1997 Camaro Z28 5.7L 134k miles, First UOA !!

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I just bought the car 1997 Camaro Z28 5.7L 134k miles, automatic, it bassicly stock only K&N cold air system was install from preview owner. from dealer and drove a 600 miles home, car is 134k miles and I dont know what weight oil and wat kind of oil the dealer put in, but it look dark but clean.


where Can I find how much gas get into oil and any coolant in oil at at ?? BTW Im thinking doing Auto-rx, do you guys think its a good ideal ? thanks
 
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This looks like a good report, Ken. How many miles on this oil?

Your antifreeze is zero, no worries there. And your fuel was less than 1/4 of the average, so again no worries.
 
I dont know what kind of oil and what weight, I bought this car from dealer and drove 600 miles back to my home. My currently fill is 10w/30 Maxlife with Over size Mobil 1 filter. Should I do auto-rx ?
 
It's probably a generic oil with medium levels of anti-wear ingredients such as Zinc and Phosphorus.
 
Originally Posted By: killagt
what is add pack ?


Additive packs are what the oil companies add to the base oil to give it the anti-wear properties, etc.

You're going to need to learn about searching. This is from the front page of Bitog, on the left under "What is Oil Analysis"....

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Metal Tests
Some of the metals tested for and usually included in analysis of an oil sample and their potential sources are:


Aluminum (Al): Thrust washers, bearings and pistons are made of this metal. High readings can be from piston skirt scuffing, excessive ring groove wear, broken thrust washers, etc.
Boron, Magnesium, Calcium, Barium, Phosphorous, and Zinc: These metals are normally from the lubricating oil additive package. They involve detergents, dispersants, extreme-pressure additives, etc.
Chromium (CR): Normally associated with piston rings. High levels can be caused by dirt coming through the air intake or broken rings.
Copper (CU), Tin: These metals are normally from bearings or bushings and valve guides. Oil coolers also can contribute to copper readings along with some oil additives. In a new engine these results will normally be high during break-in, but will decline in a few hundred hours.
Iron (Fe): This can come from many places in the engine such as liners, camshafts, crankshaft, valve train, timing gears, etc.
Lead (Pb): Use of regular gasoline will cause very high test results. Also associated with bearing wear, but fuel source (leaded gasoline) and sampling contamination (use of galvanized containers for sampling) are critical in interpreting this metal.
Silicon (Si): High readings generally indicate dirt or fine sand contamination from a leaking air intake system. This would act as an abrasive, causing excessive wear. Silicon is also used as a anti-foam agent in some oils.
Sodium (Na): High readings of this metal normally are associated with a coolant leak, but can be from an oil additive package.
 
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: killagt
what is add pack ?


Additive packs are what the oil companies add to the base oil to give it the anti-wear properties, etc.

You're going to need to learn about searching. This is from the front page of Bitog, on the left under "What is Oil Analysis"....

=================================================================
thanks
Metal Tests
Some of the metals tested for and usually included in analysis of an oil sample and their potential sources are:


Aluminum (Al): Thrust washers, bearings and pistons are made of this metal. High readings can be from piston skirt scuffing, excessive ring groove wear, broken thrust washers, etc.
Boron, Magnesium, Calcium, Barium, Phosphorous, and Zinc: These metals are normally from the lubricating oil additive package. They involve detergents, dispersants, extreme-pressure additives, etc.
Chromium (CR): Normally associated with piston rings. High levels can be caused by dirt coming through the air intake or broken rings.
Copper (CU), Tin: These metals are normally from bearings or bushings and valve guides. Oil coolers also can contribute to copper readings along with some oil additives. In a new engine these results will normally be high during break-in, but will decline in a few hundred hours.
Iron (Fe): This can come from many places in the engine such as liners, camshafts, crankshaft, valve train, timing gears, etc.
Lead (Pb): Use of regular gasoline will cause very high test results. Also associated with bearing wear, but fuel source (leaded gasoline) and sampling contamination (use of galvanized containers for sampling) are critical in interpreting this metal.
Silicon (Si): High readings generally indicate dirt or fine sand contamination from a leaking air intake system. This would act as an abrasive, causing excessive wear. Silicon is also used as a anti-foam agent in some oils.
Sodium (Na): High readings of this metal normally are associated with a coolant leak, but can be from an oil additive package.
 
Don't waist your money on Auto-rx is not needed,them engines run clean. Run M1's 5w30HM when it hits the stores and don't look back....




Originally Posted By: Buffman
OMG look at the silicon with the K&N Air Filter, It's Horrendous. Ohh wait it's right at universal averages. :)

yep the ol stone catcher's doing it's job.
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^^.. Maybe.. They do leave pretty dirty UOAs. However my 150K oil pan when I changed it (due to leaky gasket) was spotless.
 
Originally Posted By: Buffman
^^.. Maybe.. They do leave pretty dirty UOAs. However my 150K oil pan when I changed it (due to leaky gasket) was spotless.

most damage is going to be in your cylinders(wear,)not oil.
 
well I guess when I ever have to tear my 175K+ LT1 down, I'll surely be looking at cylinder wall wear see how bad the poor S&B air filter messed them up. Although I admit, I'm now running an Amsoil EAA filter on my setup. Some odd reason even with my driving habits, increased fuel economy!
 
change the fuel filter, and PCV it's easy. Fram is good enough for those elements. and run some Redline SI-1 fuel inj cleaner.

Also, the MAF wires can benefit from electronic parts cleaner spray, and the intake can be helped w/ a Throttle body cleaner spray. also, disconnect the battery and take apart the wire junction under the red plastic oval. take some 600 sandpaper and sand the contacts clean and put it back.

yes, i have the same car have fun
 
bad new, my engine is slug so bad, i mean it hard and stick to all the part on the engine, it look like dirt but hard dirt, how come UOA come out good ? im doing full treatment on auto-rx using sludge applican. hope it remove most of it.
 
Originally Posted By: killagt
im doing full treatment on auto-rx using sludge applican. hope it remove most of it.


good, i was going to suggest that too but refrained. i also put some strong neo magnets on the oilpan near the drain plug and removed them before draining. got em on ebay
 
Originally Posted By: [RT
ProjUltraZ]
Originally Posted By: killagt
im doing full treatment on auto-rx using sludge applican. hope it remove most of it.


good, i was going to suggest that too but refrained. i also put some strong neo magnets on the oilpan near the drain plug and removed them before draining. got em on ebay


my oil pan drain plug already had magnet on it.
 
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