Zerex Asian Vehicle antifreeze

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I found it !! i went to Weber auto parts in montebello california, wich is near east L.A and while i was getting an air filter ( pentius only 9$ ) i found they had them in boxes and i picked up 2. The price for one gallon is $11.99 wich for me isnt bad at all.

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Im going to change the thermostat, radiator cap and hoses soon

My Car is a 2000 Honda accord with a 2.3L 4 banger
 
Do they have concentrate and how much for a gallon of concentrate ? I have '04 S2000, I will flush the coolant soon and like to use concentrate.
 
I'd rather pay $11 at NAPA for Peak Global Lifetime 100% coolant.

50/50 mix of 1/2 gal of water (about 20 cents) and 1/2 gallon of coolant is only useful IF you are adding to the engine. Can not do a flush and get 50/50 in the end no matter how many drains your engine has. And its not real a deal... Should have been priced about $5-6 MAX.

Too bad Zerex is only selling it as a mix....
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Quote:
Too bad Zerex is only selling it as a mix....
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+1 They should rethink and add the full strength to line.

That said, I'm not sure if the average joe understands the difference and implications of just adding a premix to the radiator and mixing chemistries. Or, not achieving the proper concentration when doing a total flush with a premix.
 
I forgot that Zerex Asian Vehicle coolant does not available in concentrate. I got 2 jugs of Peak Professional Lifetime concentrate for $9.99 at Pep Boys after mail in rebate, I'll use it in '04 S2000 next year after fully flush out the factory filled.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
I'd rather pay $11 at NAPA for Peak Global Lifetime 100% coolant.

50/50 mix of 1/2 gal of water (about 20 cents) and 1/2 gallon of coolant is only useful IF you are adding to the engine. Can not do a flush and get 50/50 in the end no matter how many drains your engine has. And its not real a deal... Should have been priced about $5-6 MAX.

Too bad Zerex is only selling it as a mix....
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It is better than half off as compared to the Toyota pink. I just bought 2 gallons to put into my 2006 Toyota.
 
I prefer to use a concentration when doing a complete engine flush, but if you open the radiator drain and the block drain(s), unless your car is at some extreme angle which you shouldn't be trying to drain it at anyway, it will get more than enough out to keep you at 50/50 with the premix. The nice thing about Japanese cars is they are usually pretty easy to drain the block.
 
Use 100% coolant I can KNOW without question my actual percentages.

With 50/50 it will be less than 50% new coolant with old coolant or water making up the rest of it. I've never seen any block that 100% of the capacity come out.. (yes I have measured it)

There is always something that is left behind. Just like oil changes, you'll NEVER get all the old oil out.

Too bad Zerex does not offer it 100%. If they did, I may have went with it over Peak Global life time.

But too late, I've got a case and 1 gallon of Peak in my garage now.

Take care, bill
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
[/quote]It is better than half off as compared to the Toyota pink. I just bought 2 gallons to put into my 2006 Toyota.


Well Pink is a bigger rip off. That is why I just said no to any Toyota coolant.

Same with Subaru and their not as over priced (but still out of line) coolant. The Outback will be getting the same as my Corolla did next week.

I will put in the conditioner from Subaru since I still have a warranty to address for 25k/2 years more.

Take care, Bill
 
Yeah but Bill, if you assume you can't get all the coolant out through draining, then how can you reason what is left in the system and that you'll be exactly 50/50? With full strength, if you put half the capacity in FS A/F you can assume you are at least 50% antifreeze or more, that's true. If all you want to do is make sure you are at least over 50% AF, then it's best. But if you assume all the old can't be drained and flushed out then you can't assume you are exactly at or under 50%.

I think draining the radiator and block is sufficient to get the old coolant out. And it's usually easier to do on most Japanese cars, so I think they can get away with only offering 50/50 coolant. Anyway, I'm with you though that the FS is much more versatile and a better deal.
 
Finding block drains or not, as Bill alluded to, 50/50 premix is a significantly greater expense for the consumer when buying coolant. When one considers that it's half water, the premix also has a much greater profit margin for the manufacturer, in this case Ashland.

