Spike Delo 400 with STP?

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What do yall think about spiking Delo 400LE, the new formulation, with some STP to boost the zddp level back up? I would think half a bottle of the blue would be enough with a five quart oil change.
 
It won't make a big change. STP Blue contains 'about' 2000 ppm on Zink...in a 5 quart sump, the whole bottle will only bump the zinc count, what, 100 ppm, if that?

There are better sources for Zinc..but I don't know which ones are availiable...they see to come and go off the market a lot...
 
To my knowledge the synthetic 5w40's have more zinc already than the 15w40 grades and you may want to switch to them. I use the Delo 5w40 myself but Rotella T and Mobil 1 TDT are easy to find at Wal Mart.
 
Delo doesn't need to be spiked or thicker... right. Why do some feel the need to take away from an already top performer? Just because the new CJ4 has less ZDDP doesn't mean it is any less effective- even supposed to be lower wear.
 
I'll have to go back and re-read about the STP. I thought even the blue bottle had more zinc than that.

Also make a note to self: find VOA on 5w40 syn.
Good tip!

I'm running the Delo in all my old flat tappet gas burners. What else are they putting in there to functionally replace the zinc? I've heard it now has 100ppm Moly. Is that enough to offset?
 
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Originally Posted By: RubbinIsRacin
I'm running the Delo in all my old flat tappet gas burners. What else are they putting in there to functionally replace the zinc? I've heard it now has 100ppm Moly. Is that enough to offset?


Why do you think the zinc in Delo is too low in the first place? Offset what?
 
They upped the Boron considerably and lowered the Moly- did kind of a 180 from the CI4+. But I wouldn't worry about it being any less effective.
 
Based on reports that they've lowered the zinc to meet the emissions requirements for the ULSD engines. I got that information from numerous posts on this site.

Currently I'm running the Delo as-is, with no additives. And it may be a dumb idea to add STP, but I want to keep the zinc level up for these older flat tappet engines.
 
I studied this ZDDP issue about 6 months ago. I have a 1979 Chrysler slant six 225 flat tappet engine. I'm of the opinion that ZDDP is beneficial in these older engines,esp. ones with "heavy"(ie iron,not aluminum),valve trains,higher spring pressure,and mechanical lifters. The STP red bottle has more zinc than the blue.I think it is being dicontinued,but there is still some around. SLOB is probably all gone from Big Lots.GM ENGINE OIL SUPPLEMENT is an option,but is $10. a pint.If it's not necessary, why does Crane and others recommend it when installing a camshaft? 99% of people do not drive a 30 year old car,and do not seem to understand our dilema.Hope this helps.THX.
 
Originally Posted By: junebug
I studied this ZDDP issue about 6 months ago. I have a 1979 Chrysler slant six 225 flat tappet engine. I'm of the opinion that ZDDP is beneficial in these older engines,esp. ones with "heavy"(ie iron,not aluminum),valve trains,higher spring pressure,and mechanical lifters. The STP red bottle has more zinc than the blue.I think it is being dicontinued,but there is still some around. SLOB is probably all gone from Big Lots.GM ENGINE OIL SUPPLEMENT is an option,but is $10. a pint.If it's not necessary, why does Crane and others recommend it when installing a camshaft? 99% of people do not drive a 30 year old car,and do not seem to understand our dilema.Hope this helps.THX.
Back when I was doing the cam change game, I talked with some local tweaks, and one engine builder. Some used STP, and GM's EOS for the cam and lifter game. I was not aware of anyone recommending this stuff for breaking in a new cam. All I ever saw from the cam grinders was a moly paste that was used for initial break in while the surfaces mated. Most grinders recommended that the engine not run under 1500 rpm for the first fifteen minutes with the rpm varying during that critical break in period. It was important to vary the rpm as the cam was splash oiled, and different rpms put the oil in different places. Most well read oil fanatics will tell you not to use additives as you may upset the additive package. I tend to agree. The grinders also stated that if the cam survived the first fifteen minutes, it would probably live a very long life. I hope this helps.
 
I haven't been using it for cam break in. I use the moly EP stuff that comes with it or that I've bought. I've used EOS too but didn't on the last two.

The initial start and first couple of minutes make or break the deal, like you said. I always have everything ready and prelube as the last step using an old distributor that I modified. Haven't had any problems with cams in years and years.
 
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