2001 Honda Accord Catalytic Converter Flange Studs

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Waterdown, Ontario, Canada
Does anyone have any experience with replacing the studs on the catalytic converter flanges on a 2001 Accord 4cyl.

The joint at the rear of the catalytic converter separated - the nuts have disintegrated and allowed the exhaust pipe to move backward and open the joint. The studs are also corroded but I was able to clean up enough thread to get a new nut on each. May hold for a week or a year - no way of telling. The front studs are in better shape but should be done at the same time.

The studs appear to be welded to the cat side of the flange. As I don't have any torches, I considered removing the rusted studs by grinding off the heads and then replacing them with bolts. I have since been told that the studs may be splined into the flange and that the only way to remove them is to heat the flange and punch the stud out. Again, no torches at home so anything of that nature will have to be done by a muffler shop.

Has anyone replaced these studs - can it be done with a grinder or is it necessary to use torches?

Any insight appreciated. Definitely not a panic situation but I would like to get a permanent fix under there before the snow starts to fly.

Thanks...
 
I have replaced them on a 1996 and it looks like Bill Kay Honda has them for sale (I assumed you had a 4-door DX model):

http://www.bkhondaparts.com/billkay/jsp/...witch=&hidIrno=

I only had to punch out the studs on mine, they weren't welded in place. It has been a while and maybe I did grind off the heads first, I can't recall.

On mine though, I just replaced them with some appropriately sized stainless steel bolts. But you can buy the parts if you so desire.
 
It's up to you which route you need to go. If you were able to get the nuts off without the help of a torch, you're a better man than I.

Generally the studs won't need to be replaced. I've had cars where the nuts were almost rusted down to nothing, and had to get them red hot with the torch to be removed. But the studs were still fine.

If you're intent on replacing the studs, you can usually get them out by whacking them hard enough with a big hammer. Shouldn't be welded in, just splined and slightly tapered. Word of advice replace the old nuts with locking nuts, that way they're less likely to back out.
 
I'm with acuratech, give them a good whack with a 2 lb sledge. If you've ever done a wheel stud it should be about the same.
 
Just curious .. how many miles on your Accord? I have a fair amount of experience with these cars, especially the 4 cyl. models as you have.

If the car has 110-120K, my experience is that you are near the end of the cat's life. Might want to replace the converter while you're doing all this work? I recently bought a direct fit converter from NAPA for about $150. Also, consider if you will be able to get the rear oxygen sensor out of the old converter - might have to purchase that, too.

Just a thought. If you don't see yourself keeping the car much longer, then replacing the stud w/ a bolt is probably the way to go. I see you live in Canada, which means snowy winters & road salt. If your area is like Maine, you can forget doing any exhaust work on a 2001 without a torch. Muffler shop is my vote!! Good luck. These are great cars that require just minimal maintenance to go many miles.

Steve
 
Thanks to everyone who replied... took the car into a muffler shop and they used a torch to remove the corroded studs and bolted everything back together.

Market525... the car has 200,000km (125,000 miles) and the cat is indeed at the end of its life. It has developed a rattle and is in need of replacement. Muffler shop quoted $285.00cdn parts and labour to put on a Magnaflow (looks identical to the OEM unit). I will have to shop around a bit and see what else is available up here. As I intend to keep this car for another 3 or 4 years it is worth doing.
 
If the studs were good, why replace them? I would go with copper or brass nuts. I've had bad luck with stainless and no longer use it in automotive applications.
 
Good point on the cat replacement. Some of them go out around that mileage, check engine will come on with DTC P0420 (Catalyst Deterioration). Usually for no rhyme or reason. Aftermarket is the way to go, OEM is ridiculously expensive. (Usually US$ 500 and up, sometimes approaching $1000)
 
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