I have a liking to the old 94 body style, so when I saw a real nice shape 351 4 wheel drive for sale I could not pass it up. It has 120,000 on the clock and the motor was very clean on the outside and the oil change records looked good. I have no experience with the 351 and long term durability. What weight oil does this higher mileage motor like? Any info. is appreciated.
1994 ford 351 windsor questions
- Thread starter RedOak
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What oil did the previous owner use ? If the engine seems clean
and there are no leaking or burning issues, then use what they used. If you don't have this info I'd start with any of the brand name conventional oils in either 10w-30 or 5w-30. If you
suspect there may be some issues then perhaps you will want to go with one of the high mileage oils but stay with the same grade. Valvoline Maxlife 10w-30 seems to be a great default oil for older engines with an unknown history, but get the blend, not the full syn.
SS
2000 Honda Accord 3.0
2004 Honda Pilot 3.5
Mobil Clean 5000 / Pure One
and there are no leaking or burning issues, then use what they used. If you don't have this info I'd start with any of the brand name conventional oils in either 10w-30 or 5w-30. If you
suspect there may be some issues then perhaps you will want to go with one of the high mileage oils but stay with the same grade. Valvoline Maxlife 10w-30 seems to be a great default oil for older engines with an unknown history, but get the blend, not the full syn.
SS
2000 Honda Accord 3.0
2004 Honda Pilot 3.5
Mobil Clean 5000 / Pure One
I have a 93 F-150 with a 351W in it. Ford's retro active spec calls for 5W-20. Let see...I ran Mobil 1 SUV 10W-30 in it, Amsoil ASL 5W-30, Amsoil HDD 5W-30 and now run Amsoil ASM 0W-20. I have 123k on mine. I would use a 5W-20, 5W-30 or 0W-20 oil.
From what I hear they are pretty bullet proof engines, and preferred over the 5.0L, esp in trucks.
From what I hear they are pretty bullet proof engines, and preferred over the 5.0L, esp in trucks.
Originally Posted By: XPR
From what I hear they are pretty bullet proof engines, and preferred over the 5.0L, esp in trucks.
Much larger main bearings. I'd look into a new timing chain and gears at that much milage with one.
From what I hear they are pretty bullet proof engines, and preferred over the 5.0L, esp in trucks.
Much larger main bearings. I'd look into a new timing chain and gears at that much milage with one.
Right. The timing chain should be replaced as a preventative measure. If it has nylon coated gears, they break off and plug the oil pickup, starve the bearings, and puke the motor. Old and dry valve seals can break apart and do the same thing.
I really do not want to put a timing chain and gears on if not needed. The motor starts easily and sounds very smooth. 120,000 miles is really not that high mileage. I expect it to go 225,000 plus. Ford engines are very durable.
My brother has the same set up with over 350000 miles and no engine work. He uses NAPA 10w-30 with NAPA gold.
No
Originally Posted By: RedOak
I really do not want to put a timing chain and gears on if not needed. The motor starts easily and sounds very smooth. 120,000 miles is really not that high mileage. I expect it to go 225,000 plus. Ford engines are very durable.
Putting in a timing chain and gears is very easy in that engine. I have seen the Nylon teeth stop the oil pump.
The small 1/4 or 5/16 oil pump driveshaft will spin like a candy cane!
I really do not want to put a timing chain and gears on if not needed. The motor starts easily and sounds very smooth. 120,000 miles is really not that high mileage. I expect it to go 225,000 plus. Ford engines are very durable.
Putting in a timing chain and gears is very easy in that engine. I have seen the Nylon teeth stop the oil pump.
The small 1/4 or 5/16 oil pump driveshaft will spin like a candy cane!
For what it is worth, I had the timing chain fail (stripped nylon sprocket teeth) at 186,000 miles on a 1984 E150 with a 302.
You will loose a timing chain. When it fails you will be stranded. You may have a little more time, but why take the risk.
I used 10W40 in that vehicle for most of it's life although I used 20W50 for a stretch where there was extreme commute miles (75,000 miles in 2 1/2 years). It was also before my enlightenment that thinner is better.
I agree that you should try to learn what the prior owner used. 5W30, 10W30, or 10W40 would be on my radar. 10W30 and 10W40 were the preferred viscosities when that engine was designed.
You will loose a timing chain. When it fails you will be stranded. You may have a little more time, but why take the risk.
I used 10W40 in that vehicle for most of it's life although I used 20W50 for a stretch where there was extreme commute miles (75,000 miles in 2 1/2 years). It was also before my enlightenment that thinner is better.
I agree that you should try to learn what the prior owner used. 5W30, 10W30, or 10W40 would be on my radar. 10W30 and 10W40 were the preferred viscosities when that engine was designed.
I would replace your gears and timing chains. You remember the saying a penny of prevention is worth a pound of cure. After that I would order some Auto-Rx for an clean and rise phase. Then I would use an quality 10W-30 with an either NAPA Gold or Motorcraft oil filter. That is my 2 cents.
Ditto on the timing chain/gears, and a look at the valve stem seals wouldn't hurt. Inexpensive insurance.
Those are definitely good engines. I ran Castrol GTX 10-30 in mine ('83 F150 4x4) for many, many miles.
Those are definitely good engines. I ran Castrol GTX 10-30 in mine ('83 F150 4x4) for many, many miles.
Thanks guys for all the help. I priced the timing chain and the gears for the crank and cam and they were only about 120.00 dollars. I will order them through Carquest. I just wonder how much the labor will be? I would hope no more that a couple hundred dollars.
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