02-06 camry fuel filter
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Is there a replacement interval for it? Mom's Camry is 5 yrs old with 65k miles and I always thought it was in tank or somewhere out of reach to the normal person.
I changed one recently on a friend's '01 Camry, and it was located right underneath the air filter box. Once you remove the upper air box assembly, it was an easy replacement. Pull the hoses, remove the two bolts that support it and it was out.
According to AutoZone it's the same for all '01-'06 model years. Hope this helps.
According to AutoZone it's the same for all '01-'06 model years. Hope this helps.
The instructions from Autozone kind of sucks. Of course it's free. I'm going to take a look in the Haynes manual when I go home next weekend. Hopefully it is more detailed and has a decent picture. If it's easy enough then I will have one more thing to play with.
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
I changed one recently on a friend's '01 Camry, and it was located right underneath the air filter box. Once you remove the upper air box assembly, it was an easy replacement. Pull the hoses, remove the two bolts that support it and it was out.
According to AutoZone it's the same for all '01-'06 model years. Hope this helps.
autozone is wrong. it is definitely in the fuel tank
I changed one recently on a friend's '01 Camry, and it was located right underneath the air filter box. Once you remove the upper air box assembly, it was an easy replacement. Pull the hoses, remove the two bolts that support it and it was out.
According to AutoZone it's the same for all '01-'06 model years. Hope this helps.
autozone is wrong. it is definitely in the fuel tank
It's a bit involved to change the fuel filter on a 05-06 camry
Remove the rear seat cushion.
Remove the rear floor service hole cover, and disconnect the fuel pump connector.
Disconnect the fuel pump tube sub assembly
A-Remove the fuel tank vent tube set plate by removing the 8 bolts (torque 31 inch. lbf) and fuel tank vent tube set plate.
B-Remove the fuel suction tube assembly (Fuel Suction Plate, Sub–assembly, Fuel Filter Assembly, Fuel Pump, Fuel Pump Filter, Clip, Cushion Rubber, Fuel Suction Support No.2).
(a) Remove the fuel suction support #2 by using a screwdriver and disconnecting the snap claws from the claws from the claw holes and removing the fuel suction support
(b) Remove the fuel pump cushion rubber
(c) Remove the fuel pressure regulator assembly
(d) Remove the fuel pump assembly with filter by disconnecting the fuel pump connector from the fuel pump and pulling out the fuel filter and fuel pump assembly
(e) Finally remove the fuel pump filter
Remove the rear seat cushion.
Remove the rear floor service hole cover, and disconnect the fuel pump connector.
Disconnect the fuel pump tube sub assembly
A-Remove the fuel tank vent tube set plate by removing the 8 bolts (torque 31 inch. lbf) and fuel tank vent tube set plate.
B-Remove the fuel suction tube assembly (Fuel Suction Plate, Sub–assembly, Fuel Filter Assembly, Fuel Pump, Fuel Pump Filter, Clip, Cushion Rubber, Fuel Suction Support No.2).
(a) Remove the fuel suction support #2 by using a screwdriver and disconnecting the snap claws from the claws from the claw holes and removing the fuel suction support
(b) Remove the fuel pump cushion rubber
(c) Remove the fuel pressure regulator assembly
(d) Remove the fuel pump assembly with filter by disconnecting the fuel pump connector from the fuel pump and pulling out the fuel filter and fuel pump assembly
(e) Finally remove the fuel pump filter
Some models have one in the tank and also one under the master cylinder accessible by removing the airbox as someone stated.
Good source for accurate procedures is alldata- usually free at your local public library.
Good source for accurate procedures is alldata- usually free at your local public library.
I went exploring beneath the back seat this morning - great for a Sunday morning. found lots of roach poo. and the service hole. it does not just pop off or unscrew. it is semi-glued by black goop, i worked it loose with a screwdriver. but at least the connectors looked like they should. there was a lot of dust on the top of the assembly underneath the access port. I guess when the time comes, i will need to find the appropriate black goop (which i assume acts as both a sealant to prevent dirt from entering beneath the seat and mild adhesive to the plate covering the port). any ideas? you can see some of the black goopy strings in the photo
Originally Posted By: ChiTDI
Some models have one in the tank and also one under the master cylinder accessible by removing the airbox as someone stated.
