KIA coolant question...

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fxs

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new mexico
does anyone know about the factory fill coolant used by KIA motors?

i have a 2007 sportage and all i know for sure is that the factory coolant is green in color and the manual reccomends ethylene glycol coolant.

what do you guys say and is toyota red a viable substitute?

thanks.
 
If you're going to change the coolant every two years, ethylene glycol is fine (and economical). If you change fluids for extended fluid change intervals, the toyota fluid should be fine. Make sure you do a thorough flush if changing fluids (most coolants mixed with ethylene glycol should be changed after two years, just like ethylene glycol itself).
 
You have a misunderstanding.

Except for Sierra and other Propylene Glycol coolants (aka environmentally friendly coolants) all automotive coolant is ethylene glycol. I believe it is safe to say that all original equipment coolant is ethylene glycol.

About 95% or so is this chemical base. It is the additive package that is different. Dexcool, G05, "old green snot of death", are all ethylene glycol based.
 
Originally Posted By: fxs
does anyone know about the factory fill coolant used by KIA motors?

i have a 2007 sportage and all i know for sure is that the factory coolant is green in color and the manual reccomends ethylene glycol coolant.

what do you guys say and is toyota red a viable substitute?

thanks.


You'll get little in the way of official guidance, XS. Kia is a Hyundai, in effect, not Toyota. Forget Toyota. The manual tells us (I have a Hyundai AccentGT, 2005), in so many words, "Use a good-quality ethylene-glycol anti-freeze/coolant". As such, follow their words, save your receipts, follow the schedule. The schedule for that vehicle is going to be 60,000 miles/5 years first changeout, with changeouts thereafter every two years/30,000 miles.

Old advice is still the BEST advice, I don't care how many manufacturers tell us coolant is good for 150,000 miles. You should raise the hood every other fill-up, check the oil, make sure the overflow tank goes up and down with the hot/cold cycles of the engine (learn the levels and observe, this is the best indicator of trouble), and pop the radiator cap off when the car is cold once every month or two, take a peek at the tubes and ensure the level is to the top of the neck, and that's all you can do. It's also the least you ought to do if you want to avoid trouble. Simple concepts, these, but even with better cars and longer maintenance intervals, I still trust only my own eyes.
 
thank you, toocrazy2yoo.

after i posted, i called the kia dealer (out of town - 90 mi. away) and talked to the service manager. he told me that kia markets their own brand of coolant available at their parts dept. i'm sure it will be the same as the green stuff that's in there now. i'll be flushing and re-filling way before 60 k.

i agree, the service manual is heavy on detail about everything except do it yourself maintenance. this is my first experience with a front wheel drive/all wheel drive type vehicle. the selling price and expected mileage were a big factor in buying the sportage.

bill.
 
Yeah, I can relate. They gave me a grand for my 92 Elantra with 288K on it, and another thousand off for customer loyalty, then they gave me free financing for three years, presumably to get a 1 and a half old "new" (16 miles) vehicle off the lot. It's had a few hinky issues, the dealer has cleaned em up, and i'm 10K past the last trouble. I'm hoping it settles down and runs. Jeez, ya maintain them to a t, follow the schedules, drive em easy, this one pretty much interstate/parkway/road miles, and early on, it had a LOT of troubles. Hopefully they're fixed up, but if not, I'll drop it like a hot potato. I know what it cost the stealer to fix it over and over, I don't wish to assume those costs if it ain't cheap to keep. That'd be too bad, it fits me inside, does what I need, and is dirt cheap insurance, fuel and oil-wise.

Good luck with it. Remember, while you're under the tyranny of the warranty, keep your receipts, follow the schedule, and by the end of the warranty, you'll know if it's worth (or not worth) keeping. Meanwhile, give them no excuses to F with you. Best advice I ever got was from the folks right here, because they tried, inquired, and I nailed em with my receipts. THEN they paid.
 
Kia and Hyundai use a low silicate conventional coolant.

This means it's compatible with most of the current green coolants.

Another choice is the G-05 long-life coolant used in Chrysler, Mercedes, Ford, and some others. In order to use this you need to do a thorough flush to get rid of the conventional coolant.
 
low silicate conventional? Ya think they throw a little OAT in there, too? I couldn't get Hyundai USA, the dealer, or anyone else to tell me what the chemistry is in these cars. Truthfully, when I asked them at both ends, they were unaware that there is a difference in chemistry. Both said coolant is coolant. So by the manual, "A high-quality ethylene glycol" could be DexCool, a Super-tech DexCool unlicensed clone, G-05, Prestone 5/150 or any other syrup you'd want to throw in there. I did real well with DexCool in my last Hyundai, but have lost two water pumps in 58,000 miles first on G-05 and after that, the Dealer syrup.. Since I couldn't get a straight answer out of any of em, I flushed it clear through and through and went 60/40 Prestone 5/150 yellow and distilled water. I find it remarkable that the dealers are so ignorant of these things.
 
Originally Posted By: toocrazy2yoo
low silicate conventional? Ya think they throw a little OAT in there, too? I couldn't get Hyundai USA, the dealer, or anyone else to tell me what the chemistry is in these cars. Truthfully, when I asked them at both ends, they were unaware that there is a difference in chemistry. Both said coolant is coolant. So by the manual, "A high-quality ethylene glycol" could be DexCool, a Super-tech DexCool unlicensed clone, G-05, Prestone 5/150 or any other syrup you'd want to throw in there. I did real well with DexCool in my last Hyundai, but have lost two water pumps in 58,000 miles first on G-05 and after that, the Dealer syrup.. Since I couldn't get a straight answer out of any of em, I flushed it clear through and through and went 60/40 Prestone 5/150 yellow and distilled water. I find it remarkable that the dealers are so ignorant of these things.


