Timing belt: OEM VS Aftermarket

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CLguy

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hi,

my car is a little bit over 100k and it's time for a timing belt change.

from my research on the net, there is a new type of timing belt made from "highly-saturated nitrile" (HSN), and it is suppose to be much more reliable than the traditional fiberglass or kevlar timing belt. so my choices are the OEM stuff, which i do not know what it is made from but it is recommended for 105k service for my car. the other choice is the aforemention HSN timing belt which is suppose to be the best material for timing belt. and finally the goodyear gatorback traditional timing belt.

what would you recommend? OEM, HSN belt, or the Goodyear gotarback timing belt?

thanks for your knowledge and insight
 
The OE timing belt is fairly overbuilt. There are quite a few people who run their original belts to 150k+ and rarely have an issue.
 
Quote:

hi,

my car is a little bit over 100k and it's time for a timing belt change.

Click to expand...


Don't forget to replace those parts that usually cause the belt to break or skip. Depending on your engine these parts may include water pump, idle roller, belt tensioner etc.

Conti, Goodyear and Gates all make very good belts.
 
unless you run nitrous (funny gas, booster juice, etc.) or you have an extremely souped up engine to begin with, otherwise, ordinary OE grade timing belt should serve you nicely (typical 8yrs or 160,000kms).

Don't need to go fancy for most of the timing belts (quality made ones such as Mitsuboshi, Gates, Conti, etc.) are very, very reliable to begin with. My only concern would be those latecomer/player in the field such as those cheeply made Chinese or Korean made ones. I've seen some Taiwanese made ones too. These are the ones that have no proven track record and I would not use then with a 10ft pole.

Also: Mori is right that while you are at it, have your water pump replaced, all the necessary seals, idler tensioner pulleys and bearings, etc. replaced. MaKE ABSOLUTELY Sure that any cam or crank bolts that you took off must be torqued according to specifications. Otherwise, you may ended up just like the other poster where his Camry won't start....

Q.
 
Quote:

OEM is best, especially if it's HSN (highly saturated nitrile)

Click to expand...
period!!! do all the other stuff that should be done when replacing the belt .You want to try not to do the job again.
 
Many OEM belts come from companies like Gates, Goodyear, or Continental. I wouldn't worry too much about a premium aftermarket belt with HSN.

And replace all the oil seals and the water pump while you are down there. I can't stress that enough, either.
 
I have always used OEM timing belts on my Subarus and Hondas without issues. I changed them out at the prescribed miles and they look like new. I feel it is just not worth taking a chance with aftermarket belts. Past history and many documented belt falures with name brand AM belts suggested they were designed for the 30-60,000 mile interval change when many engines had moved to a 100,000 + mile recomendation. I sleep better when using the manufactures TBs. JMW. Ed
 
OEM!!! Subaru OEM belts for instance are much "beefier" that the ones I've purchased locally. Had a... either gates or goodyear... stretch by 35,000, resulting in misfire codes and a rough idle. By chance, I replaced the t-belt with oem when the water pump went and ...bingo... idle back to smooth, no more codes. I'll never again by aftermarket.
 
Sure you might make it to 160,000 miles but why risk it. I made it to roughly that on timing belt #2 on my 93 Civic and I was pretty nervous about it the last few years. My local Honda service manager claims that some oem belts have broken at 80,000 miles. It's rare but does happen. Especially if you have a zero tolerance motor not to mention being stranded at the worst possible time. It's being penny wise and pound foolish to be a cheapie in this area.
nono.gif


On my 98 Civic I just pulled off the what I thought was the factory belt. And behold it said Gates & Honda on it. The replacement also said Honda. I'm pretty sure it's the original because it has a code of 97 on the belt I removed.
twocents.gif
 
Gates may make Honda timing belts but, you can be sure that Honda provided Gates with Honda specs. So, if you go to your local auto parts store and get a Gates belt for your Honda, you are not getting an OE belt. Gates & GoodYear were two of the manufactures whose belts were stretching and breaking. A broken belt in an interference engine is a disaster and often times completely trashes the engine.
 
glad i drive a tacoma v6 with a NON interference motor. my belt snaps my motor just shuts off.. BUT i dont risk things. i am going to have my tbelt, w-pump, and thermostat replaced around 110K miles
 
I have used both OEM Toyota belts and NAPA/Gates belts on my vehicles. Actually, I've only used one Gates belt and that one I took back. It was substantially thicker and stiffer than the Toyota belt, and was so difficult to try and keep on the crankshaft pulley while you tried to put it over the camshaft pulleys that I gave up. If you had two people to do the job it would have been fine but alone it was not possible. Eventually I had my wife give me a hand and I got it on, but then the marks wouldn't align. It turns out that the timing marks were ever so slightly off and they **just** wouldn't align.

I ended up going to the dealer and picking up a belt which:

a. Was easily installed by one person and
b. Aligned properly

These days with online, discount OEM dealers selling parts it is almost the same price for original parts.
 
I'll use any reputable T-belt company. I've never had issues as long as the end user/customer changes the belt within recommended mileage. Belt tension for rookies will get them into trouble if they dont set it properly.

I always change tensioners and idler pulleys. Oil seals should be changed or oil swell will destroy any belt. If the water pump is in the area that will get changed aswell. For japanese makes I will only use japanes water pumps. Domestics will only get chinese water pumps because that is the only place on earth they make them now. Pray the quality of the bearing does not seize in a short period of time(non uncommon).

I cant stress enough how imperative it is to set the belt tension correctly.
 
Quote:

I'll use any reputable T-belt company. I've never had issues as long as the end user/customer changes the belt within recommended mileage. Belt tension for rookies will get them into trouble if they dont set it properly.

I always change tensioners and idler pulleys. Oil seals should be changed or oil swell will destroy any belt. If the water pump is in the area that will get changed aswell. For japanese makes I will only use japanes water pumps. Domestics will only get chinese water pumps because that is the only place on earth they make them now. Pray the quality of the bearing does not seize in a short period of time(non uncommon).

I cant stress enough how imperative it is to set the belt tension correctly.

Click to expand...

What is the correct way then?
confused.gif
 
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