as mentioned by several posters earlier, two stroke oil makes a remarkably effective fuel stabilizer. Literally lasting for years. I've had excellent luck with it personally. That being said, I do add sta-bil to some of my 4-stroke machines like my wood chipper, which might get used once a year if its lucky.
Stabil. whats in it???
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Originally Posted By: Winn
It seems that many people here really like the Stabil product, but I've also read elsewhere (other hobby related forums) that are plenty of people whodon't like it and believe that (over time) it can actually end up making fuel worse ...
Still not really sure what to think about the stuff or who to believe about it.
I believe in fuel stabilizer as a good thing, but I'm not sure Stabil is so great at it.
I had a snowthrower with a brand new carb gunk up over the summer. My OPE fuel always has Stabil in it all of the time. I also ran this unit dry, and drained the carb bowl at the end of last season. The needles got gunked up with fuel deposits, I had to disassemble and clean it up despite the Sta-bil. On the plus side, they were very soft and this wasn't difficult. The fuel used was ethanol-free (according to the sticker) Shell V-Power 91.
I'm giving Amsoil AST a shot now. Until now I haven't had a carb problem in my OPE based on my storage routine. My Honda mower carb looks like it was just taken out of the box.
It seems that many people here really like the Stabil product, but I've also read elsewhere (other hobby related forums) that are plenty of people whodon't like it and believe that (over time) it can actually end up making fuel worse ...
Still not really sure what to think about the stuff or who to believe about it.
I believe in fuel stabilizer as a good thing, but I'm not sure Stabil is so great at it.
I had a snowthrower with a brand new carb gunk up over the summer. My OPE fuel always has Stabil in it all of the time. I also ran this unit dry, and drained the carb bowl at the end of last season. The needles got gunked up with fuel deposits, I had to disassemble and clean it up despite the Sta-bil. On the plus side, they were very soft and this wasn't difficult. The fuel used was ethanol-free (according to the sticker) Shell V-Power 91.
I'm giving Amsoil AST a shot now. Until now I haven't had a carb problem in my OPE based on my storage routine. My Honda mower carb looks like it was just taken out of the box.
Craig, are you saying that use of Stabil all the time as a fuel additive may have caused the deposit?
Or, that the Stabil didn't help if there happened to be some residual fuel left over in the system?
Or, that the Stabil didn't help if there happened to be some residual fuel left over in the system?
Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Originally Posted By: Winn
It seems that many people here really like the Stabil product, but I've also read elsewhere (other hobby related forums) that there are plenty of people who don't like it and believe that (over time) it can actually end up making fuel worse ...
Still not really sure what to think about the stuff or who to believe about it.
I believe in fuel stabilizer as a good thing, but I'm not sure Stabil is so great at it...
Agreed ... Exactly ...
And in fact, that's my "question" as well ...
If there are better products, then I'd like to know which is actually BEST at fuel stabilization.
Originally Posted By: Winn
It seems that many people here really like the Stabil product, but I've also read elsewhere (other hobby related forums) that there are plenty of people who don't like it and believe that (over time) it can actually end up making fuel worse ...
Still not really sure what to think about the stuff or who to believe about it.
I believe in fuel stabilizer as a good thing, but I'm not sure Stabil is so great at it...
Agreed ... Exactly ...
And in fact, that's my "question" as well ...
If there are better products, then I'd like to know which is actually BEST at fuel stabilization.
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Originally Posted By: Winn
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
kingrob nailed it!
I use Stabil along with MMO and haven't had any issues. MMO coats the combustion chamber internals so nothing sticks or rusts up, Stabil helps keep the gas fresh. Cheap insurance for longer term storage where draining the gas isn't practical.
JMO,
Frank d
Curious to know, what sort of ratios are you using (ounces per gallon) of each product when you are using them in combination ?
I use the suggested dose from the label, and MMO at about 200:1 for long term storage. I also use MMO as a fogging oil, never had any problems with anything gumming up. I just put the mower away for winter yesterday using Stabil and MMO. Always starts right up in the spring w/o issue. Same for my power-washer which on occasion is stored for close to 2 years at a time.
Frank D
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
kingrob nailed it!
