Valvoline Pyroil Engine Flush

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Anybody tried this stuff? Sounds like a faster alternative to AutoRX -

Pyroil Engine Flush melts sludge and cleans engines in five minutes. It improves circulation, frees sticky valves and lifters and dissolves power-robbing deposits.

* Dissolves sludge
* Cleans engine in 5 minutes
* Opens restricted oil passages
* Frees sticky valves and lifters
* Improves oil circulation
* Dissolves power-robbing deposits
* Cleans sticky piston rings
* Reduces blowby

Part Number EF-30
Size 30 oz
UPC 28882-10028

How to Use

Add to crankcase and remove after 5 minutes.

How it Works

Some engine flushes are too strong and can plug critical oil passages with dislodged particles. Pyroil Engine Flush dissolves sludge gently.
 
Originally Posted By: glxpassat
Anybody tried this stuff? Sounds like a faster alternative to AutoRX -

* Cleans engine in 5 minutes

Some engine flushes are too strong and can plug critical oil passages with dislodged particles. Pyroil Engine Flush dissolves sludge gently.


Gently in 5 minutes huh... Is that kind of like a gentle blow to the face with a sledgehammer? Isn't pyroil the brand that is always the cheapest on the shelves and has many products? Fuel injector cleaner, etc. etc. I honestly don't remember but it seems like that is the one.
 
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Originally Posted By: saaber1
Gently in 5 minutes huh... Is that kind of like a gentle blow to the face with a sledgehammer?


That's what I was wondering, seems like it can't be very gentle if it does the deed in 5 minutes! I may call Valvoline and ask them about that.

30oz is a lot! I think I would tend to use it when the oil is cold so that it will not be as thin as when hot.
 
I have not used it.

However, I would question any "cleaning" product that works in such a short period. I suspect if it can break down deposits in such as short span, it's likely attacking everthing with the same ferver!

Since you raised the question specific to ARX, I'll say this: Why would you be in such as hurry to "clean" your engine? If you use ARX, and achieve stellar results (such as I did - see recent thread about Ford 3.0 Vulcan), and do it with just normal routine oil/filter changes, and use a product that compliments the operating environment, rather than attack it, why wouldn't you???

The thing that bugs me about most of these quick cleaners is that they are basically harsh solvents, and they attack everything in their path. ARX on the other hand, does not effect the host oil at all. It seeks out to change the molecular structure of the undesirable byproducts (gunk, sludge, coking, etc) and then it let's the engine oil and it's detergents do the work of removal, just as it was designed to do. That is why there is an application phase, and rinse phase, with ARX. Sure it takes longer, but it's a better method in my opinion, and the results are fantastic!
 
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I don't need it as far as I know, but there are many VW Passat owners with the 1.8T motor with sludge. They'll be driving down the road and the engine light comes on when the pickup screen gets blocked. I was thinking this might be a good solution for them since there is no way they can keep driving to do an ARX treatment. They typically have to take it to the dealer to have the engine cleaned out.
 
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I would counter with this thought. Most of the solvent based cleaners are to be used for very short intervals, maybe 5-10 minutes?

I know of one where a friend of mine used some. He said the process was to put the "cleaner" in a stone cold engine, operate it at idle only while in park, just long enough for the temp to come up. Then shut it off. Then do a oil/filter change.

Regarding the 1.8T VW engine, I don't know much about it, but if you're driving along and the screen clogs, dumping in some solvent and continuing to drive would probably do more damage than good. I was under the impression that you're not supposed to drive the car with the solvent in it; rather, just run the motor at idle and then dump it immediately. Kind of hard to do an O/FCI on the side of the road!!! Who carrier a dump bucket, oil, filter, tools and a jack just for a roadside oil change?
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3


I know of one where a friend of mine used some. He said the process was to put the "cleaner" in a stone cold engine, operate it at idle only while in park, just long enough for the temp to come up. Then shut it off. Then do a oil/filter change.


But were those the instructions on the bottle or just what he thought would work? I agree about not driving with it in there but I'd want the oil to be hot so the crud is in suspension and actually flowing so the cleaner can flow with it.
 
glxpassat faster than Auto-Rx? absoulutely paint thinner always works faster. So does transmission fluid one other point when you drain oil with anything added some of that anything stays in the lube system .You never get it all out. Using Auto-Rx thats a good thing. Solvents thats a bad thing.

By the way if your using Auto-Rx and get an oil light or check engine light, it is the sensors reacting to sludge being removed, There is no problem and after your rinse phase is done these lights will act normally.

If you read the FAQ on http://www.auto-rx.com you would know this.It is a good idea to follow Auto-Rx instructions and not rely on 'cheaper alternatives" with no guarantee or history of success.

Why don't you be a pathfinder and do that paint thinner thing and give us a report?

Auto-Rx comes with a guarantee.
 
From Toyota 4x4 web site.

Do those high priced oil additives help or hurt your engine?

Oil additives, you know the ones that almost everyone has tried and most have not seen much difference, Yea those. Let’s talk about what is really in them and what they can do to your engine.

