Hi I'm new to the site and it really is loaded with info, thanks. I did a search here but really can't find an answer i'm looking for. I have an 04 silverado with the 5.3l v8. It has now 13k on the odometer. I changed the factory oils at 3k with valvoline 5w30, and a pure one filter. Did the same at 8k. Now at 8k I switched to m1 5w30 and an ac delco filter. My goal is to go through the oil life monitoring system now for oil changes. From what I can estimate it would want you to change oil at around 10k miles. I assume the combo I used this time will be o.k. for 10k? Also I noticed, and it could just be my imagination, that there seems to be a small amount of valve train noise. Has anyone else noticed this with m1 or ac delco filters?
5.3 liter chevy and oil question
- Thread starter slimjim
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sorry made a mistake, now at 13k i switched to m1 and the ac delco filter
You can safely rely on the Oil Life Monitor provided you are using a good quality dino (or synthetic). It actually does a quite sophisticated calculation based on engine temps, running times etc. In other words it's already making allowances for your driving style...
In my case (mostly 30+ mile trips, mostly freeway), it generally goes about 9K miles, I know people for whom it only goes 4K miles (lots of stop and go short trips). It assumes a good quality dino, it won't allow any longer with synthetic but you might have greater peace of mind with synthetic if you're still a victim of the 3,000 mile OCI advertising.
In my case (mostly 30+ mile trips, mostly freeway), it generally goes about 9K miles, I know people for whom it only goes 4K miles (lots of stop and go short trips). It assumes a good quality dino, it won't allow any longer with synthetic but you might have greater peace of mind with synthetic if you're still a victim of the 3,000 mile OCI advertising.
but what about the valve ticking, anyone notice this with m1 or ac delco filter. I'm not really committed to synthetic, but what would be a good dino if I go with the oil life monitoring system. I used valvoline and was pretty happ with it. I might be a little nervous about going 7.5k to 9k on a dino.
I understand that mine is a "minority report", but I am not a fan of extended oil changes, especially when using dino juice. I think it is real mistake to go that many miles, especially on mineral based oils. Oil is cheap and cars are expensive is my motto. Just my 2 ppm....
I have the same engine in my '04 Avalanche and have used the following oils: what came in it with the AC Delco filter; Syntec 5w-30 and 10w-30, with Napa Gold and K&N filters; M1 5w-30 with Napa Gold or AC (I forget which); and Kendall GT-1 full synthetic with Napa Gold and K&N filters.
I live in Northern Calif. and so can fall within the 10w-30 temps. I like the way it runs with the Kendall the best. Same basic oil pressure readings with the Napa or K&N filters (slightly higher idle pressure with the Napa). I get no startup noise, even when abient temps are below freezing.
I did notice the engine was generally "noisier" when using the M1 5w-30. Also, I did *not* get better mileage with the lighter weight oil. If you like M1 (and I think it is good oil and easy to find) I would try the 10w-30 if your ambient temps can allow it.
After reading many posts and data on BITOG regarding oil filters, I am inclined to think that flow is as important as filtration. Many people have experienced excellent UOA's with high flow/good filtration units (such as K&N) and it seems to me that these types of filters are beneficial because they get oil moving more quickly under startup.
Again, just my 2ppm.....
Best of luck.
Bob W.
I don't think it would be wise to "assume" that M1 5W-30 with the AC-Delco can go 10K. I would probably go 6K oci, then do a 2nd 6K oci and get a uoa on it. The uoa will give you a good indicator at that point. I think keeping the insolubles in check will be the main issue with this combination and engine.
It all depends on how you drive. The oil change indicator on my dads Yukon comes on about 7K. On my truck it sees mostly short trips,and comes on between 3000-3500 miles. My Brothers new Z-71 had the light come on for the first time at 4800 miles. He had already done 2 oil changes to get rid of the factory fill and flush any metal out of the new engine. Since then the light has come on about 4K ea. time.
Like slimjim, I am new to this site and also recently changed over to Mobil 1 oil in our Silverado. We have a 2001 Silverado with the 5.3L engine. I changed the oil for the first time at 500 miles with Motorcraft 10W-30 and a Napa Gold filter and then again at 3K miles and ever 3K after that and always with Motorcraft 10W-30 and a Napa Gold filter. At the 18K mile mark I changed to Mobil 1 SuperSyn 10W-30 and still a Napa Gold filter. We also noticed a slight valve train noise that was never there before. Also our oil pressure went from 45 psi to 38 psi at a hot idle, the psi at highway speeds stayed the same at 60 psi. I drove the truck for 22 miles and then drained the Mobil 1 and went back to Motorcraft and a new Napa Gold oil filter, the noise is gone and the oil pressure is back where it had been. I had also put Mobil 1 in our Lincoln with the 4.6L engine the same day but did not drive it, just warmed it up and changed it back to Motorcraft and a Motorcraft oil filter as always, so I do not know if it was going to make any noise.
I am just curious to know if anyone else with a G.M. 5.3L engine has had the same or any other different noise after switching to Mobil 1 oil.
I am just curious to know if anyone else with a G.M. 5.3L engine has had the same or any other different noise after switching to Mobil 1 oil.
You might try a thicker oil like M1 0W-40 "European Formula", M1 T&S 5W-40 or Castrol Syntec (German) 0W-30. All of these oils are proven in the LS1 based engines. I also have never heard of these oils being over-extended when the OCM recommended a change. However a UOA is always a good idea because excessive blow-by, faulty EGR, or Anti-freeze leak could always deplete the oil.