Wow...What were the causes of water pump failure both times?
 
The pumps were leaking. Not blown out, but drip-drip. The first one, I complained that the level was dropping. I lost maybe a pint and a half over a weeks' time (that was September of last year). They replaced it. At the time, the car was on G-05. Then in March of this year, they were replacing the alternator, and the guy said it was leaking through the shaft seal. That was the dealer syrup. This time, I drained the dealer syrup they put in after the second pump, flushed it clear and installed Prestone 5/150 Yellow. So far, nice and tight.

Water pumps are like Alternators and starters I guess. The replacement can fail as surely as the old one. I have no idea why they failed, nor did the Stealer, but I won't blame the coolants. But I am moving away from any coolant that was in it when last the pump fails. This is nervous-making to me, because the car is almost out of warranty, and a water pump replacement involves removing the timing belt, making it an expensive proposition.

This car sat on the lot well over a year, brand new, when I bought it, so the first one I sort of understand, but the second pump had just over 10,000 miles on it and that it failed so quickly makes me a little nervous. No service bulletins or recalls have come out, so I must just be "lucky". Why it failed, I have no idea.
 
I have a "07 Sonata 2.4, and I have also asked the Service Manager what is in the car....their response..." regular antifreeze "...they really have no clue...My thought is to buy the Hyundai coolant, only if it says Hyundai, and use it...if not I would try Peak regular antifreeze...I believe there is regular low silicate green in there now...ps- I have also had very good luck using max life green as a substitute when changing older cars with green already in them.
 
Hyundai doesn't have a Hyundai-branded coolant, they use some kind of generic stuff out of a tank, and a generic brand from parts if you actually went in there for a gallon. Same for their oil. 10W-30 this week, 5W20 next week, 5W30 last week. The dated delivery stickers are on their tank out back. What's cheap is what they buy on a given delivery. It's a commodity, they're on a budget, and that's that.
 
Actually, there is a Hyundai branded coolant. I saw a gallon of it at my local dealer. Selling for around $12/gallon. It did not say what the chemistry was on the bottle, but it did say "Hyundai Genuine Antifreeze/Coolant" right on the gallon container.

As for me, I have been using Supertech coolant in my Sonata for the last 50k miles. I didn't do a flush before using it, just drained and refilled. Planning to change it every 30k. In my Santa Fe, I flushed with water last fall and used G-05 in it. I also have a 06 Kia Sedona, it only has 28k miles but I plan to change at 30k miles with green silicated stuff, probably Texaco or Peak. Don't know why different stuff in each, maybe just to see if there is any difference in results.
 
update -

i picked up a gallon of KIA brand long life coolant at the dealer.

on the back label is the following info:
"KIA long life antifreeze/coolant is an ethylene glycol based product for long-lasting corrosion and rust protection of all cooling system component metals, including aluminum. KIA long life antifreeze/coolant requires no additional corrosion inhibitors."

"contains no amines, no silicates that may harm pump seals, and no borates that may cause corrosion or pitting."

it cost $19.50 a gallon and yes, it's green.

bill.
 
I've had 4 new Kia's, I just use whatever green coolant I like and call it a day. Sold 1, traded 2 and I still have the 4th with over 43k miles now. I dump and fill yearly on this 1, 25k miles per year. You keep on buying that $19 a gallon coolant and I'll use whatever is in the garage at the moment.
 
My selling dealer used Texaco coolant (the standard green stuff)- I watched him top off my 05 Elantra myself with it. It's the same stuff you can get at any auto parts joint for $7 or $8 per gallon.

I mixed 50/50 with deionized water and changed mine out a couple of months ago. I didn't power flush, but ran just deionized water thru the system 3 or 4 times till it ran clear - then added the 50/50 mix.

Been doing fine since then.
 
Originally Posted By: toocrazy2yoo [/quote




Old advice is still the BEST advice, I don't care how many manufacturers tell us coolant is good for 150,000 miles. You should raise the hood every other fill-up, check the oil, make sure the overflow tank goes up and down with the hot/cold cycles of the engine (learn the levels and observe, this is the best indicator of trouble), and pop the radiator cap off when the car is cold once every month or two, take a peek at the tubes and ensure the level is to the top of the neck, and that's all you can do. It's also the least you ought to do if you want to avoid trouble. Simple concepts, these, but even with better cars and longer maintenance intervals, I still trust only my own eyes.


Good advice!
 
Originally Posted By: fxs


"contains no amines, no silicates that may harm pump seals, and no borates that may cause corrosion or pitting."



So, with no amines and no silicates, does this mean it's likely similar chemistry to Honda and Toyota coolants? What would be an aftermarket equivalent to this chemistry?
 
sambojoho,

i'm guessing it's similar to any of the low silicate coolants. someone here will have a more definitive answer i'm sure.

i do my own routine maintenance and the dealer(out of town - 100 mi. away)is o.k. with that as long as i can provide receipts for parts used while it's under warranty. i bit the bullet and bought their brand of coolant to cover my a** in the event of any water pump problems. oil, filters, and other fluids are my call.
 
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