I thought research showed a filters efficiency(ability to trap particles) increases with use up to a point. Has to do with pore plugging in the media over time. This is where synthetic media filters like the Fram Ultra excel. If you change it at 5k miles you are gaining nothing and simply throwing away your money.
Is there any data supporting this?
Simple eyeball test is your data. Take a look at all-of the filter dissections in this board room. Most-all filters reach landfills with less than 33-50% fill-rate.
So many here insist on changing filters with each oil change. But would they do it, should that landfill be in their own backyard?
Do you guys not have a recycling facility that takes used oil and filters? My local dump/waste facility has both. I take both and empty my used in oil in big vats that have set up and other bins to toss your used oil filters in.
I’d actually like some info as well on this, my last sample showed having 3.8% dilution at around 6k miles but was on track as far as viscosity for an equally close mileage sample, I want to say there was a difference of about 1k miles between samples, the current being 1k miles farther with a similar Viscosity Index of around 12.2. The sample I received which had 4.8% dilution at around 8k miles showed a far lower viscosity index of around 10.2, which was far lower than even samples taken at 15k miles, and that was when a faulty injectors was believed to be the culprit. This last sample with 3.4% was only driven 10 miles before sampling through the dipstick tube, and was just under being up to temp, I suspect this could be my issue because again the viscosity tells a different story as to what the fuel dilution had indicated.
If you have the ability to afford the maintenance, it has a reasonably complete maintenance and repair history, and there's an indie with the powertrain drop tray that's familiar enough with the Phaeton / Touareg / Audi Q7 / Porsche Cayenne / Bentley Continental / Audi A8(?) powertrains of that era to be able to drop it to work on it if necessary. Then PLEASE do a favor to the rare, cool, weird vehicle fans of the world and get it...and take care of it, and drive it a lot, and keep it in well maintained and loved condition...for some other person like you in the future :-)
I found this over on BleepingComputer.com. A new modern day version of Winamp has been released, it is still in Beta for now but is compatible with Windows 8.1 and 10. There is a big updated version planned for release in 2019 with online radio, podcasts and other features. I have been tinkering with it tonight and for me the new version is a very welcome change, a much better alternative to Windows Media Player.
So im suddenly getting compressor surge. I installed a forge bypass valve with the weakest spring it came with. I did get one surge with its first opening after install then it went away. I also installed a adjustable wastegate actuator. My tuner said to start at 1 turn in. Did that and now i constantly get surge/stall when i shift it stalls the turbo and i can feel it fall on its face. I have to rebuild boost after shifts. It used to be insta spool but now its like a 1.5 sec lag. Also sometimes under 1.5 lbs of boost the bpv wont open and i can hear the blades chop the air. I also tried half a turn on the wastegate arm with no change. I havent tried no turns on the arm yet. But what do u guys think bad tune? Bad part? Also i didnt have the surge stall issue with just the bpv installed. Also no boost leaks. Everything is installed correctly.
Just finished 2 weeks of driving a 2019 Jetta while on vacation in South Carolina. Thought I'd share my impressions; The car was virtually new when I got it with only 400 miles on the odo and I put close to 2000 miles on it. It had the 1.4 L turbo and 8 speed dual-clutch automatic. Not a bad car overall, comfortable, low wind noise so nice when cruising down the highway, decent suspension, big trunk and fairly nice interior. Nice backup camera and lane assist warning plus follow-to-close warning. It may have had auto breaking, but I'm not sure. I did have a chime and display warning go off when I came up on someone too quickly but I was applying the breaks hard at that point so I'm not sure if the car helped or not.
Overall, the drive-train was a bit disappointing. While it had plenty of power it was pretty noisy when pushed. The programming on the trans really keeps the RPMs low and it really lugs this little engine in order to get fuel economy. Speaking of which, fuel economy was pretty good. The dashboard MPG readout often had the MPG showing in the mid 40's for individual trips but I only averaged just over 38 on each tank when I filled up and calculated it by hand.
