Zddp good or bad for new direct injection petrol ?

Another question , how can you understand if an oil is low/mid or full saps with acea b specs? Also I notice that most oil manufacturers do not give any data analysis on how much ash/phosphorus amount is on the oil they sell?
 
ZDDP, being a synthesized ester with anti-oxidant properties, is a good LSPI quencher. It's a kinda a shame that API limits phosphorus and sulfur as boosted levels of ZDDP and MoDTC, plus a good dose of ester, makes a great LSPI resistant oil regardless of the calcium concentration.
 
Yes it's PSA EP6 engine Citroen DS3 1.6thp, 155bhp,

Nice little car, nice engine!


Citroen recommends low sap oil to reduce carbon built and fuel economy,

Low SAPS isn't for fuel economy. It's mainly for emissions systems. Mid or even low SAPS PCMOs
don't cause that much harm to the catalyst in particular when the engine is burning oil.


however I tuned my car to 233bhp and fuel economy is not my main concern, I want an oil with the best protection that's why I was looking at miller 5w40 CFS competition, redline motor oil 5w40. The problem with mid/full saps although they are very good for performance engines they have for ash/phosphorus amount and they built faster carbon on vavles .

Low or mid SAPS doesn't necessarily lead to reduced protection. VW 504 00, MB 229.51, BMW LL-04
and Porsche C40/VW 511 00 are known to provide excellent protection - proven by hundreds of UOAs.
Isn't there even one oil out there coming with both PSA and above mentioned approvals simultaneously?


I was looking at 5w40 with ester and extra zddp , although I don't know if this is a full or mid saps

Not sure if even 5W-40 is necessary as some 5W-30 are actually extremely stout, but I don't think
"high/fill SAPS" will helpt you at all. Lots of highly regarded "mid SAPS" with reputable approvals
out there. What does Peugeot recommend for the 270 HP version (308 GTi, RCZ-R)? Just wondering
about approval and viscosity. This should give you a hint about what's appropriate.

Anyway, at that power (and corresponding torque) I'd be more concerned about your (small) turbo
charger and your clutch. If one thing's for sure - the higher powered versions of the EP6 certainly
use to come with a bigger turbo and clutch (and uprated engine internals and stronger gearbox etc.).


It's a normal price for premium oils, it's cheaper than castrol magnatec

Just curious, in which country is Redline actually cheaper than a basic Magnatec?

Last not least, did you consider these? Redline-like base oil quality (PAO and Esters), excellent
additive packs and oustanding data along with the most reputable approvals (except RCS):


My take are REP and RUP (mid SAPS, IMHO ideal for DI turbos). RSP and RCS are high/full SAPS.
.
 
Nice little car, nice engine!




Low SAPS isn't for fuel economy. It's mainly for emissions systems. Mid or even low SAPS PCMOs
don't cause that much harm to the catalyst in particular when the engine is burning oil.




Low or mid SAPS doesn't necessarily lead to reduced protection. VW 504 00, MB 229.51, BMW LL-04
and Porsche C40/VW 511 00 are known to provide excellent protection - proven by hundreds of UOAs.
Isn't there even one oil out there coming with both PSA and above mentioned approvals simultaneously?




Not sure if even 5W-40 is necessary as some 5W-30 are actually extremely stout, but I don't think
"high/fill SAPS" will helpt you at all. Lots of highly regarded "mid SAPS" with reputable approvals
out there. What does Peugeot recommend for the 270 HP version (308 GTi, RCZ-R)? Just wondering
about approval and viscosity. This should give you a hint about what's appropriate.

Anyway, at that power (and corresponding torque) I'd be more concerned about your (small) turbo
charger and your clutch. If one thing's for sure - the higher powered versions of the EP6 certainly
use to come with a bigger turbo and clutch (and uprated engine internals and stronger gearbox etc.).




Just curious, in which country is Redline actually cheaper than a basic Magnatec?

Last not least, did you consider these? Redline-like base oil quality (PAO and Esters), excellent
additive packs and oustanding data along with the most reputable approvals (except RCS):


My take are REP and RUP (mid SAPS, IMHO ideal for DI turbos). RSP and RCS are high/full SAPS.
.
Hello and thank you for your reply and suggestions..

As I mention in my thread I don't know much about engine oils, I try to follow tuner's forums and local engineers recommendations ...

1. You are right the Peugeot rc-z 270bhp and 308gti have a very similar engine with my car but with higher factory power. These engine's internals are made to withstand the horsepower/torque of the engine, so let's say an rcz-r engine with 270bhp has strong enough internals to withstand this power. My car's factory power is 156bhp, but I have upgrade a few performance parts + a remap and is now producing 233+ bhp with stock internals, so from my point of view I need a much stronger/better protection oil than the recommended 0w30 low saps or 5w30 c1/c2 Citroen recommends, that's why I am looking at ester/nano tech oils.

2. I have upgraded to a bigger turbo and bigger front mount intercooler, clutch was slipping so I have uprated my clutch as well.

3. Apologies the castrol oil was Castrol edge titanium, more expensive in my country than redline 5w30/ 5w40.

4. I am not looking for a cheap oil, the oil I was using for the last year was miller's 5w40 CFS nt Motorsport oil. But am not sure if using a Motorsport oil for a daily use car with out any track or Motorsport use is ok?

5. I don't think I have a ravenol oil dealership in my country. As for the low/mid saps I read that for Di engines are preferred as they have less ash/phosphorus = less carbon built on the vavles , I think miller 5w40 CFS nt oil that I was using is a full saps ,that's why am looking for an alternative with similar specs (ester/nano drive) but mid saps oil so that it will contain less ash/phosphorus amounts.
 
zddp is an lspi quencher actually but if the engine burns oil it could increase the cats degradation but a new engine no matter what shouldn't burn anyway. if it does its a pos. they can burn once it hits at least 100k but to be honest you don't need a lot of zddp anymore these days.

Engine way back when did because the rest of the oil crap so you needed it. if i'm not mistaken i believe i heard that ultra platinum is suitable for flat tappet engines and i can kinda believe it.

Pennzoil platinum has like 500-600ish ppm of zddp yet its known to give great wear numbers and sometimes better than 1000+ppm oils. Zddp is more of an after protection for film shear or too thin of a film so why not bump a grade too. A lot of zddp is good for a car that gets tracked.
 
Another question , how can you understand if an oil is low/mid or full saps with acea b specs? Also I notice that most oil manufacturers do not give any data analysis on how much ash/phosphorus amount is on the oil they sell?

Any Ax/Bx oil is full saps, except if there's also a Cx rating quoted. A3/B4 has a 1.3% saps maximum
 
Is that bad for a petrol DI engine? (1.3% saps)

Why even consider that for a DI turbo? BMW specs LL-04 for these engines in Europe (which is where you seem to live, correct me if I'm wrong). So I'd just use that - BMW LL-04. If the oil in question also comes with MB 229.51 and/or Porsche C40/VW 511 00 simultaneously - even better. No oil will save your pistons from cracking if their temperature and combustion pressure exceed healthy limits.
 
Would you guys have thoughts on adding this to a new turbo BMW for break in?
IMG_9681.jpeg
 
Bueller ?
Bueller ??
No. What problem are you trying to solve? If you are paranoid just do what BMW does for M cars and change oil at 1200 miles. I see you have a G80, so just do what BMW recommends. There's no real upside to using that stuff.
 
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