Hub Grease

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I used to use Campagnolo grease, had a 500grm tub bought years ago but when I finished it I could not find it for sale anywhere. I now use Finish Line synthetic which is really good and does not separate in high heat.
Roger
 
That finishline white coloured grease? It separates out so quickly, I have black oil oozing out of my front XTR constantly.
 
does it bug anyone else that no bike specific greases actually have any specs, e.g. worked/unworked penetration ??
 
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does it bug anyone else that no bike specific greases actually have any specs, e.g. worked/unworked penetration ??




No. It's bike grease!




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I can't believe I read that on BITOG.....
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If you look at "bike grease" msds, almost all of them that bother to list one are NLGI #2. Pro inline skaters and boarders use a NLGI #1.5 grease.

Wal*Mart and some of the other "X"-mart/box stores used to sell Slick 50 grease, while rated at NLGI #2, it acts more like a NLGI #1.5 rated grease. I've used it in my hubs without a problem for daily commuting, just have to check it slightly more often. Some bicyclists prefer using a polyurea based grease and it has its advantages over LI and Al based greases in loose ball bearing applications...Park Synthetic Bicycle Grease is polyurea based and NLGI #2 rated.
 
What advantage? I kinda agree with Pablo, I can't see a real advantage over lithium in a bike application.


I used Amsoil series 2000 grease in my road bike a week ago. It is NLGI 2 but has a very low cold temp starting torque rating.



I figuired it should roll fairly easy. I put it in the rear hub wheel. It seemed to not roll as well in the air.
I don't know it it was the grease or my bearing adjustment.
I will try to see if the wheel rolls any different after I put on a few more miles.



When I rode it I could not tell the diff between the factory Shimano stock lube with a clear tan color.
 
i would be leary of any automotive or marine grease for the mear thought of increased friction. i think we ALL can agree that an automotive grease is plenty sufficent for the meager loads placed upon a bicycle, but lets face it, petaling sucks.
most people go to great lengths to reduce petaling effort, they run 100psi skinny as my thumb tyres, 24 speed+ trans (more than a big dumptruck) with non oringed chains and wheel/crank bearings so tiny they dont even come with seals to keep out dirt and water. the balls dont even have cages! cages who needs them.

i dont understand why would you guys consider using wheel bearing grease in a bicycle? i would personally use the thinnest grease i could find that didnt run out of the hubs overnight. i would even sacrifice some bearing and chain life if i thought it would reduce that petaling effort any.

personally, i havent found a grease thats thin enough yet. ive toyed with the idea of dribbling a few drops of atf or gear lube on the bearings each time i go out. that would be real easy sence theres no bearing seals so i wouldnt even need to take the wheels off the bike. just lay it on each of its sides and drip a few drops in.
my chain gets used atf, cables do too.

bearings and chains are cheap. have you guys priced them at a local bike store? i think you could replace the chain and every bearing on the bike for under $30.

the only place i could see using real wheel bearing grease is on the steering stem and maybe the v brake pivots, some derailer joints, etc. those areas wont change youre road speed like the bearings and chain.
 
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non oringed chains and wheel/crank bearings so tiny they dont even come with seals to keep out dirt and water. the balls dont even have cages!




Actually, my bike has sealed wheel and crank bearings. As for some bearings not having cages, that's not unusual either. The cage is only there to make assembly and installation easier. In a headset, for example, many people do not use cages but only balls, mostly because no cage allows more balls, which results in less wear. Those loose balls are easily installed. They simply stick to the greased bearing race.
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On many cheap bikes bearings are non-servceable these days. Where possible, install sealed, rebuildable cartridge bearings. Those, if properly maintained, will outlive any bike.
 
It's Pedaling! "Petaling" must be something to do with flowers.

FWIW, ZIPP racing wheels not only have a light grease, but, there is play in hub under no-load. Once there is weight on the hub, the slack is taken up...but, ZIPP hubs perform fine for thousands of trouble-free miles. Have some Spinnergy hubs with a seal, and the seal would cause the hubs to bind...Spinnergy just said take the seal out, and they'd still uphold their warranty. Bike hubs just don't seem to be under enough stress to require thick grease....assuming they aren't being submerged, or in heavy rain.
 
FWIW, I use Chris King hub grease in my Chris king hubs (looks like a 00 grease, pretty runny and supposedly a syn, although I don't know what type) and DT Hugi grease (they call it a paste) in my DT hugi 240 road bike hub, which is actually made by Dow Corning for machinery slides and beds and has moly in it.
 
I worked for a company "Brother in Law"............

They used Kluber on the ROV thruster seals. Some of the ROVs go to 1500 meters underwater.

A small container cost about $170 for about 2or 3 lbs. I believe it was a calcium base.
 
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