It was winter in North Dakota on new years 1999. I had Firewood, gasoline for the generator, lots of canned goods and toilet paper, etc.
Nothing happened. Life went on.
Now, as 2020 looms on, I am looking forward to retirement in another 10 years. I've been wrenching on airplanes (and nearly every engine powered thing on earth) for 40 years. Most of my knuckles are all pure scar tissue... no normal skin left on some of them. My whole body is covered with scars. And my bones hurt.
If I had never gotten married, I would not be divorced, either.... but I have the most incredible daughter ever.
A great THANKS to all for the information, i'll stay with the VI. Runs great...body starting to go at the front fenders and the usual age stuff but motor is a champ so far. Oil changes every 2500 miles or less...alot of short trip driving (work is only 8 miles away). The site and all the information makes my mind go goofy.
I may also add that im trying to run something locally available. Mobil 1 and Rotella 5w40 are everywhere, but stuff like T6 multi and 0w40 aren't anywhere near me short of the internet. I will do some shopping around to see if anyone stocks anything different since I looked around though, just to make sure.
As of this moment Im thinking of running T6 5w40 in the diesels and 5w30 in the gas' ones and adding water cooling to the turbo if the 5w30 thins down too much in the turbo truck.
Another slight concern is that the turbo truck is tuned and runs decently rich compared to a normal gas truck at WOT (around 11:1-ish at full boost) so fuel dilution may also be something to keep in mind. After installing the bypass system my idea was to check them all at around 5k miles to see how everything is doing. (this would be after switching everything to hopefully 1-2 oil weights)
I was always told sucking out the ATF Fluid is one of the worst things you can do.. Somthing about the valve body.. I remember Jiffy Lube used to have this fancy machine that they would connect to the tranny lines and it would suck out your ATF FLUID and put new ATF back in..
I remember them having all kinds of problems.. I even remember various Vehicle manufacturers advising aginst this way of chaning the ATF. They said do drain and refills or drop and pan.
Im probably just going to get NGK Laser Plats it just sucks that they only last 60K miles.
I'd get the Laser Iridiums - not much more and you can leave them in for 100K+.
One plug I've been impressed with is the Denso Platinum TT as an upgrade plug for cars that had copper(really NiCu) as OE - the ground electrode is based off Denso's Super Ignition Plug(which is seeing OEM use on Toyota's D4-S engines) but it uses a titanium alloy instead.
I'm kicking myself in the foot for not using Autolite Iridium XPs in a friend's Explorer, that was a painful job to do. But I'm using NGK's G-Power in that.
RDY4WAR, I'm terribly sorry to hear the story about your fellow soldier and his family. Too often, the world just does not seem right, makes you wonder why things like that happen at all, let alone to your friend that dropped his life and dedicated it to his brother by enlisting. It's a sad story to hear.
Idaho is the most "Relaxed" state I know, you can carry your AR loaded in your car/truck, no CCW required for state residents.
Thank you for your service sir! Your welcome here in Idaho anytime!
You could set up a garage-based business where you are buying in bulk (drums, probably would be best) and storing / distributing / bottling it yourself. You probably would not be able to claim certain certifications without a licensing fee, maybe sending samples out for test, and other expensive obligations. I have no idea if bodies like the API require a membership / licensing fee but usually that's how these industry-supported bodies work.
You could, of course, lie about it and wait until someone complained ... wouldn't be the first time for retail oil bottles. If the business makes money then you could pay for the legal obligations. That's pretty much the business model used by immigrants, by the way. Start out by skirting the rules and go legit when the income warrants it.
You will definitely need an extension and a flex head ratchet for that one, nothing overly difficult but it is a bit of an inconvenience.
Originally Posted by 2strokeNorthstar
Be happy it’s not a modular Ford. I changed all 8 on a friends and wires in maybe 60-90min. Was missing from a melted boot. Extensions and swivels maybe? I don’t remember any issue.
Compared to most applications, spark plugs on a Mod motor is a walk in the park. Because the engine sits lower on my Expedition than it does on my Grand Marquis, it may be a slight bit of a challenge, but all in all, it's not that bad. Changing plugs on my Ford 4.0L SOHC V6 was more of a pain than a Mod V8.
Had the same issue with my 6G72, and it drove me crazy. The throttle body and IAC valve were clean, the injectors had just come off an ASNU machine, new fuel filter, plugs/distributor rotor/cap and wires, no vacuum leaks. Turned out to be the IAC valve, which wasn't cheap to replace, but it did have a ton of miles on it and was 17 years old at the time of replacement.
A mechanic can buy a cheap car and fix it for cheap if it breaks..
This is me - I seldom buy a vehicle that is running, it's normally a non runner that I get going. I would never buy a new vehicle, and even late model is unthinkable for me. I don 't buy and sell to make money, if I get a cheap car as a do up, then it's for me to use. I certainly have different values than the typical BITOG member.
Yeah my Journey had the same Copper Plugs in it with a low change interval. When it was time I put Iridium in it. Not because it was difficult but because changing them that often is stupid IMO. Worked just fine for me.
On the other end of the spectrum we have people who overmaintain their Hyundai/Kia to make it last as long as possible. And then one day they load groceries in the trunk, get in the driver seat, turn the key, and hear the heartbreaking knocking sound coming from the engine bay...