Toyota 4.7 liter V8 oil questions

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Messages
114
Location
nj
Great site, just found it! Love oil and the discussion of oil...........
Anway, just purchased an 05 tundra with the 4.7 liter v8, an engine I am not very familiar with. I just did the first oil and filter change at 1500 miles, using Valvoline all weather 10w30(I know, I know, but it was cheap in the gallon and will only be in for 1500 miles, and pure1 filter).
I plan to do another change at 3000 miles, using pure1 filter and possiby penzoil 10w30. Let that run the next 3000 miles till 6000, do change with penzoil/pure1 till 9000 miles, THEN use mobil1 synthetic 10w30 starting at the 9000 miles.
I would go 7500 mile drain interval and filter change, still using a pure1 filter with the mobil1.
My driving is a mix of highway and city driving, sitting in traffic for 30 minutes every morning is the norm, stop and go the whole way, for 10 miles. Same thing on the way home, 1 hr mix of stop and go, and some 50mph stretches.
With all of what I stated, would I be ok with the mobil1 10w30 and 7500 miles intervals in this engine?
I've used everything in the past, ranging from dino oil/fram filter(before I knew better) on my 275,000 mile toyota 22re pickup engine its whole life, to amsoil 10w30 with amsoil sdf filter in my toyota land cruiser 1fze engine at 177,000 when sold. I also used the amsoil in my xterra but have gone to mobil1 syn 10w30 since its easier to get, using a variety of filters like amsoil, pure1, and wix. To be honest, I dont know which is best.
Will the mobil1 hold up in this engine for that amount of time? I dont want to be bothered with analysis all the time, I would just rather change the oil then.
Thanks
joe
 
Is 10-30 ok to use in this engine?
I have a '04 tundra and the owners manual says
5-30 only, all temps.
Check your owners manual 10-30 may void your warranty.
 
First off
welcome.gif


Second if that was my new Toyota I would'nt feel comfortable going to 7500 without a uoa but thats just me. Some others that have been around here longer may tell you otherwise. You would be fine going 5000 oci and if I had just spent that kind of money that is what I would do. The valvoline is a good oil and is also a great oil for break-in I think. Wise choice on the Pennzoil 10w-30 thats what I am using with a 3000/3 mo oci in my new truck. I get the added bonus of a 250000/10yr warranty from Pennzoil. Enjoy the new ride.

P.S. My parents just bought an 04 this summer, the SR5 with leather seats and it sure is nice.
 
quote:

Originally posted by thinshavings:
Is 10-30 ok to use in this engine?
I have a '04 tundra and the owners manual says
5-30 only, all temps.
Check your owners manual 10-30 may void your warranty.


No, it states a 10w30 may be used in place of the 5w30, but replace with 5w30 at the next change. Yea right, 5w30 is just recommended for better mpg and less emissions. Just my opinion.
 
Joe,
I own a 2001 Sequoia with a 4.7l V8. I have never noticed a poor used oil analysis with ANY oil on this engine so your plans to eventually use Mobil 1 and 7,500 mile intervals should work great. While I feel Mobil 1 5w-30 should be adequate at any temperature, my owner's manual shows that it is ok to use 10w-30 at any temperature over zero degrees F. Your 2005 owner's manual may read differently. Review of several used oil analysis posted on this web site suggests that Super Syn Mobil 1 5w-30 should work great, even in the summer months. With reasonable care, your engine will likely last longer than you care to keep the vehicle. Of course, you already know this as you have experience with Toyotas!

Stan
 
Hi. Welcome to BITOG!
I see that you live in NJ. 5W-xx oil should help with cold start-ups, compared to 10W-xx oil. Overall, I think that you should use what the Owner's Manual tells you. There is no problem using modern 5W-xx oil, in case you are worried that it is too thin....

I don't understand your Dino oil break-in strategy. Why not just switch to M1 at approx 5000 miles, and then change the oil and filter every ~5000 miles or ~6 months? You should see even better cold start-up protection with Synth due to its faster pump-up and better cold-flow characteristics.

You have a great truck - enjoy!
 
quote:

Originally posted by SWS:
Hi. Welcome to BITOG!
I see that you live in NJ. 5W-xx oil should help with cold start-ups, compared to 10W-xx oil. Overall, I think that you should use what the Owner's Manual tells you. There is no problem using modern 5W-xx oil, in case you are worried that it is too thin....

