You guys experiencing wild used car prices?

I suppose Metro Detroit area seems unaffected when it comes to 20+ year old cars.

2000 Honda Civic with 180k miles $2000

2004 Honda Civic 166k miles $3000, and hasn’t sold for at least 2 weeks.

Craigslist ads.

My 2001 Honda Civic has not appreciated much at all. I could get maybe $3000 for it at 150k miles.

Beater economy cars remain the best bargain transporters.
 
There are plenty of used cars out there. The ones that people want, the 3-year old off lease for example, don't sit on the lot for long. I helped my 2 oldest buy cars over the past several months, 2010 Camry (123k miles) and 2005 Pilot (190k miles) . both are one owner and well maintained. I figured I paid about $1000 more than normal on both cars.

LIke a few people have mentioned, lots of these overpriced used cars are sitting on the lot for a while. Many have multiple owners, no maintenance records, dents, interior smells like smoke, torn upholstery, not all components work, etc. My advise is be patient and don't be afraid to walk away. But if you find something you like, be ready to buy.
 
Asking price for decent 4th Gen Camaro/Firebird, GTOs, Trailblazer SS, G8, and CTS-V
High Performance is going the way of the dinos.

It's difficult to qualify High Performance when most of the econobox vehicles have a lot better power "standard" than in the past. Don't mess with a Tesla...

Sadly the 2021 Dodge Durango SRT Hellcat was killed off for 2022 due to evaporative emission laws put in place by the Obama Administration. Chip shortage made the production run even smaller. My buddy was nice enough to let me "sit" in his.

Now, having owned a new 2006 and a 2007 Trailblazer SS, bluntly they are something to avoid. Radiator is too thin, looking at the fan circle above the radiator in the shroud: GM wasn't even trying to do anymore than slap parts together and "HOPE". Beefed up 4L65E transmission, that should have been a 4L80E. It's 4L65E is known to literally grenade and blow the top of the case off if a sprag fails. Engine oil pickup in the front of the sump that gets uncovered during a hard launch at the track and starves rod bearings to failure (Just DUH!). The wrong oil (synthetic) specified and used for the Eaton posi in the rear end that ate the clutches quick. The hot air path over the top of the cooling stack made for miserable A/C performance. Nasty "ping" induced hesitation off the line that tuners were able to correct. The electrical problems from the HVAC connector, ignition switch browning things out, and the power windows burning them down...

Aftermarket stepped up to solve many of the above from the extreme of dropping in 4L80E, thicker radiators, oil pan with rear oil pump pickup...

Only because the Trailblazer SS had a hitch, the Jeep SRT8 didn't, I choose it to tow the Jet Boat I had at the time. The Trailblazer SS and GM's mediocre bean counter Diesels are why I bleed GM Orange but avoid GM anymore. Both the Trailblazer SS were pocket rockets, but, unreliable shop queens that ... only because GM went bankrupt GM didn't buy back the Lemon 2007 due to constant rear diff failures.

You couldn't give me a free Trailblazer SS in mint or any condition today.

I suggest this is why MOPAR and the Jeep SRT8 of the same vintage command higher prices.
 
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There are plenty of used cars out there. The ones that people want, the 3-year old off lease for example, don't sit on the lot for long. I helped my 2 oldest buy cars over the past several months, 2010 Camry (123k miles) and 2005 Pilot (190k miles) . both are one owner and well maintained. I figured I paid about $1000 more than normal on both cars.

LIke a few people have mentioned, lots of these overpriced used cars are sitting on the lot for a while. Many have multiple owners, no maintenance records, dents, interior smells like smoke, torn upholstery, not all components work, etc. My advise is be patient and don't be afraid to walk away. But if you find something you like, be ready to buy.
There's some deals out there if you know how to fix them. This car claims it has a blown transmission but typically when it doesn't want to shift out of first gear, that means the conductor plate is gone and you just need to replace the conductor plate, not the entire transmission. There's place that will rebuild the one you send them for $200-$400.

 
It's difficult to qualify High Performance when most of the econobox vehicles have a lot better power "standard" than in the past. Don't mess with a Tesla...

Sadly the 2021 Dodge Durango SRT Hellcat was killed off for 2022 due to evaporative emission laws put in place by the Obama Administration. Chip shortage made the production run even smaller. My buddy was nice enough to let me "sit" in his.

