2006 CBR600RR Amsoil MCF 10w40 1550mi

[Knightslugger]

Air Filter: OEM Stock (untouched since day 1)
Oil Filter: Pureolator Pure One PL14612 (Blue Series)
Riding style: Occasional Hard working Commuter
Riding Environment: Cold morning start ups, Engine warm up to 40C and i'm moving, 3000 RPM typical engine speeds, 15 minute engine run time 2 times a day minimum.

It'll take me a while to get to 2500 miles for my Next UOA. i suggest others to post up their UOAs of this oil with the same kind of break-down.

overall Impressions: I like the TBN A LOT, and the Viscosity is a Solid 30 so it's very stable whereas the GN4 before it pooped out quite badly at the same milage. This is a money saver oil compared to GN4... possibly others.

 

[Pablo]

Their comments aside, you have quite a bit a bit of fuel in your oil. The flash point is down to 365° in 1500 miles - that's huge. Viscosity is very low in an oil with a strong resistance to shear and iron wear is high. I would check the fuel system - do other CBR600RRs usually run rich?

 

[sunruh]

Al, Cu, Si all up.
and Fe so high that you would think someone is cleaning a used metal file in your sample.
or rust.

hmmmmm.

viscosity so low that i wonder if pelican wizz would not be thicker in only 1550 miles. and the previous run was ALMOST a 20wt (9.35 vs 9.30)!

 

[Pablo]

Yeah I'm not sure which is worse, the fuel or the intake issue or maybe they are related. This oil has a very strong resistance to mechanical shear, so with the low flash point in such short miles, you can tell the oil has some fuel in it.

The aluminum does point to to some type of intake leak, even though your insolubles are very low. This should be checked out ASAP along with your fuel system.

 

[Knightslugger]

i'm sure i'm running richer than i aught to be as i've modified the velocity stacks above the throttle bodies without remapping.

I honestly didn't think the viscosity was that bad at all... it's a solid 30.

 

[sunruh]

if you don't mind paying 4x for a 30wt that says 40wt on the jug, then all is fine.

 

[Knightslugger]

Well, what is there to say if i ran the 10w30 Amsoil 4Stroke formula that it wouldn't be a 20wt... no better than GN4 at the same interval...!

If i ran a 50wt, would i be any better off?

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: Knightslugger
Well, what is there to say if i ran the 10w30 Amsoil 4Stroke formula that it wouldn't be a 20wt... no better than GN4 at the same interval...!

If i ran a 50wt, would i be any better off?


I'll stick with my original input. No need to switch viscosities, just see if you can solve the fuel issue.

 

[whitesands]

You might as well use a conventional 10W40 car oil and shorten the interval...I doubt the results would be any worse.

 

[Mackelroy]

It takes a good 5,000 mile before the tranny dbri slows.

I ran the 15w40 ams on my vfr, and it was pretty hard ridden. Much like your intervals. But I didnt start testing it till around 7 to 8,000 mile. Amsoil at 2000 mile would be around minimum flash point and would be a 30 weight oil, the 5w40 diesils broke down even quicker.

But the same bike now with 38,000 miles, the oil holds up alot better and longer, so I wouldnt worry much for now but keep your present intervals till ya get past this breakin.

But at 8,000 mile I would see about 10 on iron and 7 or 8 on alumiminum in 2000 mile, maybe yours improves in a few thousand. Ofcourse the sport bikes can be pretty hard on oil.

All my testes where after multihoured runs

 

[FZ1]

How do you like the shift quality of the Amsoil vs. other oils you have run??

 

[Mackelroy]

The heavier weight oils seem to offer the best shifting IMO

AS I recall the difference between 5w40 rotella and 15w40 ams was very noticable shift wise, AMS being better.

 

[FZ1]

Thanks,man.

 

[whitesands]

Do you have any fuel management software installed ?

 

[Knightslugger]

i do not.

i found the shifting difference negligible at best. i did a little test to see if shifting felt any better/different between one oil and another, GN4 and MCF. I could feel a physical difference going from old oil to GN4, but from GN4 to MCF... nothin. it's not because it's synthetic... it's because it's new oil, simply.

 

[sunruh]

uh oh. another guy with a brain posting.

we'll have none of that here mr knight!!!

back to your cheese factory with you.

 

[wileyE]

The UOA is a series of 15 minute rides, each with a "warm up to 40c" fuel enrichement, a motor with a ring pack that's primary function is low friction. That explains the fuel dilution I'd guess. It's unreasonable to expect the owner to change his routine. So my un qualified advise might be to forget the amsoil line of offsetting the high cost of their oil by running it longer, it just isn't working out in this application. What good is high tbn if the oil is fuel dilluted and out of grade? Buy some cheaper oil and change it more often. Save the amsoil for an application that you only service once a year and don;'t do UOA, LOL.

 

[sunruh]

where is the standing ovation emoticon?

 

[lazaro]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
Their comments aside, you have quite a bit a bit of fuel in your oil. The flash point is down to 365° in 1500 miles - that's huge. Viscosity is very low in an oil with a strong resistance to shear and iron wear is high. I would check the fuel system - do other CBR600RRs usually run rich?

Pablo could all the fuel come from all the short trips he takes?
Quote:
Riding Environment: Cold morning start ups, Engine warm up to 40C and i'm moving, 3000 RPM typical engine speeds, 15 minute engine run time 2 times a day minimum.

that really not enough time to get the engine up to full operating temperature...

 

[lazaro]

Originally Posted By: wileyE
The UOA is a series of 15 minute rides, each with a "warm up to 40c" fuel enrichement, a motor with a ring pack that's primary function is low friction. That explains the fuel dilution I'd guess. It's unreasonable to expect the owner to change his routine. So my un qualified advise might be to forget the amsoil line of offsetting the high cost of their oil by running it longer, it just isn't working out in this application. What good is high tbn if the oil is fuel dilluted and out of grade? Buy some cheaper oil and change it more often. Save the amsoil for an application that you only service once a year and don;'t do UOA, LOL.

I apologize I posted without reading the whole thread. your remarks are spot on...