I am about 1500 miles into a 20w50 oil fill in my 528e. Going into winter, I switch to 10w40 for sub 10f temps. I'm wondering if adding a pint of MMO will give me the desired viscosity with perhaps a little gentle cleaning for 1000 miles or so.
using MMO to thin 20w 50 to 10 w 40
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ouch, i invite you to read Dr. Haas's lectures -http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/aehaas/
you have a bimmer - you should pamper it a little more than
that, i will let dr. haas speak though.
you have a bimmer - you should pamper it a little more than
that, i will let dr. haas speak though.
http://www.bobistheoilbuy.com/aehaas/
if the link doesn't work, go to the forum called
interesting articles under science and technology.
if the link doesn't work, go to the forum called
interesting articles under science and technology.
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Originally Posted By: andyd
I am about 1500 miles into a 20w50 oil fill in my 528e. Going into winter, I switch to 10w40 for sub 10f temps. I'm wondering if adding a pint of MMO will give me the desired viscosity with perhaps a little gentle cleaning for 1000 miles or so.
Might work. Need to know the viscosity of the MMO. Maybe drain off in a clean container and re-use in spring, or just dump and call it a short OCI/Rinse. For winter, go directly to a 10w40, or even a 10w30 is your car manual allows that thin. Synthetic better for winter. If you get a lot of sub zero (F) temps, and I think you do in MA then may want 5w30 or even 0w30. If all short trip can do a 20 wt, again if spec for your vehicle allows that thin.
I am about 1500 miles into a 20w50 oil fill in my 528e. Going into winter, I switch to 10w40 for sub 10f temps. I'm wondering if adding a pint of MMO will give me the desired viscosity with perhaps a little gentle cleaning for 1000 miles or so.
Might work. Need to know the viscosity of the MMO. Maybe drain off in a clean container and re-use in spring, or just dump and call it a short OCI/Rinse. For winter, go directly to a 10w40, or even a 10w30 is your car manual allows that thin. Synthetic better for winter. If you get a lot of sub zero (F) temps, and I think you do in MA then may want 5w30 or even 0w30. If all short trip can do a 20 wt, again if spec for your vehicle allows that thin.
The spec for the engine is 10w40 below 30f. I havent run into issues until I get below 10f. I have no problems starting the engine at -15f using 10w 40 dino. That is about as cold as it gets in my neck of the woods. I wouldnt use lower than 10 in any case. I have run the M20 motor to 350k miles with out trouble on Walmart Supertech dino. No way am I gonna run synth or thinner oil.
The old school I6s in the 528es are rugged and reliable. The 528e is not an "ultimate driving machine". It is a modest sedan that is very under powered by modern standards.
The old school I6s in the 528es are rugged and reliable. The 528e is not an "ultimate driving machine". It is a modest sedan that is very under powered by modern standards.
No love for the MMO! I don't see why this wouldn't work...
It would probably work. Maybe not an exact hit for the weight you want, but close enough for gov't work. TBQH, if I were you I'd bite the bullet and get a decent 5W-40 or even 0W-40. I think there's still a syntec 5W-50 as well.
Problem is if MMO is 20 weight then he is not picking up much winter startability. MMO also probably does not have much antiwear (need to check with them) and so could dilute the zddp in the existing oil.
Yeah, andyd, stay with the book, min 10w40. It's been working fine. I turned a 6 qt fill of 5w30 in my pickup to 10w40 by draining off 2 qts and adding 2 qts 20w50. In your case, I would suggest drain half and add 5w30 so the 5w and 20w hopefully turn into 10w, and the 30 and 50 turn into 40. Or if you want to drain less, prob replace 2 qts with 5w20.
Yeah, andyd, stay with the book, min 10w40. It's been working fine. I turned a 6 qt fill of 5w30 in my pickup to 10w40 by draining off 2 qts and adding 2 qts 20w50. In your case, I would suggest drain half and add 5w30 so the 5w and 20w hopefully turn into 10w, and the 30 and 50 turn into 40. Or if you want to drain less, prob replace 2 qts with 5w20.
MMO is by itself is a 5 grade oil. I have no clue what viscosity it will change your current fill to. To run a pint for 1000 miles isn't going to hurt anything especially during the colder times of the year. I have done it many times w/o issue, and it will do some cleaning. Years ago I did run it full OCI's w/o issue, I no longer do that.
