Hose clamp question

[road_rascal]

How tight should radiator hose clamps be? I replaced the upper and lower hoses on my Windstar a little over 6 months ago. Last month the upper hose started to weep a bit at the engine side. A couple of turns of the clamp screw cured that. Now, the lower hose on the radiator side is starting to leak. Do I really have to torque the crud out of the clamps? The clamps were replaced with new ones when the hoses were replaced.

 

[Eddie]

Worm gear type? I lock those down quite hard so the rubber on each side of the clamp is higher that the clamp surface. Make sure you are getting the clamp over the riser bib. No a bad I dea to retighten after a month or so as the rubber will have relaxed some.

 

[moribundman]

If you tighten the screw clamp too much, you will damage the hose. I use my calibrated elbow when tightening clamps. If you are unsure how tight a hose clamp should be, then you may be better off using spring clamps.

 

[OVERKILL]

The EFI clamps are also much less likely to damage the hose compared to the typical worm gear clamps.

 

[road_rascal]

Yup- worm gear clamps. And they're over the lip/ bib. If I still have problems I'll replace 'em with spring clamps. Thanks!

 

[onion]

Squirt some motor oil up in the worm gear assembly before tightening. It'll allow you to apply a lot more clamping force before the clamp binds or strips out.

I agree with Eddie on how tight the clamp needs to be (I deal with this on a daily basis at work). But be careful and don't tighten so much that the clamp starts cutting into the hose. It's a developed feel.

I didn't think so years ago, but I've come to believe that spring clamps are a more reliable design... thing is that they're kinda hard to find in the aftermarket, and they're somewhat application-specific.

Worm gear clamps work fine, but require more attention when installing.

 

[paulo57509]

I seem to recall reading someplace that worm gear clamps should be tightened to 15 in-lb.

Edit: Carroll Smith's book about automotive fasteners and plumbing recommends 15 in-lb max. Tighten the clamps with the system hot. Clamp tightness must be checked periodically.

I think this is why some folks prefer spring-type clamps.

 

[moribundman]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
The EFI clamps are also much less likely to damage the hose compared to the typical worm gear clamps.


Yankee clamps suck.

I use ABA or Norma clamps. They have rolled edges and tighten evenly without damaging hoses. Goodyear sells now Norma clamps in the US.

 

[moribundman]

Originally Posted By: onion
Squirt some motor oil up in the worm gear assembly before tightening. It'll allow you to apply a lot more clamping force before the clamp binds or strips out.


My goal is not to "strip out" the clamp. I don't know why you would want to tighten a clamp more than necessary. Makes no sense.

 

[onion]

Yeah, that's kinda the point of putting oil in the worm gear. It allows the clamp to be made significantly tighter without damaging the worm gear.

But do what you want. Don't mind me. I've only dealt with this issue for about 5 days a week, average of 50 weeks per year, over the past 13 years or so.

 

[oilboy123]

The regular worm clamps suck...I have used them for years and they are problematic at best. IMO they always need to be retightened. They sometimes leak on me even after that.

I now use Goodyear smart clamps. The have a spring piece that keeps pressure on and lessens the chance of a leak.
I am spending more money but sometimes you can't even get to a clamp to retighten it later. I would rather pay a little more for less chance of coolant leaks.


I buy them from Shucks Auto AKA Parts America, Murrays etc. I was told they sell a lot to their commercial accounts.

 

[moribundman]

Originally Posted By: onion
Yeah, that's kinda the point of putting oil in the worm gear. It allows the clamp to be made significantly tighter without damaging the worm gear.

But do what you want. Don't mind me. I've only dealt with this issue for about 5 days a week, average of 50 weeks per year, over the past 13 years or so.


Yeah, I'm sure it takes an expert to first of all opt for a lousy clamp that then needs to be tightened to the point of it getting stripped unless lube is used.

 

[XS650]

Originally Posted By: onion
Yeah, that's kinda the point of putting oil in the worm gear. It allows the clamp to be made significantly tighter without damaging the worm gear.

But do what you want. Don't mind me. I've only dealt with this issue for about 5 days a week, average of 50 weeks per year, over the past 13 years or so.


Most people learn faster than that.

The problem with that type of clamp is that it doesn't compensate for expansion and contraction of the hose with temperature changes or relaxation of the rubber with age. As a result you have to tighten the snot out of them to make them work.

 

[mechtech2]

This is why most factory radiator clamps are a spring type. They exert constant pressure as they and the hose seat in, and change with temperature.
Expect to have to re-tighten screw clamps -this is normal.

 

[oilboy123]

I can see the reason for onion using oil on the clamps. I have used regular clamps just to later see seepage. I would then tighten them more. Seems like you had to boderline strip the worm drives to eliminate leakage.

I got sick of the whole thing.
Hence my mentioning the Goodyear smart clamp. Don't have to deal with a freakin spring clamps witch are a pain to deal with.

The smart clamp has a spring insert that keeps constant tension on the hose.

 

[AcuraTech]

I gave up on worm clamps for my personal vehicles a long time ago. Always walking a fine line between leaking and wrecking the hose or cracking the radiator tank from over-tightening.

I use the OEM spring type, haven't had one leak yet. Even when they get old and a little bit rusty, they still work fine.

The only problem is that you have to be careful when compressing them, those suckers will fly halfway across the shop!

 

[tom slick]

The reason for oil on worm "breeze" clamps is the stainless steel likes to gall so you can't apply enough torque for good clamping pressure. a drip of oil makes them function fine.

I like the wire type clamps the japanese cars use.

 

[kingrob]

Why is everyone having problem with worm gear clamps? Am I the only person that prefers these over the spring clamps? I've never had to retighten after expansion or go through the rubber or anything. No leaks, no bursts, etc. I replace the spring clamps with worm clamps when I replace the hoses, the rubber then goes bad before the clamps do (and I'm talking like the ten/twelve year mark). I just put them on pretty tight with the appropriate sized socket and call it a day.

 

[moribundman]

Originally Posted By: kingrob
Why is everyone having problem with worm gear clamps?


I have no problems with them. I don't use the clamps you commonly find at the local auto parts stores, though. Good clamps don't get loose by backing out over time, and you can tighten them without oiling the mechanism, but they need to be retightened when the hose compresses over time.

Cheap clamps, thin with sharp edges, literally bite and cut into the hose, which is enough reason to not use them. Apparently some of those clamps require oil. No thanks, I say to such garbage.

On something like a radiator hose I'll use only OE spring clamps. If I were to use a gear clamp, I'd make sure it's a good one.

 

[harry j]

Lookup "titanium hose clamps" those things are out of this world. Extremely light weight, stronger than anything you can get locally. They will never rust.