Kohler K301 engine break in oil

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Would like to know what type of oil I should use for break in oil after rebuild. Thats a engine that has new rings with Original cam and crank. I have used a 30w non detergent oil from walmart with a SA or SC rating in the past and dumped it a couple time in the first 1/2 hour than used Rotella 30w after.
 
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Stick with the 30w Rotella or about any 15w40. That SA SC rated stuff is pure garbage and isn't fit for a worn out push mower IMO.
 
bigsteve, not sure why you're using the older stuff ... and non-detergent to boot. I simply don't see the advantage.

I'd use any XW-30 mineral oil ... then dump it after 1-2 hours of runtime. Repeat this 2-3 times and I think you're good for an interval of 10 hours or more. Always check the drained oil for evidence of heavy shavings.

I would also consider using Marvel Mystery Oil (or even a little 2-cycle oil) in the gas at a treat-rate of 0.25 - 0.5 ounces per gallon. I like top cylinder lubrication when breaking in rings. Engines that I've done this for use little or no oil in moderate use. I wouldn't do this continually as I'd be afraid of fouling the combustion chamber, valves, spark plug, etc ... with many subsequent tankfuls.
 
The Kohler engine does not have a filter so using non detergent oil keeps the junk at the bottom of the pan, at least thats what I was told and the lack of friction modifiers for breaking in the rings.

I also like using MMO in the gas.

what does HDEO stand for? I'm sure HD Heavy Duty ? Oil
 
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Even modern engines without oil filters do not recommend non-detergent oil! Use the recommended oil. Rings and the rest of the engine will break-in just fine with a detergent oil.
 
bigsteve, HDEO = Heavy Duty Engine Oil. You were very close.

Yes, I suppose using a non-detergent oil may allow bits of shavings, solid byproducts, etc ... to drop out of suspension and accumulate at the bottom of the pan ... but these contaminants won't be a problem if you change the oil regularly, especially when the motor is very new. Personally, I don't want that junk accumulating in any engine of mine ... I want it OUT.

Very few engines call for non-detergent oil these days. I feel the ones that do are doing so for the many dimbulbs out there that would never think of changing oil in something small like a mower. For this lazy, short-sighted approach, non-detergent oil may keep the engine alive a bit longer ... maybe. But these neglected engines will have their lifespans shortened for sure.

In really older engines (some from the 50s and earlier) with poured-lead bearings, detergent oil may actually slowly dissolve the soft bearing material.

Otherwise, leave the non-detergent oils on the shelf.
 
Your motor will probably be fine. But I wouldn't make a practice of using a ND oil for break-in ... I just don't see the point as I don't think anything but the biggest pieces of metal will drop out of suspension in a running engine. Most of this happens when the engine sits and cools for hours.

My schedule for just about all new OPE is to run the new motor with the factory fill for 1-2 hours then dump the oil (don't do this on a full stomach).

Run it again for 2-3 hours and drain again (You'll still see a great deal of shavings, I'll bet).

3rd fill can go a bit longer ... I'd say 5-10 hours ... as the amount of metal in the oil will seriously drop off by now.

4th fill, I'd follow the most frequent schedule your owner's manual advises ... or something very close to it.

I'd give your re-ringed engine similar treatment ... maybe go an hour longer with each interval.

Best of luck.
 
I think we have over looked the OP's original concern about the best oil to use in a REBUILT engine.

I don't know if my tractor engine information applies to OPE engines, but here goes:

While many here say it is fine to break in a factory NEW engine with synthetic, I was taught that shop or "home" rebuilt engines are different than factory new engines. I was advised to stay away from too "slippery" oil for these break-ins. It has to do with less precise machining (cylinder hone, etc.).

I don't know about the non-detergent issue for literally a few hours.

John Deere still markets an oil labeled as break-in for use in their rebuilt engines. Maybe you can find out if it is a 30 wt..

As always, just my two cents. Here's JD's two cents:

http://www.frontierpower.com/service/breakinoil.htm
 
https://webtop.deere.com/webtop/pdocshar...ootpaths=/
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During break in and regular tractor use after break in the K301s kohler engine should be run at highest throttle setting because of its splash/slinger oil system and fan cooling.
 
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I have a K301 on my gravely...we rebuilt it 5 years ago, and it has only seen Rotella 30w or 15w40. It was not "broken in", just put back into service mowing and plowing snow.

You do not need to run them at full throttle, that's just irresponsible. I run my K301 at just above an idle, it never overheats (even mowing)...and the sling system doesn't need a lot of RPM to properly oil the system.
 
Deeter, it is not irresponsible to run an engine at the designed operating speed. I have seen engines overheated and warp heads due to people idling them around all day.
These engines need at least 3000 rpm in order for the flywheel to blow enough air through the cooling fins.
An engine will not be harmed in any way by running at the rpm's it was made to run.
 
And you will be rebuilding that engine a lot sooner than I ever will...I've been around these models of kohlers all my life and know they don't like being full throttle all the time. You WILL replace the rod in it, as they tend to break the rods if ran at high RPM without a load on them...which is what you are implying.

If they were designed to be full throttle all the time then why did they even bother placing a throttle control on the engine????? Why wouldn't they just block the throttle open at a predetermined RPM and let it scream?????

I would like to see where they state a minimum 3k RPM for cooling...I have a lot of books (owners manuals, factory service manual, maintenance manuals) on these engines (the K-series) and not one specifies a RPM for cooling.
 
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