JB Weld For Aluminum Radiator

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I have a small coolant leak, so today I cleaned the radiator real good and took it for a drive, when I came home I popped the hood and the radiator tube on the radiator by my tank and it is the 2nd one down from the top had a small coolant leak. It is where the tube meets the tank. I called up Bars Leak and the guy told me that it is hard for his product to work in that area because it is at the top of the radiator. I stood there and watched it ooze out slowly for 30 seconds and then it stopped. The Bars Leak guy recommended I use Jb Weld. I plan to clean the area again and maybe even drain the radiator, then mix the stuff, put it on and let it sit for 24 hours. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
JB is a bit of a long shot for that repair. And, if it doesn't work, next step would be to replace the radiator because the JB would be all but impossible to remove to prepare the area for another type of repair.

If you are looking for a quick and dirty repair, ignore the Barsleak guy and try one of the lighter radiator repair goops. At least if it doesn't work, you will still have other options.
 
I have used loctite epoxy to get certain cars out of this situation.

I once saw a Northstar powered Cadillac that developed a radiator crack many years ago, so the owner used loctite epoxy. Eventually the radiator had to be replaced anyway, because the transmission cooler started letting engine coolant into the transmission.
 
What about that radiator putty stuff, and why is JB Weld a long shot, I mean it is a very small pinhole. Every morning there is just a fairly small drop. I know I can pick up the radiator putty at NAPA.
 
At the race track, we'll put pepper in the cooling system to stop a leak. The pepper finds the path of least resistance. I did it to crummy Honda Accord that I had for a winter car...well, it ended up being two years, but the pepper kept coolant in it.
 
LOL! None of these JayBee weld or similar gonna hold due to thermal expansion exhibited on aluminium.

The only way to properly fix the problem is either (a) aluminium weld, or (b)get a new replacement radiator.

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
LOL! None of these JayBee weld or similar gonna hold due to thermal expansion exhibited on aluminium.

The only way to properly fix the problem is either (a) aluminium weld, or (b)get a new replacement radiator.

Q.


If it's at a joint as he first said, I agree with you. If it's just a pinhole like he later said, there is a good chance that some magic leak stopper will give him a few years.
 
We are now down to pepper or aluminum weld, can I get this aluminum weld anywhere or is this something that has to be done by a professional. I am not overheating, the radiator is holding pressure up until I turn the car off. If JB Weld is not going to work why does it say on the box that it is for radiators. I once had a different intake manifold on the El Camino which was aluminum and I had a plate on the EGR port, it came loose, so I tried to tighten the bolts and they just spun, I put some JB Weld on and it held fine, that intake manifold would still be on there but I put a different 1 on.
 
Originally Posted By: oilyriser
What happens when the next guy works on a system full of pepper?

Well, if it's full, I don't think it's liquid cooled anymore.

I think the most I ever used was three of the little packets from McDonalds.
 
Originally Posted By: SD26
Originally Posted By: oilyriser
What happens when the next guy works on a system full of pepper?

Well, if it's full, I don't think it's liquid cooled anymore.



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JB Weld is great, and should work for years.
There is a 'quick' JB Weld, and a longer setting one. For odd places that the epoxy will run off of, the quick is best.
Also there is a JB weld putty epoxy, where you knead the material together. Real tough and strong.
The key is a CLEAN surface, with some tooth or bite to it. Sanding or otherwise roughening it up is important.
 
I did the JB Weld thing and it was fine for a few days but now it is leaking more, so I ordered a direct fit radiator, there are 2 problems, 1 is that the radiator I got in there was not exactly a direct fit, I may have had the radiator touching the metal radiator support before I put some rubber pieces in between the radiator and radiator support, the other problem with this car is that the body mount bushings are shot so there may be some movement in the body and frame. I am going to the junk yard to get some rubber radiator supports or cushings, I will not be driving this car until I have the radiator in the right way, actually this radiator has been leaking on and off for 6 months. The radiator I got is an aluminum radiator with plastic tanks, I got it for $100.00, hopefully with the plastic tank there will be no electrolysis issues, will have to see.
 
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