Now, having owned a new 2006 and a 2007 Trailblazer SS, bluntly they are something to avoid. Radiator is too thin, looking at the fan circle above the radiator in the shroud: GM wasn't even trying to do anymore than slap parts together and "HOPE". Beefed up 4L65E transmission, that should have been a 4L80E. It's 4L65E is known to literally grenade and blow the top of the case off if a sprag fails. Engine oil pickup in the front of the sump that gets uncovered during a hard launch at the track and starves rod bearings to failure (Just DUH!). The wrong oil (synthetic) specified and used for the Eaton posi in the rear end that ate the clutches quick. The hot air path over the top of the cooling stack made for miserable A/C performance. Nasty "ping" induced hesitation off the line that tuners were able to correct. The electrical problems from the HVAC connector, ignition switch browning things out, and the power windows burning them down...

Aftermarket stepped up to solve many of the above from the extreme of dropping in 4L80E, thicker radiators, oil pan with rear oil pump pickup...

Only because the Trailblazer SS had a hitch, the Jeep SRT8 didn't, I choose it to tow the Jet Boat I had at the time. The Trailblazer SS and GM's mediocre bean counter Diesels are why I bleed GM Orange but avoid GM anymore. Both the Trailblazer SS were pocket rockets, but, unreliable shop queens that ... only because GM went bankrupt GM didn't buy back the Lemon 2007 due to constant rear diff failures.

You couldn't give me a free Trailblazer SS in mint or any condition today.

I suggest this is why MOPAR and the Jeep SRT8 of the same vintage command higher prices.
My absoute favorite of all time muscle cars are the Dodge 1969 thru 1974 Chargers / the Plymouth Road Runners / GTX etc.... No normal person today without a bank vault full of money can own and maintain one of those. But as you mention the econo boxes of today... YES my 2009 Honda Accord with the 2.4l 4 cyclinder could easily outrun my last 400cui 4 barrel dual exhaust Chevelle S3. One day I realized that every single Chevy new car or truck I bought from around 1974 thru 1986 ALL needed a transmission replaced or rebuilt. Not a good quality pattern compared to the repairs $$$ I have not had to spend money on autos since we changed to the imports in 1990. Started with a Mitsu Galant that was amazing and so cost effcient. Then got into the Hondas and been buying one after another since the 1990s. Got two side by side in garage.
 
There's some deals out there if you know how to fix them. This car claims it has a blown transmission but typically when it doesn't want to shift out of first gear, that means the conductor plate is gone and you just need to replace the conductor plate, not the entire transmission. There's place that will rebuild the one you send them for $200-$400.

Oh yes I know. I decided after the last new one we bought in 2009 - no more new. I will search and take my time and often find real value with a nice broken in 2-3 year old low mile car. Never been disapointed or had to spend repair money on one. My youngest son and his wife took after me. They are now driving a Honda Pilot and Lincoln Navigator (both top of the line loaded with options) and saved at least $10,000 on each when they purchased. I know several people who in the past would have frowned on the thought of a used vehcile have come around to realize the great deals and money to be saved going that route. Hey its not for everyone but I like the idea of a proven , broken in vehicle for thousands less.
 
Used cars are up by about $5,000 over several months ago. Last week the rubber band CVT tranny went out of my daughters 2013 Nissan Rogue. Normally she would have dumped it and bought newer low mileage. In light of used car pricing she elected to spend $4,400.00 for a new tranny. Hopefully the car will go another two years until things stabilize somewhat.
 
Oh yes I know. I decided after the last new one we bought in 2009 - no more new. I will search and take my time and often find real value with a nice broken in 2-3 year old low mile car. Never been disapointed or had to spend repair money on one. My youngest son and his wife took after me. They are now driving a Honda Pilot and Lincoln Navigator (both top of the line loaded with options) and saved at least $10,000 on each when they purchased. I know several people who in the past would have frowned on the thought of a used vehcile have come around to realize the great deals and money to be saved going that route. Hey its not for everyone but I like the idea of a proven , broken in vehicle for thousands less.
That why I like Mercedes, they have a lot of nice options and they don't cheap out. But you can get a 5-6 year old model for 1/3 of list price and in the 50k range so they have lots of life left. Of course like any used car, if you take it to the dealer, you'll get killed on repairs. Usually 1/3 to 1/2 cheaper at the indy or DIY.
 
That why I like Mercedes, they have a lot of nice options and they don't cheap out. But you can get a 5-6 year old model for 1/3 of list price and in the 50k range so they have lots of life left. Of course like any used car, if you take it to the dealer, you'll get killed on repairs. Usually 1/3 to 1/2 cheaper at the indy or DIY.
Totally with you. All those options.... the wife got in a habit of wanting every option they had (except 6 cylinder engines we don't need) so I looked and thought about it. Last car she wanted would have been $34,000 out the door new. So she found the same exact vehicle and type 2 years old and for $22,000 so it was a no brainer.... Happy wife = happy life. Well , thats how it works out for me plus we got used to each other after 44 years with each other!
 
