Change oil BEFORE or AFTER winter storage?

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Tecumseh 6.5hp on a 22" Toro mower. Usually run Rotella 30W or sometimes M1 10W-30. Should I change the oil before I store it for the winter, or after I pull it out of storage in the spring? Also, if I do it before winter, am I good to go come springtime, or do I need to change it yet again before mowing? Thanks.
 
Before storage. You want clean oil to sit in the crankcase and not oil laden with acidic combustion byproducts. The oil will still be perfectly good come springtime.
 
Before. What Kestas said.

If you feel that your storage environment will condense a LOT of moisture into the oil over the winter, you could fill it some clean "anything", and change it again with your "real choice" in the spring.

On the other hand, any moisture would probably boil out of the oil in a reasonable time anyways.
 
I used to put the fresh oil in the spring after storage.

But, I've got to admit changing it before storage makes the most sense! It's what I will do once my grass "dies" for the winter...
 
I change the oil every 10 hrs so it really does not matter. The oil in there now is very clean looking so it is staying in until next spring after the first cutting or two..

If I were a once a season oil changer it would be a different story.
 
Originally Posted By: Pete591
I change the oil every 10 hrs so it really does not matter.


Change the oil and top off the gas?
LOL.gif
 
For the anal retentive... in addition to changing the oil, it is good to run the engine briefly afterward to circulate the new oil throughout.
 
Well, for the anal retentive, it's important to change the oil hot. For me, this means my pre-storage oil change doesn't actually happen literally right before storage. I make a judgment around this time of year (in my climate) and change the oil after a good, hard mow that has everything really hot. I might run the mower a couple of more times before the grass stops growing completely but the slightly used oil is still way less acidic than if I had left it until first thing in the spring.

It's hard to know when the "last mow" actually is and, even at that, the last mow is not usually a hard, hot one. Instead it's usually around 40F and just evening up the grass height and bagging leaves prior to snow.

I changed all of my summer OPE oil this weekend. The lawnmower after cutting and mulching and the pressure washer after I used it to clean the underside of the mower deck :)
 
Why every 10 hrs?

I use the machine about 10hrs/mos. That's 50 hrs/season roughly.

I use M-1 15W-50 sp the cost of the oil is $70.00

Filters 2x per season.

It's cheap insurance .
 
Pete591, that's more than a bit excessive ... especially since you are using good oil (Mobil 1) and your engine has a spin-on filter that catches most of the debris.

Now, I will change the oil every 2-3 hours ... during an engine's first dozen hours ... assuming I am using a conventional oil and the engine does not have a spin-on filter. The 'silver soup' that drains out of the engine at this early point in its life vindicates my obsessiveness entirely.

But once an OPE engine is properly broken in, I would change it at most twice per season. Running one of Dad's snowblowers hard for about 10-15 hours one mild season, I drained the oil ... because I didn't want dirty, acidic oil sitting in the sump for an entire year or more.

But, 10 hour intervals for a (non racing) engine seeing regular use in warm weather? That's just a waste.

I see no reason you can't drain twice per season without sacrificing a bit of performance or longevity. And when you drain your oil, don't forget to clean and re-oil your air filter.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
For the anal retentive... in addition to changing the oil, it is good to run the engine briefly afterward to circulate the new oil throughout.


I'm not a.r. , but it amazes me how much stuff I learn on this site every day. Staggering. and Thanks!
 
Related question: Drain E10 fuel before storage (run the engine dry), or leave it in the tank with Stabil?
 
Originally Posted By: SubLGT
Related question: Drain E10 fuel before storage (run the engine dry), or leave it in the tank with Stabil?


This seems to be a personal preference, and you'll get people touting both answers, 40 years experience etc...

I'm a "dry" person for a couple of reasons. One is that I'm presently able to store a number of my summer OPE pieces in my basement for the winter. I don't anything with fuel in it down there.

Second, and related, is the number of people who don't have fuel shut off valves and get surprise leaks when there's a float valve problem. All of a sudden fuel is running across the floor of their garage, shed, whatever and they had no idea. Even if it isn't in the house, that's deadly.

I actually do a combination of both. Because of variable consumption and fairly low fuel usage throughout the season in suburbia I ALWAYS have Stabil (and FP+) in my OPE fuel. Then I drain the tanks, run them dry, AND drain the carb bowls.

My 5 y/o Honda carb looks like it is brand new in the box.
 
Originally Posted By: Pete591
Why every 10 hrs?

I use the machine about 10hrs/mos. That's 50 hrs/season roughly.

I use M-1 15W-50 sp the cost of the oil is $70.00

Filters 2x per season.

It's cheap insurance .



OMG, your engine will fall apart. That is not good enough by any measure.
You *MUST* change oil and filter for every tank of gas to remove the massive amount of contaminants that accumulate in the engine. You cannot believe how much [censored] accumulates in oil after only 2 hours!!!!!

LOL
 
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