Before I started using A-Rx I would run about a pint of MMO for the last 500 or so miles of the OCI.
Frank D
Before I started using A-Rx I would run about a pint of MMO for the last 500 or so miles of the OCI.
Frank D
Some of the solvents in MMO would likely burn off or evaporate in a few hundred miles, and thicken up some anyway.
Changing to a thinner oil sounds like the better option.
My 2¢
Changing to a thinner oil sounds like the better option.
My 2¢
I guess another question to ask is how long will it take you to put on 1000 miles? If its going to be more than a few weeks I would consider changing the oil out to the proper grade. If its only a few weeks to a month I see no harm with the MMO.
Frank D
Frank D
Just add a quart of 0W-20 synthetic instead.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
MMO is by itself is a 5 grade oil.
Any idea what 100C viscosity that would be?
MMO is by itself is a 5 grade oil.
Any idea what 100C viscosity that would be?
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
MMO is by itself is a 5 grade oil.
Any idea what 100C viscosity that would be?
No idea, but I did find this out. Adding 20% MMO to a 5W-30 oil would bring it to about the viscosity of a 5W-20 oil.
Frank D
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
MMO is by itself is a 5 grade oil.
Any idea what 100C viscosity that would be?
No idea, but I did find this out. Adding 20% MMO to a 5W-30 oil would bring it to about the viscosity of a 5W-20 oil.
Frank D
Here's what I don't understand: when someone asks about adding a pint of MMO to oil, many people agree that it will thin his oil. But, when someone asks about adding a pint of super-thick-when-cold ARX to his oil and worries about his oil thickening in cold temps, everyone rushes to say things like "it's too small of an amount to have an effect" and "at this ratio the ARX takes on the viscosity of the host oil".
How does it work one way, but not the other?
How does it work one way, but not the other?
Originally Posted By: zrxkawboy
Here's what I don't understand: when someone asks about adding a pint of MMO to oil, many people agree that it will thin his oil. But, when someone asks about adding a pint of super-thick-when-cold ARX to his oil and worries about his oil thickening in cold temps, everyone rushes to say things like "it's too small of an amount to have an effect" and "at this ratio the ARX takes on the viscosity of the host oil".
How does it work one way, but not the other?
Tsk, Tsk, Tsk.
Obviously you need more training - I sentence you to read at least 2 ARX threads a day until you learn not to ask such questions.
If that doesn't work, we may need to re-write your source code.
Here's what I don't understand: when someone asks about adding a pint of MMO to oil, many people agree that it will thin his oil. But, when someone asks about adding a pint of super-thick-when-cold ARX to his oil and worries about his oil thickening in cold temps, everyone rushes to say things like "it's too small of an amount to have an effect" and "at this ratio the ARX takes on the viscosity of the host oil".
How does it work one way, but not the other?
Tsk, Tsk, Tsk.
Obviously you need more training - I sentence you to read at least 2 ARX threads a day until you learn not to ask such questions.
If that doesn't work, we may need to re-write your source code.
He just needs to read the FAQ on http://www.auto-rx.com (it,s the facts not supposition) Thanks.
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Somebody should take a virgin quart of oil and add the correct percentage of ARX, then take another virgin quart of the same brand and add the correct percentage of MMO, then take a third virgin quart and do nothing. Samples should be taken from each quart and sent off for viscosity testing. That's the only way this will be put to rest as far as I can see it.
We shoud start a pot to bet on the results. The pot pays for the test and any leftovers are divided among those with winning predictions. We'd have to have an impartial 3rd party to do the mixing and sampling of course.
We shoud start a pot to bet on the results. The pot pays for the test and any leftovers are divided among those with winning predictions. We'd have to have an impartial 3rd party to do the mixing and sampling of course.
I wouldn't worry so much about thick verses thin as much as I would about diluting the additive pack of the oil.
As for the 528e...the eta engines were designed to be fuel efficient. They are very much like diesels in their power delivery. Why saddle an efficient engine with that thick oil? The oil specs were written for that car in a different era. 10W40 was a joke back then. 0W40 M1 or any of the modern synth 5W40's would be a great oil in that car.
As for the 528e...the eta engines were designed to be fuel efficient. They are very much like diesels in their power delivery. Why saddle an efficient engine with that thick oil? The oil specs were written for that car in a different era. 10W40 was a joke back then. 0W40 M1 or any of the modern synth 5W40's would be a great oil in that car.
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