I use Stabil along with MMO and haven't had any issues. MMO coats the combustion chamber internals so nothing sticks or rusts up, Stabil helps keep the gas fresh. Cheap insurance for longer term storage where draining the gas isn't practical.
JMO,
Frank d
Curious to know, what sort of ratios are you using (ounces per gallon) of each product when you are using them in combination ?
I use the suggested dose from the label, and MMO at about 200:1 for long term storage. I also use MMO as a fogging oil, never had any problems with anything gumming up. I just put the mower away for winter yesterday using Stabil and MMO. Always starts right up in the spring w/o issue. Same for my power-washer which on occasion is stored for close to 2 years at a time.
Frank D
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Craig, are you saying that use of Stabil all the time as a fuel additive may have caused the deposit?
Or, that the Stabil didn't help if there happened to be some residual fuel left over in the system?
The second one
The Sta-bil didn't seem to prevent a "problem" in six months. Of course it might have been the reason the deposits were soft instead of really crusty...
Note this is OPE only, not for road vehicles.
Craig, are you saying that use of Stabil all the time as a fuel additive may have caused the deposit?
Or, that the Stabil didn't help if there happened to be some residual fuel left over in the system?
The second one
The Sta-bil didn't seem to prevent a "problem" in six months. Of course it might have been the reason the deposits were soft instead of really crusty...Note this is OPE only, not for road vehicles.
I though from previous threads years ago that MMO had evergreen oil in it.
uhhhhh it's wintergreen oil- so you folks do not confuse it with transmission fluid
Why does Stabil smell like Iodine in the exhaust-----try it, you'll see--- it really does
Steve
Why does Stabil smell like Iodine in the exhaust-----try it, you'll see--- it really does
Steve
Originally Posted By: steve20
...
Why does Stabil smell like Iodine in the exhaust-----try it, you'll see--- it really does
Steve
It's preventing engine "infections"
Drew
...
Why does Stabil smell like Iodine in the exhaust-----try it, you'll see--- it really does
Steve
It's preventing engine "infections"
Drew
that is the kind of response I would expect from someone on LI---just kidding dude, I spent a lot of time in Huntington and Mattituck, on the east end
Steve
Steve
Originally Posted By: DesertDually
as mentioned by several posters earlier, two stroke oil makes a remarkably effective fuel stabilizer. Literally lasting for years. I've had excellent luck with it personally.
No it doesn't.
Two stroke oil has absolutely no fuel stabilisation qualities unless it has a fuel stabiliser added to it (some two stroke oils have a stabiliser added and it usually says so on the bottle)
None of the premium two stroke oils I know of have any fuel stabilisation qualities at all, and professional power equipment manufacturers generally recommend dumping the fuel/oil mix about six-eight weeks after it's been mixed in warm weather.
as mentioned by several posters earlier, two stroke oil makes a remarkably effective fuel stabilizer. Literally lasting for years. I've had excellent luck with it personally.
No it doesn't.
Two stroke oil has absolutely no fuel stabilisation qualities unless it has a fuel stabiliser added to it (some two stroke oils have a stabiliser added and it usually says so on the bottle)
None of the premium two stroke oils I know of have any fuel stabilisation qualities at all, and professional power equipment manufacturers generally recommend dumping the fuel/oil mix about six-eight weeks after it's been mixed in warm weather.
Both MMO and Stabil contain a phenolic antixidant. In MMO it is really, I think, oil of wintergreen. In Stabil, it is an analog of BHT, a hindered phenol. Phenolics like to react with O2 to form quinones, a very highly colored substance. As such, they are sacrificial anti-oxidants. They get used up. I always use Stabil in gas that will be in a can for over 4 weeks and never have a problem.
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
One of the components are antioxidants or oxidation inhibitors (Protective Additive): aromatic amines such as organic tolutriazoles, thiadiazoles, diphenylamines and the like.
Thanks a big bundle, MolaKule, for posting these as I am always wanting to know about chemical compounds. You are truly a wealth of information. Isn't Benadryl a diphenylamine? Probably not a good idea to throw some pills in the tank
One of the components are antioxidants or oxidation inhibitors (Protective Additive): aromatic amines such as organic tolutriazoles, thiadiazoles, diphenylamines and the like.
