'05 Duramax UOA w/ 18k on oil

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Couldn't copy the file, but here it is. It can be compared to the other thread that had the UOA with 8k on the sample for those of you that wnat some sort of trend or comparison. The Silica count has me a little concerned and wondering if I should change, though that wasn't my plan. Any input from you guys (DNewt or Ark)
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would be cool. Thanks and here ya go...

2005 GMC 2500HD Duramax
108k on the truck
18k on the oil
Amsoil AME 15w-40
Bypass Filtration BMK 17 Dual

Iron-19
Chromium-0
Nickel-1
Aluminum-2
Copper-5
Lead-3
Tin-1
Silver-0
Cadmium-0
Titanium-0

Silicon-23
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Sodium-6
Potassium-2

Magnesium-13
Calcium-4013
Phosphorous-1208
Zinc-1587

Fuel- Soot- Water- Viscosity-14.0
TBN-7.5
Oxidation-38
Nitrates-17
 
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Stock intake with an AC Delco filter. Think I should be worried about the silicon number? I am concerned since it indicates "abrasives" or dirt.
 
what type of driving? all freeway, any off pavement? haul any hay=usually loaded with dirt i.e. silicon.

increase of 8ppm in silicon since last UOA
must be a freeway queen

oil should make at least 25K unless you really start to work the engine hard and viscosity drops

lots of light truck diesels are worse than that after 5K on a 15w40 mineral oil.
 
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Everything looks great except for the silicon. I'll echo the question on air filtration. Perhaps if the filter is in good shape, do you have a loose clamp or tear in a boot/hose? Have you had any maintenance done recently?

Regardless of the silicon root cause, it hasn't taken it's toll on the wear metals ......yet.

It could be an erroneous reading, but who knows? I'd not rest until the answer is clear. Nothing to panic about, but nothing to ignor, either.


BTW - moving to diesel UOA section.
 
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By any chance did you add an anti-foam additive?
I used fleetrite anti foam once and my silicon level spiked up from 6 to 20. Stopped using the fleetrite and now back to around 6
 
Hey guys.....truck is mostly highway driving, but I do live and work on a ranch and the roads get dusty when its dry. I haven't hauled hay in awhile since it gets delivered. Just changed my air filter today. I use Wix or Napa Gold. This last one had a lot of dirt and bugs after only 10k of use. The dirt was black and very slightly oily? I had a K&N before this one, but learned that those are not good for turbos. I checked all of my boots and clamps and all seem to be ok.

I am just thinking of cahnging in another 5k miles. Any opinions? I wouldn't if it were not for that higher silicon reading. The oil itself is still in great shape. My other question is why wouldn't my bypass filtration be filtering out the particles? It goes down to 2 microns. I guess the silica would be smaller? Anyhoo, hope this helps......
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Originally Posted By: chris1978
By any chance did you add an anti-foam additive?
I used fleetrite anti foam once and my silicon level spiked up from 6 to 20. Stopped using the fleetrite and now back to around 6


No, haven't used any additives....just the oil is all that's there.
 
that Duramax will outlast you and your desire to drive it with those low build up rates of silicon.
your on the right path for long diesel life.
change the air filter often with a quality name brand and keep everything on the intake side to the turbo well sealed.

how often you change the Allison ATF?
rebuild costs on one of these high tech rugged beasts will drive most owners away from keeping a Jimmy diesel auto tranny.
 
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Steel, I don't have the Allison. My truck has the ZF 6-speed. I use Amsoil Torque Drive, which is Transynd's replacement and change about every 50k. When I amtowing heavy, even on a hot day, I can touch the bottom part of the stick, and it isn't even warm. It's either a very well insulated floor, or it just doesn't get hot.
 
look and see if Amsoil has a Ea filter that would help with the off road dust. Si, sub micron in size no filter will get.

Looking very good otherwise.
 
Originally Posted By: leaves and lawns
"I had a K&N before this one, but learned that those are not good for turbos" why is that please?


They do not filter as well as a dry filter and the oil from the filter media can coat the inside of the intake duct. Turbos can be sensitive to dust and dirt particles that the K&N may not get. I just wanted to be on the safe side after doing some research. Turbos are expensive to replace. I noticed ZERO performance difference when going back to a dry Wix air filter.
 
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Just for an update here, I am no longer using Amsoil. I switched to Delvac and removed my Bypass for simplicity and noise reduction. I'll do one UOA after a 7.5k run and see where I am at. My guess is that it will be more than fine, based on other UOA's using the same formula. My plan is to change every 10k with no oil analysis or fretting. It cost me $40 to do my last OC as opposed to $175 preferred customer price for the 25k Amsoil change. That price includes UOA's, oil, and filters. It just wasn't worth it to me, not to mention the hassle of ordering, etc......Heck, 3 oil changes on my current formula still doesn't meet the expense of one Amsoil change and my truck is just as well protected. So, $175 for 25k run or $120 for 30k run......hmmmmmm....seems simple to me. AND I can just walk in to a parts store and buy it with no hassle. Just my thoughts on a Tuesday morning.
 
Darn it, you continue to confound the issue with factual basis and clarity of thought. How dare you analyze UOAs, compare/contrast results, and then come to a sound fiscal conclusion to fit your personal situation? What manner of man are you to imply that simple dino fluids and conventional filtration used within "normal" operating patterns will suffice? These are the ways of treachery and evil. Synthetics will save the soul of your truck, dear man, and nothing else ...

Seriously, though, I look forward to your results. I always enjoy using good data to repute the nay-sayers of dino fluids.
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Originally Posted By: cowhorse01
Just for an update here, I am no longer using Amsoil. I switched to Delvac and removed my Bypass for simplicity and noise reduction. I'll do one UOA after a 7.5k run and see where I am at. My guess is that it will be more than fine, based on other UOA's using the same formula. My plan is to change every 10k with no oil analysis or fretting. It cost me $40 to do my last OC as opposed to $175 preferred customer price for the 25k Amsoil change. That price includes UOA's, oil, and filters. It just wasn't worth it to me, not to mention the hassle of ordering, etc......Heck, 3 oil changes on my current formula still doesn't meet the expense of one Amsoil change and my truck is just as well protected. So, $175 for 25k run or $120 for 30k run......hmmmmmm....seems simple to me. AND I can just walk in to a parts store and buy it with no hassle. Just my thoughts on a Tuesday morning.


Mmmm Ditto...I did the same thing ..except I left the bypass on. I will continue to use the Amsoil for Diff / PS / 2 stroke but I have a local parts shop that carries that. Delvac has not dropped in the Wally world at home but traveling into NC, SC & VA it is running $10 / gal.
 
I went with Amsoil for a bit and liked it, but I prefer Delo, just more cost effective and easier to come by. So, I'm running that on bypass and taking uoa once in a while to make sure things are fine. I know I can make 15000 miles on dino with my setup.
 
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