I don't understand your Dino oil break-in strategy. Why not just switch to M1 at approx 5000 miles, and then change the oil and filter every ~5000 miles or ~6 months? You should see even better cold start-up protection with Synth due to its faster pump-up and better cold-flow characteristics.

You have a great truck - enjoy!


Well about the 5w30 vs 10w30, I can see a diff. on the oil gauge using the 10w30 at idle, and at highway. I know Im wrong, and the 5w's are fine, but I think a 10w30 wouldnt hurt, but I am looking for opinions, so thanks!
Break in stratedgy is to get all the junk out of the engine. Wouldnt want to spend the money on syn to dump it so quick. And yes, I know the filter gets most, but I want to get everything out before I go to the l onger drains.
Thanks for everyones responses so far.
Joe
 
Hi,

Nice truck. You may want to check what you have to do to keep the 60k warrenty in place.

My 2005 Toyota passport (which covers all Toyotas including yours) states oil changes Must happen no longer than every 6 months or 5,000 miles whichever comes first.
smile.gif


So, for the first 60k miles, your on the 5,000 OCI.

My useage is 90% highway miles (62 miles one way with no stop and go) and the rest assorted stuff.
I'm going to change prob at 4k miles with Pennzoil Dino.

I changed at 1k with Pennzoil, 3k with Castrol Syntec Blend and I doubt I can go 5k miles OCI (Its me, not the oil/car...
pat.gif
)

Enjoy the outfit! I like my 2005. (Got my worst MPG today in 4,500 miles...
shocked.gif
)

It was only 38.65 mpg....
biggthumbcoffe.gif


Take care, bill
patriot.gif
 
Welcome. A couple of thoughts. First, check out this link to the first UOA I posted here. This is a sample taken from my wife's 2001 Sequoia, which also has the 4.7L V-8. Search to see some other 2UZ-FE UOA results. You will find that this engine is very easy on oil and/or itself. Oh yeah, this sample is M1. Right now, I'm running GC (German Castrol) and will post another UOA in a month or so.

Second, use of 10w-30 will not "void your warranty." In fact, there is essentially no such thing as "voiding a warranty." If you have a problem with your car during the wty period, you make a claim for a repair. If the car maker wishes to deny this claim, they must be prepared to prove that something that's not their responsibility caused the problem. Sure, if you use a SAE 60 wt oil during the middle of an Alaskan winter, they may succeed in meeting this burden. But let's say that in addition to your engine tearing itself up on the 60 wt oil, your radio goes out too. They still have to fix the radio under wty since your use of 60wt molasses did not cause the radio to fail. In other words, the wty is not void even though an earlier claim under it has been denied. I have used 10w-30 in our 4.7, and you can not tell the difference, at least where I live.
cheers.gif
 
I use 10W30 Amsoil in my 2001 Tundra and 2002 Sequoia. Both engines got oil changes with 10W30 Mobil dino at 500, 1000, 3000. The Amsoil synthetic went in at 5000. I change now every season, about every 4 months/7000 miles. Mileage continued to increase until around 15000, at that time I considered the motor "broken-in." The 10W30 synthetic works well in these motors based on my experience (65K on both now with both having really strong motors with zippo oil consumption (6.5 in/6.5 out)).
 
My Mother has an 03 Tundra 4.7,Access cab,4x4,TRD etc.... I use M1 10W30 in it in the winter and 15W50 in it the rest of the year. I also have been useing M1 ATF every 15,000 miles.

In her manual it list 5W30 as preffered but states that 10W30 can be used if 5W30 is not available. It also states that you should resume with 5W30 at next available oil change.

To date her Tundra is getting along just fine on a diet of M1 10W30 and M1 15W50. Remember I live in Michigan we see temp.'s down to about -20F and as high as 95F if 10W30 was going to kill it I think it would died by now!

My 2003 Camry has seen 10W30,15W40,5W40 and 0W30. The 5W40 was Redline Synthetic and it saw -18F temp.'s last year.

My Fathers Tacoma uses a diet of M1 15W50 and 10W30 since 1995 and it too is a happy Camper!
 
As others have said this engine shows great wear numbers on almost any oil. One person here said it's a "$10K engine in a $25K truck!" More like $35K for a lot of the Tundras.