I kept it in "sport mode" which raised the RPM's by about 300 or so and kept it just under 2000 RPM under most conditions. But for a "sport" mode, it still shifts really early. I also frequently shifted it into manual mode to pick a better gear for various cruising conditions. Jerkiness was another issue. You felt every downshift when coming to a stop. On normal acceleration, it would often feel like it was bogging due to the early shifts but then when you press the accelerator further to gain some speed it would lurch forward as it downshifted. Kinda difficult to drive smoothly.
Finally, it does have the start-stop feature so it turns off at stop lights pretty regularly. Unfortunately, when it stops it lurches a bit. There was a button to defeat the feature but it has to be pushed every time you start the car, default is enabled. So overall, not a bad little car but some rough edges with the drive-train...
Sadly, you forgot to add that it's nearly vomitously hideous. Did you run 93 octane on your drive or 87? 87 will cause timing to pulled and make it feel sluggish.
I serviced the limited slip differential with Amsoil SVG, and I have a clunk in the first turn after it sits over night. Will this eventually cause a problem? If so, is Ford XL-3 or Lubegard limited slip supplement compatible with Amsoil SVG? Is one better than the other?
Why not try both? I've read a lot of positive reviews and white papers about Schaeffer's and already have some to try. However; Pablo (BITOG sponsor) will give you a great deal if you decide to go with Amsoil. I've used Amsoil severe gear among other items.
Redline motor oil has really impressed me. But, it has a select following and it's applicable purposes.
They are both good oils but for half the money or less I can get other full synthetic oils that are as good or so close its not worth arguing about.
It's probably Windows Update, that's generally the culprit for creeping disk space usage (VM or not) when you don't have anything else unusual installed. Easy way to check, fire up Windows Disk Cleanup, see what's consuming vast amounts of space.
I've got a basic 2011 Silverado work truck, I know it has ESC because it has a button to turn it off, was traction control standard too? This is a 2 wheel drive single cab. How much, if any will these systems help in the winter? It has new tires and came with two new winter studdless tires on wheels.
Traction control will help keep you from going sideways taking off from a stop, ESC will try to keep your track where you want to go while moving. Neither can defy the law of physics of either crap traction or poor tires and like any system they can't save you immediately.
My first car with ESP ('03 VW Golf) I almost kissed a wall in, had I not had ESP I would have. It was mid-low 30's and had recently rained so roads were damp. 8 mile drive home and no traction issues until I hit the cloverleaf off ramp at my exit and hit a patch of ice and/or oil about halfway through the cloverleaf that sent me into a straight trajectory for the wall. Ramp was under construction so had the concrete barrieriers on each side, despite a good 6-7' clearance off the wall from the start of the slip the ESP did not pull my track together until I was probably well under 6" from my front end kissing the wall.
VW 50700 is for 30,000 km or more OCI. 5000 km OCI is a piece of cake for VW 50501, which is capable of 15,000 km OCI.
OCI depends on country of exploitation. VW 507.. as specification is long life, but does not say "how long." Main attributes are DPF protection. However, VW scaled back OCI in many EU countries due to exploitation demands in TDI engines.
I don't bother transing around this place pimping redline as a fix with every breath.
I would suggest going through your post history. You have entire threads that are basically Redline promotion. I'm not claiming that's necessarily a bad thing due to the subject matter it pertains to, it does however seem to have affected your objectivity and appears to have made you somewhat sensitive to discussion where Redline isn't immediately singled out as "the best"
Those both take cheap dex 3. When I buy a used car, I always change the trans filter, clean the pan, and weld in a drain plug and then change it every 20k miles. Dex 3 is cheap. Not a full flush and clean, I think they cause more harm then good. Just the 4 or 5 quarts that come out, that way its gradual. A jug of walmart dex 3 is only $12.
The manual or guide probably says change every 100k unless used for towing, in a dirty dusty area or police taxi then every 20k?
Just did my 1st post breakin change at 7042 miles on my CTX 1300, it specs 10w30 and an 8k OCI. I went with Lucas10w30 synthetic. To soon to tell what the bike likes. If it doesn't shift well or develops odd noises I'll probably try Valvoline 10w30 synthetic next. Previously I've used, depending on the season, Lucas 10w40 and 20w50 in my air cooled bikes with good results. Why because it's readily available, reasonably priced and it seems to work well in all types of bikes.