I can tell you one thing, we go to auctions weekly and dealers are paying high prices for cars because the demand is so high. Consumer demand and a crazy willingness to pay an obscene amount of money for a car is a big factor.
We buy nice newer model cars and also some of the older high mileage cars (what we call "tax" cars) that we have on the back row for people who can only afford a $3,995 car. (Yes, we have some ethics, they're still good cars, just not desirable by todays standards.)
Anyway, even the older high mileage cars are going for a lot more than they used to because some of the "buy here, pay here" guys are buying those up at higher prices now. What used to be an old, high mileage $1,000-1,500 car that needed a little work to make it reliable and sellable is now $2,000-2,500.
We've always tried to be fair on our pricing as we're a small car lot and we sell cars, not financing, (We don't do buy here, pay here) but the willingness of people to drop every penny that they have into a car payment to "keep up with the Jones's" is making that hard to do. It's happening in the new car market as much as the used car market. A good number of these cars bought by people keeping up with the Jones's end up at auction as repo's. Anyway, as I said in another thread, "If people are dumb enough to pay it, dealers are smart enough to take it."
Sorry about that last paragraph turning into a rant, but the consumer plays a big role in the crazy prices, it's not just dealers being greedy, although plenty of them are.
 
I can tell you one thing, we go to auctions weekly and dealers are paying high prices for cars because the demand is so high. Consumer demand and a crazy willingness to pay an obscene amount of money for a car is a big factor.
We buy nice newer model cars and also some of the older high mileage cars (what we call "tax" cars) that we have on the back row for people who can only afford a $3,995 car. (Yes, we have some ethics, they're still good cars, just not desirable by todays standards.)
Anyway, even the older high mileage cars are going for a lot more than they used to because some of the "buy here, pay here" guys are buying those up at higher prices now. What used to be an old, high mileage $1,000-1,500 car that needed a little work to make it reliable and sellable is now $2,000-2,500.
We've always tried to be fair on our pricing as we're a small car lot and we sell cars, not financing, (We don't do buy here, pay here) but the willingness of people to drop every penny that they have into a car payment to "keep up with the Jones's" is making that hard to do. It's happening in the new car market as much as the used car market. A good number of these cars bought by people keeping up with the Jones's end up at auction as repo's. Anyway, as I said in another thread, "If people are dumb enough to pay it, dealers are smart enough to take it."
Sorry about that paragraph turning into a rant, but the consumer plays a big role in the crazy prices, it's not just dealers being greedy, although plenty of them are.
I get every word you said. How long you been doing that? My neighbor across the street had his own lot (sounds similar to you) and retired and closed it two or three times and kept going back cause he was bored at home. He is finally now retired as he and the wife quit working at same time. I would have really enjoyed doing like you for the "going to acution" part of the job. Do you ever have to get any of them inspected or you can scope them out good enough for yourself?
 
I get every word you said. How long you been doing that? My neighbor across the street had his own lot (sounds similar to you) and retired and closed it two or three times and kept going back cause he was bored at home. He is finally now retired as he and the wife quit working at same time. I would have really enjoyed doing like you for the "going to acution" part of the job. Do you ever have to get any of them inspected or you can scope them out good enough for yourself?
Well I don't own the lot, a Friend of mine does. It's just the two of us, so we stay hooked up all the time. He has no problem spreading the wealth with me because he knows that he can trust me with his money and work gets done, this is a huge load off of his back.
I used to go to the auction every week, but now he goes and I stay at the lot to keep it open and to keep the work on the cars going. On alternating weeks he's out one day and then two the next for the sales here in AR and OK.
As of right now, we have an older retired guy that goes to the sales with him every week and he drives our car hauler. He enjoys it, he used to drive over the road and just loves to be out driving. They go and test the cars before the sale and make a list up. We're pretty good at scoping out any problems and some cars just have known issues that are fairly predictable.
The only time we have an inspection done is if we buy from a sale that is far away, but even then you have ten days to arbitrate something that is bought online with a green light at some sales. (Ride and drive)
He has to get there early to test the cars as there's so many buyers who will "sabotage" the cars to the point that they're almost undrivable. (pulling fuses, unplugging coil packs, MAF sensors, etc...) I would just get so aggravated about this part when I used to go all the time, especially when you pretty much know who's doing it but you can't do anything about it.
We used to have a girl that worked the office and sales, but she moved on to a very nice job and we just decided to make it without another person. This is why I stay behind now because we just can't close the lot down. Between detailing, mechanic work, sales, paperwork, etc....I never get bored. :LOL:
Somehow we manage to make it with the two of us. Monday-Friday, I put in a lot of hours as does he, I don't work Saturday and Sunday, that's Family time. He's down there everyday except sale days,...he has no life. :LOL:
It is very rare that either of us miss a day for whatever reason other than planned vacations. Unfortunately this week I won't be there as my wife tested + for the "virus that shall remain unnamed" yesterday evening and I have a runny nose and dry cough. We had a laugh about it though, last year he was out the week of Christmas for the same reason, this year, it's my turn I guess. At least it's kind of an off week for us auction wise as well as sales wise.
 