Thanks a big bundle, MolaKule, for posting these as I am always wanting to know about chemical compounds. You are truly a wealth of information. Isn't Benadryl a diphenylamine? Probably not a good idea to throw some pills in the tank
What about using Sta-bil in combination with Seafoam ... ?
I had a rep from Seafoam tell me that using both products - together - essentially yields a more "thorough" or "complete" or "broader" form of protection as each product works from a somewhat different 'angle', as it were ...
And that using them together can provide a "synergistically" better form of stabilization.
Hope that makes sense (but don't "quote" me on it)
Anyway ... Any input / insights on that "theory" ???
I had a rep from Seafoam tell me that using both products - together - essentially yields a more "thorough" or "complete" or "broader" form of protection as each product works from a somewhat different 'angle', as it were ...
And that using them together can provide a "synergistically" better form of stabilization.
Hope that makes sense (but don't "quote" me on it)
Anyway ... Any input / insights on that "theory" ???
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FWIW Target has a lil larger Stabil bottle with a single neck, that double neck bottle is tough for a car gas neck, unless you use a funnel too...IMHO
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: SLJ2137694
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Stuff that seperates your hard earned $$$ for something not needed.
How exactly is it not needed?
How is it needed? I have as previously mentioned I never have had any problem with gas in stored vehicles. Why is it exactly needed? Yesterday I used my leaf blower that has been waiting to be used since last fall .It started after 3 pulls and I ran through 2 full tanks of stored gas .No problems and I have doing that for the 6 years I have owned the blower. What exactly would I have gotten for the money spent on the stabil?
Because most fuels today dont last much past a month or two before they start to break down.The old day`s with leaded fuel lasting around 6 mos. on their own,with no additive are gone.
Originally Posted By: SLJ2137694
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Stuff that seperates your hard earned $$$ for something not needed.
How exactly is it not needed?
How is it needed? I have as previously mentioned I never have had any problem with gas in stored vehicles. Why is it exactly needed? Yesterday I used my leaf blower that has been waiting to be used since last fall .It started after 3 pulls and I ran through 2 full tanks of stored gas .No problems and I have doing that for the 6 years I have owned the blower. What exactly would I have gotten for the money spent on the stabil?
Because most fuels today dont last much past a month or two before they start to break down.The old day`s with leaded fuel lasting around 6 mos. on their own,with no additive are gone.
MolaKule
Staff member
Quote:
Isn't Benadryl a diphenylamine?
Ita a type of amine.
However, it will put your engine to sleep.
Isn't Benadryl a diphenylamine?
Ita a type of amine.
However, it will put your engine to sleep.
Originally Posted By: Winn
What about using Sta-bil in combination with Seafoam ... ?
So I stumbled across some similar questions that were being asked on another site:
Quote:
Use of Sta-Bil and/or Seafoam gas stabilizers/cleaners ...
I have looked online for website information on these two products and then on many forums, both here and elsewhere, including those for lawnmowers, cars, motorcycles, and boating.
There is almost 100% universal support for Sta-Bil and Seafoam, but you have people who like one or the other better, maybe a few who like both. It depends on their experience and which product they came by first.
1) One poster said his mechanic advised him not to use Sta-Bil in cold weather since it doesn't mix well with the gas. The poster has a new Ariens 11528DLE that was experiencing starting/operating problems. He was told the Sta-Bil was the problem since it didn't mix well with the gas and was causing gumming in the carburetor. He was advised to use Seafoam. The guy then drained the gas from his snow blower and put new gas in with Seafoam. He said that did the trick. That was the only comment out of probably nearly 200 I have read saying anything bad about Sta-Bil. Is there any truth to this comment that Sta-Bil doesn't do well in cold weather? By the way, the Sta-Bil MSDS sheet says it is 95% natpha (you know, white gas/starter fluid/mineral spirits, etc. type of fuel distillate), and 5% "proprietary ingredients".