If I were going to use a Toyota coolant, I would use the full strength Long Life, not the premix Super long Life. Amazingly the pink premix is more expensive, but they are both too expensive.

A distilled flush series requires no block drains and distilled water is inexpensive, ~80 cents a gallon at Wally. Use full strength, easy to get the correct concentration.
 
I really suck at math, but if your vehicle already has 50/50 in it, and you drain the block and rad, and then refill with premixed 50/50, won't you still be at 50/50?
 
It all assumes that you would be able to get all the old out, and the system is totally empty when you find the drain(s). It likely doesn't. But, depending on that factor, you could likely get close. So your math's not too bad. lol It's sort of like getting all the oil out with a change, you can't.

But for me finding the block drains and getting them off, is no an easy task. Like Bill, I use a flush series and full strength. If all the factors previously mentioned with using the premix works for you, cool.
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Originally Posted By: rcy
I really suck at math, but if your vehicle already has 50/50 in it, and you drain the block and rad, and then refill with premixed 50/50, won't you still be at 50/50?


They are talking about (without explicitly saying in most cases) doing a flush with water means you can't be at 50/50 with a premix. If you do a simple drain & refill, the premix works fine. However, the concentrate would also work fine in that situation as well. You provide the purified water.
 
For a drain and fill 50/50 mix will be fine, but if you want to flush the system full strength is the way to go. With today's different flavors of coolant available you pretty much have to flush unless you stick with factory coolant, or you can waste 50/50 mix and keep flushing with coolant insted, but that is a waste of coolant, is costly and that in turn pretty much defeats the purpose of DIY'ing, you're better off going to the dealer and getting a machine flush.
 
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Originally Posted By: rcy
I really suck at math, but if your vehicle already has 50/50 in it, and you drain the block and rad, and then refill with premixed 50/50, won't you still be at 50/50?


To answer your question, yes, you will still have a 50/50 mix.
 
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: rcy
I really suck at math, but if your vehicle already has 50/50 in it, and you drain the block and rad, and then refill with premixed 50/50, won't you still be at 50/50?


To answer your question, yes, you will still have a 50/50 mix.


But you will NOT have 100% NEW 50/50 mix.

Next time you do a drain catch all of it (using the all the drains and if you have to take the hose off) and measure it.

Compare what you caught vs what the capacity is of your system.

I'll guarantee there will be quite a bit of difference between those 2 numbers.

My Corolla (for example a SIMPLE block) holds less than 7 quarts. More than a 1 quart does not come out using every drain available thing. So 1qt+ of old coolant is still there. (over 15%)

If I'm going to do something, I want to make sure that I get it correctly. Plus I run more coolant than 50% which is impossible with a 50/50 mix.

Then we add the rip off of 50/50 mix...
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Take care, bill
 
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Yeah but Bill, if you assume you can't get all the coolant out through draining, then how can you reason what is left in the system and that you'll be exactly 50/50? With full strength, if you put half the capacity in FS A/F you can assume you are at least 50% antifreeze or more, that's true. If all you want to do is make sure you are at least over 50% AF, then it's best. But if you assume all the old can't be drained and flushed out then you can't assume you are exactly at or under 50%.

I think draining the radiator and block is sufficient to get the old coolant out. And it's usually easier to do on most Japanese cars, so I think they can get away with only offering 50/50 coolant. Anyway, I'm with you though that the FS is much more versatile and a better deal.


Because I drain and refill more than once with distilled water. When it comes out clear or real close, I'm happy with that what is left (that I can NOT get out) is as close to 100% water.

Then I add the percentage of coolant of what I want (so for example on my Corolla which has a 6.9qt cap) I use 3.5 qts of 100% coolant and add the rest of water till full. Drive it around for a few miles and top off with water and I KNOW what my mix is.

I bought a gallon of 50/50 a few days ago at Wal-mart. It was Peak for $4.50 all colors/models for my work truck (2007 Toyota Tundra)

That is where a 50/50 mix is worthwhile and PROPERLY priced. Not for drain and refills esp if you are really wanting to get the old coolant out.

Take care, bill
 
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