You'll have no problems running 7500 mile changes with a synthetic like M1, Amsoil, GC, etc.
 
Okay, here's my $0.02 and My Sequioa UOA thread . As you will see, excellent results. My wife drives about 25-30K yearly; I use M1 10W30 in Florida's year-round summer with a Pure One filter and a 7,500 mile OCI.

Can't go wrong unless you change the oil every 3K... if you do, you'll be spending (wasting) too much money. If memory serves me right, the 2002 Sequioa manual stated oil change intervals of 5K (severe service) and 7.5K (non-severe). The only negative comment I can make is the low 16mpg average we get on this truck.
 
quote:

Originally posted by JeepZJ4.0:
So this is kind of off topic but is this engine the same one as the past 4.7L V8s? It now has VVT-i, making 282hp.

My understanding is that it is the same engine, just with VVT-i heads on it, and of course, recalibrated accordingly. We don't tow with our Sequoia, and I can see how someone who does might find fault with the earlier version's torque curve, but for us it's still an A+ engine. It's velvet smooth, sounds great, and turns in absurdly good UOA results as a bonus.
cheers.gif
 
Hello I will give you my 2 cents. I have owned a total of 3 vehicle with this engine. 2 Tundras and currently a 4runner.
I have always ran the factory oil for 1000k miles. I then switched to M1 5w30 with Toyota filter, using a 5k mile change interval. I drove my first Tundra for 126k miles with perfect UOA results. THe 2nd Tundra I drove for 70K miles before I sold it to my brother. Again perfect results using M1 5w30. In my 4Runner I am running 10w30 M1. I have 33k miles on it, my Blackstone reports come back perfect. This engine is so easy on engine oil.
 
I have a question----if the manufacturer calls for 5W30, what are you trying to gain by going with a 10W30? Is there any evidence that a heavier weight synthetic oil gives more engine protection under high temps? My understanding (pretty limited, I will admit)is that a heavier weight oil will reduce consumption if your engine is prone to using oil. But if oil consumption is not a problem, what is intended benefit you are seeking?

FYI, I have a Lexus V8 4.0 and have used M1 and Amsoil 0W30 for the colder months, 5W30 for the summer months, so am interested in whatever theory might be behind a 10W30 being better in a Toyota V8.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Win Dixie:
I have a question----if the manufacturer calls for 5W30, what are you trying to gain by going with a 10W30? Is there any evidence that a heavier weight synthetic oil gives more engine protection under high temps? My understanding (pretty limited, I will admit)is that a heavier weight oil will reduce consumption if your engine is prone to using oil. But if oil consumption is not a problem, what is intended benefit you are seeking?

FYI, I have a Lexus V8 4.0 and have used M1 and Amsoil 0W30 for the colder months, 5W30 for the summer months, so am interested in whatever theory might be behind a 10W30 being better in a Toyota V8.


At least with respect to the Mobil products, the 10w-30 is NOT thicker than the 5w-30. They are, according to Mobil's website, 30 wts with almost the same cSt rating at temperature. True, the 10w does not have to pass as stringent a CCS test as the 5w, but on the other hand, it has some other things going for it, such as a significantly higher flash point. In hot operating conditions, this may be a factor in consumption, which some Mobil users have observed with the 5w product, but not the 10w. I've used both down here on the Gulf Coast, and in our Sequoia's predecessor car (a 1990, 3.0L Merc Sable wagon), I did experience some consumption with both, more severe with the 5w.

Remember that the "Xw-" part of the multi-vis rating is not really a viscosity reference at all. It refers only to an oil's ability to pass certain cold cranking sim tests. Thus, where a weaker "thin" oil begins forming crystals and solidifying at a higher temp than a "thicker" oil that stays liquid at colder temps, you may actually see, for example, a 5w oil that's truly "thicker" than a 10w, and vice versa.
 
Joe,
I run Scheaffer 5W-30 in the winter and 15W-40 in my Tundra in the summer. Both show excellent analysis...about 1½ ppm of wear iron per 1000 miles.

In your case, I'd use the 5W-30 in your winter and 10W-30 in the summer. You will get better oil flow inside the engine during those times in the winter when the oil isn't all that hot. The coolant temp gauge is at the normal mark, but the oil isn't very hot for much of our winter driving.

Stick to the owner's manual oil drain intervals unless you do analysis. This protects your warranty.


Ken
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top