Jeep Liberty Diesel

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I know there was some previous discussion on this subject but I want to get a clear understanding of what is the best and what is an acceptable oil to use in the 2006 Jeep Liberty diesel I recently acquired. The manual no longer only specifies Mobil 1 0W40 or 5W40, as it did for the 2005 model, but states:

Use SAE 0W-40 Synthetic Engine Oil that meets API Categories SM/CF, and the requirements
of DaimlerChrysler Material Standard MS-10725. If SAE 0W-40 is not available,
SAE 5W-40 Synthetic Engine Oil is acceptable.

I am using Mobil 1 0W40 the Euro oil. It is not easy to find and costs $6.50 a quart at local auto shop. I like the idea of the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck as it specifically addresses the issue that this engine has a turbo. I have historically liked Shell Rotella oil which I last used a lifetime ago when I had a 1966 Mercedes 200D. At the local COSTCO they have a Chevron DELO 5W40 synthetic and it is very reasonably priced.

Nobody lists compliance with DC Std MS-10725 but I have to believe that the regular Mobil 1 0W40 synth meets that requirement as it is what is used by the dealer.

I used to believe, in the 1966 era, that OK oil with frequent changes was the best way to go and it worked well for me. Now it looks like very long periods for oil changes (12K miles!) I wonder if a less expensive oil (the DELO) is OK and change it at 6K miles rather than a more expensive oil with less frequent oil changes? I do expect to work the Liberty a bit with towing a 2,000 to 3,000 lb trailer on vacation trips and have kayaks on top. Does that change the oil or change frequency recommendation? I live in Southern California and I do not expect to ever go where it is really cold, if that matters. I want to keep this Jeep a LONG time and don't want to be penny wise & dollar foolish. I want to set up a good maintenance routine.
 
I had a Liberty CRD. Hope you have better luck with it than I had.

I believe the manual states that synthetic is required. I used Rotella T 5W-40. I didn't like the 0w-40 that came in it, too thin after a few thousand miles. The turbo puts a lot of stress on the oil, I wouldn't use conventional oil. Mobile 1 5W-40 is a diesel rated oil and probably a better choice. It all but disappeared from store shelves during my CRD ownership.

The engine in the CRD is tight and doesn't seem to soot load like older diesels. You can safely go the recommended change interval with a diesel rated oil. Conventional oil with a shorter interval is not smart. The filters on these are expensive. Conventional oil will not protect the turbo. Stick with synthetic and a long change interval.

Check out the lostkjs.com CRD section and make sure you have taken care of a few known problems. My Jeep broke down faster than fixes were found so I sold it. Can't say I'm sad about it. Dealer support on these stinks. I hope you are a good mechanic.
 
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The filters on these are expensive.




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It's a 51516 WIX/FL400S MotorCraft filter. Same as on my daughter's Taurus. 3/4-16 thread.
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Several filters fit. The drain back valve and bypass pressures are different. Does it matter? Don't know. I used a Pure One filter for a Focus(i think) because that is all I could find. The dealer didn't have, and couldn't get, filters at the time.

Sold the CRD 9 months ago, I don't really keep up with what is going on with them.

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Quote:


The filters on these are expensive.




confused.gif
It's a 51516 WIX/FL400S MotorCraft filter. Same as on my daughter's Taurus. 3/4-16 thread.
dunno.gif


welcome.gif



 
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Jeep broke down faster than fixes were found so I sold it.



Gentleman who works with me said the same thing. And he is a local heavy duty equipment mover with a lot of experience in diesels. Said too much shop time for things like the EGR system etc.
IMHO great concept / bad execution.
 
Use the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck or the Shell Rotella 5W-40. Both are synthetics that will fall right in the specified quality. I use the Shell in mine because it's $6/gal cheaper at Walmart than the M1. See my used oil analysis in that section.
 
We had two in fleet service and neither one lasted 6 months. The dealer just could not figure them out and our diesel shop was kept busy with them. Failures were exhaust system, exhaust header, accessory drive brackets, fuel injectors, coolant leaks, transmission leaks, electrical problems and drive ability problems. I can see whey the model was dropped.
 