2) One of the ingredients in Seafoam (according to their MSDS sheet) is IPA (isopropyl alcohol) to help suspend water. A few posts say that Seafoam actually contains a small portion of water, not mentioned in the MSDS since its just water. What would Seafoam be accomplishing by having water in their formula, just to turn around and put in IPA to counteract it? Crazy. Is this even true that Seafoam has water in it? Seafoam's MSDS sheet says it is 40-60% "pale oil", 25-35% natpha, and 10-20% IPA. So what's the real deal with Seafoam? Better than Sta-Bil, or is this just an endless debate of who likes what? What is "pale oil?"
3) Some posters say follow your machine's manual by running the gas out of your machine and draining the carburetor. Some say to not do that as you may encourage moisture condensation. Others say go ahead and use your fuel stabilizer, run the machine for a few minutes to get the mixture into the carburetor and the rest of the system, and then just leave the mix in the tank during storage. What is the best way?
4) I'd like to hear some reliable opinions from some mechanics out there who can give me some factual opinions about these two products that everyone, it seems, thinks are the greatest things to use.
Thanks for the help.
http://www.abbysguide.com/ope/discussions/31458-0-1.html
But I'm still wondering if anyone HERE has any thoughts on using the two together ...
Originally Posted By: Winn
I had a rep ... tell me that using both products - together - essentially yields a more "thorough" or "complete" or "broader" form of protection as each product works from a somewhat different 'angle', as it were ...
And that using them together can provide a "synergistically" better form of stabilization ...
Anyway ... Any input / insights on that "theory" ???
{edited}
Anyone ?
What about using Sta-bil in combination with Seafoam ... ?
So I stumbled across some similar questions that were being asked on another site:
Quote:
Use of Sta-Bil and/or Seafoam gas stabilizers/cleaners ...
I have looked online for website information on these two products and then on many forums, both here and elsewhere, including those for lawnmowers, cars, motorcycles, and boating.
There is almost 100% universal support for Sta-Bil and Seafoam, but you have people who like one or the other better, maybe a few who like both. It depends on their experience and which product they came by first.
1) One poster said his mechanic advised him not to use Sta-Bil in cold weather since it doesn't mix well with the gas. The poster has a new Ariens 11528DLE that was experiencing starting/operating problems. He was told the Sta-Bil was the problem since it didn't mix well with the gas and was causing gumming in the carburetor. He was advised to use Seafoam. The guy then drained the gas from his snow blower and put new gas in with Seafoam. He said that did the trick. That was the only comment out of probably nearly 200 I have read saying anything bad about Sta-Bil. Is there any truth to this comment that Sta-Bil doesn't do well in cold weather? By the way, the Sta-Bil MSDS sheet says it is 95% natpha (you know, white gas/starter fluid/mineral spirits, etc. type of fuel distillate), and 5% "proprietary ingredients".
2) One of the ingredients in Seafoam (according to their MSDS sheet) is IPA (isopropyl alcohol) to help suspend water. A few posts say that Seafoam actually contains a small portion of water, not mentioned in the MSDS since its just water. What would Seafoam be accomplishing by having water in their formula, just to turn around and put in IPA to counteract it? Crazy. Is this even true that Seafoam has water in it? Seafoam's MSDS sheet says it is 40-60% "pale oil", 25-35% natpha, and 10-20% IPA. So what's the real deal with Seafoam? Better than Sta-Bil, or is this just an endless debate of who likes what? What is "pale oil?"
3) Some posters say follow your machine's manual by running the gas out of your machine and draining the carburetor. Some say to not do that as you may encourage moisture condensation. Others say go ahead and use your fuel stabilizer, run the machine for a few minutes to get the mixture into the carburetor and the rest of the system, and then just leave the mix in the tank during storage. What is the best way?
4) I'd like to hear some reliable opinions from some mechanics out there who can give me some factual opinions about these two products that everyone, it seems, thinks are the greatest things to use.
Thanks for the help.
http://www.abbysguide.com/ope/discussions/31458-0-1.html
But I'm still wondering if anyone HERE has any thoughts on using the two together ...
Originally Posted By: Winn
I had a rep ... tell me that using both products - together - essentially yields a more "thorough" or "complete" or "broader" form of protection as each product works from a somewhat different 'angle', as it were ...
And that using them together can provide a "synergistically" better form of stabilization ...
Anyway ... Any input / insights on that "theory" ???
{edited}
Anyone ?
Last edited:
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