was never impressed with GC in my engine either.

 

[jigen]

I use a standard Paper filter. Airbox is just to help with flow, the stock box is restrictive. I'll get a new filter tomorrow and tape around the box.

 

[FZ1]

The best quality AF I have seen for my Honda is the OEM. Stock airbox. You ain't gonna catch John Force. Just go for the best filtering for your car.

 

[SL8R]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
The best quality AF I have seen for my Honda is the OEM. Stock airbox. You ain't gonna catch John Force. Just go for the best filtering for your car.


How does the relative quality of your stock Honda airbox and filter compared to aftermarket airboxes/filters available for your Honda have anything whatsoever to do with the airbox and filter options available for an LS-1 camaro?

Cheers,

J

 

[badtlc]

pick an oil and stick with it. It will make getting trends a whole lot easier. Not to mention, all oils don't necessarily play nice together.

 

[jigen]

Thanks. I am sticking to the PP due to availability, price, and good UOAs found on the site.

I will dump this oil at 2k and try again with another UOA at maybe 3k. It will be a summer change and there will be little to no idling.

I still plan on getting a new air filter and looking around for any possible leaks. I really don't think I have any but I will still check.

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: SL8R
Originally Posted By: FZ1
The best quality AF I have seen for my Honda is the OEM. Stock airbox. You ain't gonna catch John Force. Just go for the best filtering for your car.


How does the relative quality of your stock Honda airbox and filter compared to aftermarket airboxes/filters available for your Honda have anything whatsoever to do with the airbox and filter options available for an LS-1 camaro?

The example may be inapplicable, but the message is good: prioritize filtration over "performance".

 

[d00df00d]

Another comment, in case it's applicable: With a heavy solvent like Seafoam, never use it until the very end of your OCI and drain the oil right away after the treatment. Seafoam is supposed to eat varnish and sludge, so you've gotta figure it won't be too kind on your oil.

 

[jigen]

I never put the seafoam in my oil but through the vacuum hose. I never trusted seafoam in the oil.

 

[Norm Olt]

If they come from the factory with a 10W-30 spec why go 0W-30?

Just use a synthetic 10W-30 that meets the factory spec.

 

[jigen]

Originally Posted By: Norm Olt
If they come from the factory with a 10W-30 spec why go 0W-30?

Just use a synthetic 10W-30 that meets the factory spec.


Only went 0W30 because of the good things I heard about German Castrol.

 

[jigen]

So I took pics of my air filter and fitment. I never thought it fit bad or bad enough to make any difference. Let me know what you think.

 

[JoeFromPA]

Jigen,

Your silicon is barely high enough to indicate any concern, I thinkt he focus on it is overblown. If you are concerned, seal it up better.

Your results are fine IMHO. Seafoam absorbed through a vaccum hose goes where? All over the engine, that's where. You can't interpret a UOA where seafoam was used.

Do a couple of cycles of THE SAME OIL...i.e. the same synthetic. And then do a UOA following proper sampling techniques (drive 20-25 minutes beforehand, don't idle, take sample from middle of drain while still hot).

Your results will be fine.

You've got a rock solid engine on your hands. Also, Dyson is worth the money....if you need him. You don't.

Joe

P.s. Don't use any more additives. Seafoam wasn't a bad idea, but you've done it now and you don't need anything else than good filtration and a quality synthetic.

 

[steve20]

agreed-put the paper filter back in-you ptrobably have the SLP 'claw'-some like the look, but it ofers no perceptable performance gain-may sound better, but no perceptable performance increase with this filter.

I kind of like 5-30's in my LSX's-the LT1 likes it as well


Steve

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: JoeFromPA
Dyson is worth the money....if you need him. You don't.

Technically, you're right. The problem is, you can't possibly know if you need him until you either use him or have a very serious problem.

 

[JoeFromPA]

doodfood - IMHO, you need Dyson if:

1. You've got a custom application and you want assurance that your oil is holding up.
2. You've got an engine known for oil destruction (RS4) and you want to find what's best for long life.
3. You only want the best in your oil analysis.
4. You get a very troubling UOA that doesn't have seriously confounding factors.

In this case, the OP has a serious outside influencer (seafoam). He should trend a bit without that before dropping $100 on dyson. Besides which, a dyson analysis wouldn't help much right now because he needs to flush the residual out.

Just my .02

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted By: Norm Olt
If they come from the factory with a 10W-30 spec why go 0W-30?



Actually the 2002 LS1 f-bodies got Mobil 1 5w30 as their factory fill. This wasn't widely publicized though, and it was the only year that the F-body LS1 got that oil, before that they just got conventional 5w30.

 

[Mr_Incredible]

I idle my Z28 like crazy when it starts getting cold, before I put it up for the winter, and I don't see numbers like that. My UOAs are nice and boring.

Silicon with a K&N (w/stock lid) for mine was about 8ppm. Stock paper filter was about that, too. My K&N came with a foam insulation strip that went into the channel around the lid to really tighten up the fit. Still there even though the K&N is no longer in use. If you have the original lid you might want to put it back on during your quest to find out what's going on.

Seafoam in the vacuum line means seafoam and junk in the oil, eventually. That's where I'd point my finger.

+1 on dump the oil and try another short interval or two before another UOA, keeping stuff outta your oil & gas in the meantime.

 

[ArrestMeRedZ]

Keep the SLP lid if it seals. Over half of the stock airboxes I've looked at have a big leak where the lid connects to the bellows. They might not come from the factory that way, the first time someone checks the air filter without removing the hose clamp, they pull out the seal.

And Patman is right about the factory fill.

 

[Gary Allan]

Just go over all the plumbing. That includes the vent tube and PCV hose. If you just sucked on very minor pebble in there ....

..but given the total silicon (as was mentioned) it doesn't seem like it would cause all that havoc you've got going on. I mean, you can suck in some grit, but if it was an ongoing suction leak ..it should show more, imo. Are you sure you didn't just changed out the air box in a high wind situation or bounced some random grit around in the box swapping process?

Keep it tidy. Full surgical gear and positive filtered air source whenever you open up the intake end of things

I've never seen a Seafoam event do this to any UOA ..but there's always a first time.

Eliminate as many variables as you can out of the process. It will make isolating stuff much easier.