Engine flushing??

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I have a 2.8lwb Mitsubishi turbo diesel Pajero, i think you call them a Monterey in the U.S. Its done approx 65,000 miles and has a full service history with regular oil changes. I am wanting to move over to synthetic oils as i run my bikes on synthetics and love the stuff. My question is do i need to flush the engine?
as my bikes have had synthetics from very low mileage this was not a concern with them. Various sites say to flush the engine especially diesels. I am wary of using flushing oils as when they clean out old deposits could they block oilways? As far as i am aware modern synthetics are compatible with semi synths and mineral oils so flushing is'nt needed or is it?

Can anyone advise please.
 
There is no need to flush the engine. Syn and Dino oils are compatible. If it were an issue would they make blended oils?

Just change it...............:)
 
Solvent flushing is a bad idea because of what you mentioned, deposits braking free simultaneously. Regular oil changes with modern oils do a good enough job of preventing deposits anyway, UNLESS the engine is not designed or built correctly.

Use synthetic if you want to.

The oil change machine in the middle of this page: http://www.bgprod.com/products/engineoil.html might make solvent flushing okay, but again, regular oil changes with modern oil prevent this in the huge majority of situations.
 
amsoil recommends using their engine flush when switching, and other people recommend auto-rx before switching.
or just run it.
 
Sounds like a good excuse to run some Auto-Rx before using synthetic oil. But seriously, with regular oil changes you would not have so many deposits to require a flush.
 
The action of a solvent flush product is to greatly thin the oil so more drains out. It does little to remove crud, and as said, if great amounts of crud are present may loosen some and lead to trouble.
 
There won't be any sludge deposits in a 4M40,it'll be clean as inside if you have been giving it regular oil changes.Biggest concern for those is to keep an eye on the cooling system - regular flushing and changing coolant is more important than oil in a 4M40.
 
wow, an engine flush at 60k! just switch to syn and do the first change a litle early as syn will dislodge some of the old stuff in the engine.
engine flush, what next paint protection, underbody protector
 
If the engine is properly maintained I can't see the need to flush an engine. I have seen the insides of many engines and if properly maintained there is not really any need to flush.
 
the engine has about 50,000 miles on it. When i got the engine it had 30,000 miles on it and i have no idea how well maintained it was before then. Ive taken the oil pan off before and everything seemed clean. No sludge and very little varnish. Im not to sure why the oil is sparkly maybe be timing component related i dont know. The engine is a 2005 GM ECOTEC. The engine doesnt knock or smoke and runs a heck of a lot better then the old one. which btw hydrolocked. Threw a rod
frown.gif
 
Welcome to the boards, good to see another Paj owner! Pop over to Auto-Rx UK and get yourself 2 bottles for £27 (plus £5.00 for delivery as far as I remember). Email the seller if you cannot purchase off eBay. Change your oil (preferably Castrol GTX Diesel 10W-40 - do not use synthetic or part-synthetic oil just yet. Halford's own brands are part-synthetic, even their "Enhanced" diesel oils, if you use those) and filter (which you can get here) and drive the truck for 2,500 miles (or 4,000 km if your Pajero is a Japanese import). Change your oil and filter again, then drive 3,000 miles (or 5,000 km). After this, feel free to switch to any synthetic of your choice. The engine internals will be clean, and you will get more for your money from your synthetic as it will actually stick to clean metal. A 90 ml dose of Auto-Rx with each oil change following your application will keep your engine clean. Good luck!

You can also use Auto-Rx in your auto box, power steering, transfer case and diffs.
 
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