Good source for accurate procedures is alldata- usually free at your local public library.
i did notice a squarish (about 2" sq) box shape (maybe 8" long?) at this location. relatively easy access on RHD models - is this another filter? a local filter supplier only makes mention of the one in the tank.
Some models have one in the tank and also one under the master cylinder accessible by removing the airbox as someone stated.
Good source for accurate procedures is alldata- usually free at your local public library.
i did notice a squarish (about 2" sq) box shape (maybe 8" long?) at this location. relatively easy access on RHD models - is this another filter? a local filter supplier only makes mention of the one in the tank.
The black goopy strings in the photo is probably the butyl tape. When you need to to install the rear floor service hole cover, you need to use some kind of butyl tape. Make sure to use it, that's what Toyota wants you to use to seal that area.
I did google butyl tape and this is what I did find. "Butyl is a common term used for the isobutylene isoprene elastomer. As the name implies, butyl is comprised of isobutylene with a small amount of isoprene. It is known for its excellent resistance to water, steam, alkalis, and oxygenated solvents. Another outstanding characteristic is low gas permeation. Butyl is capable of providing high energy absorption (dampening) and good hot tear strength. Good resistances to heat, abrasion, oxygen, ozone"
I did google butyl tape and this is what I did find. "Butyl is a common term used for the isobutylene isoprene elastomer. As the name implies, butyl is comprised of isobutylene with a small amount of isoprene. It is known for its excellent resistance to water, steam, alkalis, and oxygenated solvents. Another outstanding characteristic is low gas permeation. Butyl is capable of providing high energy absorption (dampening) and good hot tear strength. Good resistances to heat, abrasion, oxygen, ozone"
Unless you get some really nasty gas, you don't need to service the fuel filter. If you decide to get it done make sure to take pictures to share with us. There are two things that are not non–reusable parts, O–ring that connects to the fuel pressure regulator (apply gassoline to the O-ring before connecting the new O-ring). The other non reusable part is the clip that connects to the fuel pump filter.
thanks for that billy.
Yeah I am wondering whether it is worth doing. it is a scheduled maintenance item so I am thinking I should, but I always buy from "reputable" stations like BP and caltex/chevron.
On the other hand what would the consequences be of waiting for the fuel filter to clog and experiencing some of the symptoms that go with it?
curse this stupid in-tank business
Yeah I am wondering whether it is worth doing. it is a scheduled maintenance item so I am thinking I should, but I always buy from "reputable" stations like BP and caltex/chevron.
On the other hand what would the consequences be of waiting for the fuel filter to clog and experiencing some of the symptoms that go with it?
curse this stupid in-tank business
Looking at the exploded view of the fuel pump assembly. You can see that the fuel pump and the fuel pressure regulator go in the fuel filter housing. By letting the fuel filter fail, you may end up having to replace the whole assembly instead of the fuel filter by itself.
The other thing you need to consider before changing the fuel filter, is the risk of damaging the fuel pump filter and bending the arm of the sender gage when you pull out the fuel suction tube assembly with the pump and the gage from the fuel tank. It’s a decision you have to make for yourself. Either wait for a failure or change the whole assembly around 150k-200k miles. it would be fairly easy to do, just have the whole assembly handy and do a swap if you have a problem.
The other thing you need to consider before changing the fuel filter, is the risk of damaging the fuel pump filter and bending the arm of the sender gage when you pull out the fuel suction tube assembly with the pump and the gage from the fuel tank. It’s a decision you have to make for yourself. Either wait for a failure or change the whole assembly around 150k-200k miles. it would be fairly easy to do, just have the whole assembly handy and do a swap if you have a problem.
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