Many believe the LS1 based engines ie 4800, 5300, LS1, LS6, 6000, LS2 like a bit heavier oil than the M1 30 weight (It is at the low end of 30 weight) based on Used Oil Analysis.
Many have noticed the increased valvetrain noise with M1 30 Weight.
Gene
Many believe the LS1 based engines ie 4800, 5300, LS1, LS6, 6000, LS2 like a bit heavier oil than the M1 30 weight (It is at the low end of 30 weight) based on Used Oil Analysis.
Many have noticed the increased valvetrain noise with M1 30 Weight.
Gene
I have the same vehicle and engine combination, a 2004 Silverado 4.3. I started using Havoline 5W-30 (made by Chevron we all assume) and have not had any unusual noises or valve ticking, or even the dreaded "piston slap" of earlier designs. In fact it seems to like this oil very much. I plan on using the GM OLM and am pretty sure my interval will end up around 7500 mile OCI. When comparing GMOLM intervals please be aware that the programming is different on different years and engines. A 1999 Northstar, for example, will "max out" at about 7500 mile regardless of driving style, but a 2000 Northstar will Max about 10 or 12,000. My daily commute is about 8 miles in a rural city driving situation, Max speed 45 mph, and very little regular highway use.
Sorry, I meant 5.3L.
I have seen posts here stating that increased noise doesn`t necessarily mean increased wear. Some oils transmit sound better than others.UOA`S are the only true test IMHO.My 4.8 is on a diet of 10/30-15/50 mix of Mobil 1 which seems to be working well for what its worth. I`m running 14k OCI`s with the help of Lube Control.
My experience so far with my 5.3 was no increase in noise when using M1 5w30,RP 5w30 but there was some increase in noise when switching to GC 0w30,will see what the second uoa shows.I know some people mistaken injector noise for valve train noise and took my truck back to the dealer when I thought the valves were ticking and was told that it was just injector noise. I am following the recommendations of the guru's here and using a heavier 30 weight oil for my truck,still deciding wether to stick with GC or try some M1 0w40 or even a 10w40 in the summer heat. FWIW I do not use the OLM,oci is 5-6k for me,and one thing I will say,stay away from M1 filters as they don't seem to be worth the extra $$$$..
This 5.3L engine noise with M1 appears to be a sporadic problem, as some Silverado, Tahoe, & GMC owners report noise & others have no problem.
Valve train noise and piston slap or cold start knock are all separate noise issues, but regardless, the blanket solution is to stay away from PAO synthetics.
My 99 5.3L Silverado 4X4 knocks for a 5-10 second span about 20 seconds after starting, but only on the first start in the morning. I ran M1 10W-30 last winter & was really frustrated with the amount of noise.
Currently, with Citgo 10W-30 Grp III synthetic, the knock is greatly reduced to the point where I really have to listen to hear it.
I believe it was Eddyzima who reported similar results with Castro Syntec Grp III. As soon as we get away from the cold winter temps, I'd like to run Shell Rotella 5W-40 syn and see the effect of a higher viscosity & HTHS Grp III oil.
Valve train noise and piston slap or cold start knock are all separate noise issues, but regardless, the blanket solution is to stay away from PAO synthetics.
My 99 5.3L Silverado 4X4 knocks for a 5-10 second span about 20 seconds after starting, but only on the first start in the morning. I ran M1 10W-30 last winter & was really frustrated with the amount of noise.
Currently, with Citgo 10W-30 Grp III synthetic, the knock is greatly reduced to the point where I really have to listen to hear it.
I believe it was Eddyzima who reported similar results with Castro Syntec Grp III. As soon as we get away from the cold winter temps, I'd like to run Shell Rotella 5W-40 syn and see the effect of a higher viscosity & HTHS Grp III oil.
Bambam - Some members have zero problems running M1 in these engines and have no complaints with noise.
My comment was intended to point out that experimenting with filters or a heavier viscosity, such as blending M1 5W-30 & M1 15W-50, will not entirely correct the noise problem. If your 5.3L has noise with M1, my suggestion is to stay with dino based oils.
In general, the U.S. market PAO's are M1 and Amsoil.
My comment was intended to point out that experimenting with filters or a heavier viscosity, such as blending M1 5W-30 & M1 15W-50, will not entirely correct the noise problem. If your 5.3L has noise with M1, my suggestion is to stay with dino based oils.
In general, the U.S. market PAO's are M1 and Amsoil.
Mobil 1 is pretty much the only US Major that still uses the Expensive Group IV PAO in their synthetics. Of course many of the smaller niche companies like Amsoil, Redline, Torco, Synergen,etc still use PAO.
Everyone else has pretty much followed Castrols lead to the Cheaper Group III Hydrocracked Petroleum Base stock in their synthetics.
I would try Castrol Syntec 5W-30 if you want to try a commonly available Group III.
If you want to try a thicker Group III come summer Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic 10W-30 is on the thick end for a Group III 10W-30.
Gene
Everyone else has pretty much followed Castrols lead to the Cheaper Group III Hydrocracked Petroleum Base stock in their synthetics.
I would try Castrol Syntec 5W-30 if you want to try a commonly available Group III.
If you want to try a thicker Group III come summer Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic 10W-30 is on the thick end for a Group III 10W-30.
Gene
I have a 04 Chevy Express with the 5.3. It has 12500 miles on it. I switched out the factory oil at 1000 miles.A little longer than what I wanted but I was traveling. I have since changed the oil and filter with Castrol 5w30 and a Powerflow filter every 3000 miles. My last change I went with M1 10/30, same filter. My last UOA sample did not come back to good. I am really looking forward to my next test. My oil pressure since going to M1 has increased and I have had no difference in noises from the engine compartment.
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