There are hundreds of oil additives on the market. Some say that they will reduce your mileage, or reduce your wear, or reduce your oil consumption, and some even say that you can run your engine without any oil after treating your engine with their miracle cure additive.

The truth is that there are 4 types of oil additives.

1. Solvent is one and it only cleans out deposits left by using a poor oil. If you use a good oil you should not need to use a solvent in your engine. Think about it, there is many places in your engine that don’t drain all the oil out of. You know the small little valleys that hold the oil and doesn’t drain oil. That still has the solvent it them and will contaminate your new fresh oil. Solvent will clean out your engine but at what cost? Solvent is made to break down oils and I for one would never use a solvent in my engine because it would start to break down my new fresh oil and reduce the oils ability to properly lubricate my engine.
 
Dyoel182 - I trust my friend; I'm sure he read the bottle of his solvent based product before he applied it.

Unfortunately, I wasn't as well versed in ARX at the time, or I would have advised him to consider ARX as the proper alternative. Neither he nor I knew better then, but we do now!
 
Well, in all fairness, Auto-Rx is yet to come into its own in terms of widespread exposure. It's got a decent showing on the automotive boards where enthusiasts frequent, but for your average stroke that already knows it all about engines (didn't we all, at one time?) but doesn't continue the learning process beyond "shop" ..or not even to that depth, they grab the nearest Mechanic in a Can that carries a familiar label. Some stuff is decent, like the Lube Guard line ..and surely some fuel treatment adds are of value, but the other stuff is typically there to patch/band aid/cover up ...etc. I saw my daughter's boyfriend putting SNAP oil treatment in her Taurus one day. I asked "why?". He really didn't have an answer for me. I had already reduced the oil consumption from quarts per hour of operation to a quart per months with a single Auto-Rx treatment. So much reduced that it really didn't need checking between 6 month oil changes. She's on a second treatment now to see if further improvements can be had.

I don't blame too many for using the solvent stuff. They literally don't know any better.
 
I remember 10 yrs ago (before ARX)I would walk out my front door and all I would hear is Ka-boom! Ka-puey! Ka-pow! This was the sound of engines all over America spontaneously blowing-up due to the use of all of those "quick flush" solvents. I am glad I know better now.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Dyoel182 - I trust my friend; I'm sure he read the bottle of his solvent based product before he applied it.


I'm not saying you shouldnt trust him. I'm just wondering if the bottle said start with the engine cold and run for 5 minutes or thats how he understood the directions. I can tell you that neither of my daily drivers would be at full temp in 5 minutes and to drain my oil I'd want the oil at full temp for probably another 5 minutes at least.
 
Originally Posted By: dlafoy
I remember 10 yrs ago (before ARX)I would walk out my front door and all I would hear is Ka-boom! Ka-puey! Ka-pow! This was the sound of engines all over America spontaneously blowing-up due to the use of all of those "quick flush" solvents. I am glad I know better now.


LOL.gif
You're right. It's not the end of the road for an engine to do a solvent flush. But you wouldn't give yourself a high colonic if you could do it in some other manner either. The main thing you've got to keep in mind is that this is a preferred manner to do it ..and it yields better results. We wouldn't want to subject ourselves to routine dental cleanings, which are damaging in the process, if other less invasive/severe means were available and more effective.
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...but, as always, use what you think is the most effective product for your needs/wallet. You're the ultimate judge of value for your dollar. I would merely offer that there is a truly superior alternative that has proven itself, again and again, with distinction.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Regarding the 1.8T VW engine, I don't know much about it, but if you're driving along and the screen clogs, dumping in some solvent and continuing to drive would probably do more damage than good.


I agree, and I was not trying to imply that anyone should haul this stuff around in the trunk in case the motor light comes on. If the light comes on, you should stop and have it towed. You can tow it to the dealer and have them clean the motor for a few hundred $$, or maybe tow it home and use this stuff. When the light comes on, it's too late to consider Auto-RX...
 
Originally Posted By: Frank
You never get it all out. Using Auto-Rx thats a good thing. Solvents thats a bad thing.


Isn't gasoline a solvent? My oil gets contaminated with gas every oci and I'm sure there's always a little left behind. Don't solvents evaporate, would they really stay behind forever? Maybe a rinse phase would be needed...

[/quote]If you read the FAQ on http://www.auto-rx.com you would know this.It is a good idea to follow Auto-Rx instructions and not rely on 'cheaper alternatives" with no guarantee or history of success.[/quote]

Last time I followed those instructions, I left it in my motor for 1500 miles. Now the instructions say 2500 miles. Are you sure it shouldn't be 3500 miles?

[/quote]Why don't you be a pathfinder and do that paint thinner thing and give us a report?[/quote]

No need to, eePE posted above he's been using it for years with no problems.

[/quote]Auto-Rx comes with a guarantee.[/quote]

Good! The valvetrain in my wife's Honda is still brown. Since I got the wrong instructions and only left it in for 1500 miles rather than 2500, you can send me a check!
 
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