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Several filters fit. The drain back valve and bypass pressures are different. Does it matter? Don't know. ....


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I remember when the CRD came out, it DID have a different oil filter than the gas model.
Some of the aftermarket manufacturers (Wix) listed the same FL400S as the gas 3.7L. Some (Fram, I think) listed a different number.

I haven't checked back since then.

I have a gas 3.7L ,'02.
 
I would assume that the Purolator PL25230 is an acceptable filter. There is a good price on then at Amazon, of all places.
 
Quote:


I would assume that the Purolator PL25230 is an acceptable filter. There is a good price on then at Amazon, of all places.




That is the one I used. It is for a Ford Focus I think. As I said before, the specs on the bypass are different. A guy on the LOSTKJ board said the specs from VM (engine Maker) are pretty specific about bypass pressures and that filter may or may not be correct. Best bet is to get a filter from Jeep. If it is the only filter available, use it. That was the case when I needed to change my oil. The dealer didn't have a filter. Someone said the PL25230 was the same size and thread so I used it. Every measurement was the same.

The VM motor isn't that technologically advanced. It started out as a tractor engine, or so I hear. I would think that anything that fits will work out fine.
 
yakers
sounds like your Jeep TD has as much oil mystery as my Navara.

My direct Injection "M-Fire" Navara (It's a Nissan, but uses a Renault and Delphi fuel system) specifies nothing newer than CF-4, and also B3.

It's a pain in the quoit.

I'm using Castrol Magnatec SP 5W-40.
 
Wix spec's a common FL400S sized filter for this engine. The 51516. 8-11 bypass.

Purolator will give you two numbers depending on how you go into it. The L20195 and L25230 ..which appear identical in spec's

There's nothing exceptional about these filters. I would expect Wix to have a custom bypass valve setting if it was something way out there ..just like they do with VW/Audi. Purolator already has a higher bypass valve setting standard.

The US just doesn't do diesel well. Not enough people work on them.
 
The Jeep liberty CruD is a great vehicle.
Too bad CRD competence level at the dealership is pathetic.

Stick with a full synthetic HDEO 5w40. Don't bother with the gasser 0w40 oil. Also, the 10k OCI recommendation is a joke. Keep it 7.5k or less, or install a bypass to give the engine some real filtering.

Concerning the full flow filter, some have used the larger Fl1a/Pl3001/51515 filter on it.

Clean fuel in any diesel is a must. Consider an extra diesel fuel low micron filter with water separator and drain.

And, as with any diesel, you should ALWAYs use a diesel fuel supplement for lubricity and cleaning(along with winter antigels).

Most diesel vehicles are NOT typical US-consumer capable.
 
why is the 10k OCI a joke on a decent syn? Our 96 MB E300D, an older tech engine, has extremely low soot loading and good tbn retention at 7500+ mile OCIs. I see no good reason why these cant, other than the fact that they are giving less than the 36 MPG ours does, so they use more fuel and thus potentially load marginally more soot in the oil.

JMH
 
I'd be careful running a more "advanced" HDMO.

My Nissan calls for nothing newer than CF, and warranty is void if even CG-4 is used.

Turns decent UOAs on PCMO.
 
TBN with todays fuels isn't an issue.
UOAs on the CRD were not impressive.
Does your mercedes E300D have egr/catalytic/turbo?
Best not to compare unlike vehicles.
 
Yes, OM 606 in the 96 has EGR and catalyst. No turbo. Heck, the OM617 in my w123 cars has EGR and turbo, and it is even safe with soot loading for 7500-10k OCIs on D1 when in proper tune. And that is mid 1970s technology.

What metrics do you use to determine the fact that 7500 is OK and 10k miles is not? Id like to understand your logic. Does the liberty diesel have a small sump (Id doubt it)? Does the filter have a built-in bypass filter like the older daimler engines do (e.g. OM 617)?

JMH
 
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