Mobil1 0W40 - 518mi - 01 Toyota Tundra 4.7L

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Here is my first oil analysis on my 01 Toyota Tundra. I also did a TBN reading. No antifreeze in oil which is good. I don't know why there's a high copper and lead reading, maybe because of the Seafoam I added into the synthetic or the Restore I had used in the dino oil before changing from synthetic.
 
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Why does the post title say 4.7L but the reports says 3.4L?




I guess I forgot to put the type of engine under "engine make" on the form. I don't know of the type of engine will affect the reading though.
 
It wont affect the reading, but it does affect the "Universal Averages" that they are basing saying that it has high wear. Regardless it does look a little high, but is probably from seafoam and restore. After a couple changes without that stuff it should drop to something more normal.
 
I dunno how they say Seafoam has Cu and Pb when it is a known fact that RESTORE contains both!...Blackstone needs to get their act together!...Though after all the years I seriously doubt they will!...
 
Your truck has low miles on it. IMO I don't think the report is that great. Just glancing at it, it shows the UAs close to the norm but the oil has only been in service for 518 miles. I'd try to flush the engine additives outta there so you can get a more accurate UOA.
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dude dont put anything in your motor but motor oil. jeesh.. you dont need it. if you treat it like absolute ---- then maybe some seafoam but the restore is a waste.. imo..
 
why a uoa after only 518 miles? Not criticizing, just wondering is all.

Did you drain or just sample and still running the same oil?
 
If im reading it right those wear rates are based off of 5700 miles and you only have 518 miles. If it was the other way around i would say you have a ---- nice running engine.
 
nice 518 mile oil change with a UOA to boot. lots of $$$ I would have used cheap dino if I knew I was going to dump it with that short of an oil change. Plus you said you used restore too which is not needed/junk. why all the oil additives? this engine is known for its low wear. what exactly are you trying to fix? Your tinkering too much/obsessing with the engine and it's showing in the UOA with higher wear metals

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I guess I was overpampering my engine. I guess by looking at the UOA and your guys advice, I'll stop using any type of liquid in my engine except motor oil. Although I was gonna try put MMO in my next oil change though.
 
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I guess I was overpampering my engine. I guess by looking at the UOA and your guys advice, I'll stop using any type of liquid in my engine except motor oil. Although I was gonna try put MMO in my next oil change though.




I have been running a RP & MMO combo in my trundra since 2,880 miles, after the "break in" cycles. 5 Qts oil and 1/2 qt MMO. I never had any probs out of it. It is your truck so it has to be your decision on what you are going to put in there. Good luck.
 
dude save your $$ in hawai you can easily run 10w30 in that motor. any dino and or syn will be perfectly fine and dont forget to keep the air filter and the pcv valve clean and thats it.. those motors are great. personally i dont go over 5k mile oci's dino or syn.
 
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dude save your $$ in hawai you can easily run 10w30 in that motor. any dino and or syn will be perfectly fine and dont forget to keep the air filter and the pcv valve clean and thats it.. those motors are great. personally i dont go over 5k mile oci's dino or syn.




Going along with the above post, make sure when u change the pcv valve, you take the hose off and shoot some carb cleaner or something to that affect through the hose to make sure it's all clean in there. No sense putting a new clean pcv valve in there with gunk inside the tube.
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I guess I was overpampering my engine. I guess by looking at the UOA and your guys advice, I'll stop using any type of liquid in my engine except motor oil. Although I was gonna try put MMO in my next oil change though.




Forget the additives. Use a top notch oil alone and your UOA's will prove they are not needed and probably doing harm. That engine will run forever on any dino or synthetic you like.
Restore should be limited to the crooked used car salesmen that use it to patch their "creampuffs".
 
toyotatundranator, how much did the Mobil 1 0W40 cost you in Hawaii? How many miles a year do you drive the truck? How much would a name brand 5W30 or 10W30 conventional oil cost you in your area?

The info you supply (if you decide to supply) will probably suggest that for a low mileage driver, you are better off using 5W30 or 10W30 conventional oil (I don't believe it matters in your climate) and changing it every 6 months.

Of course, if you can afford to live in Hawaii, your cost benefit analysis may be quite different than mine. Good luck!
 
living in Hawaii, I imagine he can't put too many miles on this truck. water restrictions of course
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