wheel stud replacement on vehicle with drum brakes

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If it's like other FWD cars with rear drums, the hub bolts on to the beam axle or knuckle and you MAY be able to get to the mounting face with the drum off.

Remove the drum and take a look. You will see if you can get to the hub where the studs are pressed in.

There is a tool to press out a broken stud. If you can work in there, then it's not too bad.

If it's anything like wifey's Camry, the hub assembly can be removed by removing the 4 bolts that hold it in place and you can work on it off the car.

However, I suspect you can get the special tool in there while it's still on the car, and installing the new one is as simple as feeding it through the back and using a lug nut with the flat face of that nut facing towards the hub to draw the stud through that hub face.

http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/wheel_stud_repl.htm

That shows them driving out the old stud by using a lug nut on the stud to hammer it out. I suppose that would work as well, just buy a lug nut AND a stud in case you booger up the nut.
 
Originally Posted By: javacontour
Even more car specific

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/f-q-1993-2001/79181-broken-stud-replace-em-yourself.html


Thanks for the link!

For drum brake)
1. Lift the car and put it on jack stands. Chuck the wheel on the opposite end of the car. Remove the wheel.
2. Remove the drum (if it is stuck, whack it on the front outer edge with your sledge)
3. Sledge meets stud.
4. Replace stud.
5. Install the drum and wheel, torque to spec.

seems simple and straightforward
 
Originally Posted By: Cutehumor
4. Replace stud.


Wouldn't you need an impact wrench for this? I've been told that you need to use a few washers, a lug nut and an impact to "pull" the stud into position. Is there a way of doing this without the assistance of an impact?
 
Critic, it goes real easy, under 100 ft/lbs. I just tug it through with a pliers then carefully reassemble, put the wheel on, and sock it down to spec. This rubs the usual acorn face of the lugnut. Recheck torque a couple drive cycles later. (Easy to find: only shiny one in there)

OP, usually if you rotate the hub assembly you'll find a void spot in the brake hardware where you can just barely finagle a new stud up in!

The hardest part of this job is whacking the old drum off. Butter its mounting flange with antisieze so it comes off easier next time.
 
I'd use lube on the stud splines. And see if you can mate them to the old grooves in the hub.
Also, chill the stud in the freezer, and warm up the hub before assembly.
Then you can most likely do it by hand.
Make sure it is seated all the way - otherwise it will loosen as you drive.
 
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