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Used cars are up by about $5,000 over several months ago. Last week the rubber band CVT tranny went out of my daughters 2013 Nissan Rogue. Normally she would have dumped it and bought newer low mileage. In light of used car pricing she elected to spend $4,400.00 for a new tranny. Hopefully the car will go another two years until things stabilize somewhat.
WOW! I know she did whats best for her. STILL it hurts to think $4,400
Well I don't own the lot, a Friend of mine does. It's just the two of us, so we stay hooked up all the time. He has no problem spreading the wealth with me because he knows that he can trust me with his money and work gets done, this is a huge load off of his back.
I used to go to the auction every week, but now he goes and I stay at the lot to keep it open and to keep the work on the cars going. On alternating weeks he's out one day and then two the next for the sales here in AR and OK.
As of right now, we have an older retired guy that goes to the sales with him every week and he drives our car hauler. He enjoys it, he used to drive over the road and just loves to be out driving. They go and test the cars before the sale and make a list up. We're pretty good at scoping out any problems and some cars just have known issues that are fairly predictable.
The only time we have an inspection done is if we buy from a sale that is far away, but even then you have ten days to arbitrate something that is bought online with a green light at some sales. (Ride and drive)
He has to get there early to test the cars as there's so many buyers who will "sabotage" the cars to the point that they're almost undrivable. (pulling fuses, unplugging coil packs, MAF sensors, etc...) I would just get so aggravated about this part when I used to go all the time, especially when you pretty much know who's doing it but you can't do anything about it.
We used to have a girl that worked the office and sales, but she moved on to a very nice job and we just decided to make it without another person. This is why I stay behind now because we just can't close the lot down. Between detailing, mechanic work, sales, paperwork, etc....I never get bored. :LOL:
Somehow we manage to make it with the two of us. Monday-Friday, I put in a lot of hours as does he, I don't work Saturday and Sunday, that's Family time. He's down there everyday except sale days,...he has no life. :LOL:
It is very rare that either of us miss a day for whatever reason other than planned vacations. Unfortunately this week I won't be there as my wife tested + for the "virus that shall remain unnamed" yesterday evening and I have a runny nose and dry cough. We had a laugh about it though, last year he was out the week of Christmas for the same reason, this year, it's my turn I guess. At least it's kind of an off week for us auction wise as well as sales wise.
Sounds just like the way my buddy operated except he could not get but only one guy to keep the job and work with him. He had to do 90% of the business and the other guy did sales only. That is so funny YET not surprising the part : buyers who will "sabotage" the cars to the point that they're almost undrivable. (pulling fuses, unplugging coil packs, MAF sensors, etc...) I would just get so aggravated about this part when I used to go all the time, especially when you pretty much know who's doing it but you can't do anything about it. If I find another classic I want and don't want to fly again to drive one back this time I may stick my neck out. Hire an inspector thru the classic car insurance company (JC TAYLOR I always used) and then have it shipped to me. Kind of scary though.
Hey, Take care of the wife and yourself. Same thing here. I was sick and on meds last week, now wife who is teacher is down with it and on antibiotics. Thank God her last day for the year is tomorrow. Take care and Happy Holidays......
 
I have a 2001 Camaro with a built 6.2L L92.....
*LS3 Intake Valves
*Cam Motion Stage 3 LS3 cam
*LS7 Lifters
*PAC Dual Valve Springs
*Hardened Pushrods
*New LS3 Rockers
*Durabond Coated Cam Bearings
*Hinson C6-R Timing Chain
*LS6 Oil Pump
*LS3 Intake
*LS3 Throttle Body
*LS3 Injectors
*Holley Billet Fuel Rails
*Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
*OE Gaskets throughout
*OE Piston Rings & King Rod/Main bearings
*5th Gen Camaro front accessories. (150amp alternator)
*New OE Delco Radiator
*Full Hooker Blackheart Dual Exhaust (1 7/8" Headers)

Built 4L65E that originally came out of a 2004 Cadillac Escalade.
*Converted to 2wd using a Sonnax 300M Output Shaft & a new OE 4th Gen F-Body Tailhousing.
*Sonnax Smart Shell
*Sonnax Reaction Shaft
*Sonnax 2.84 ratio 6-Pinion Input Carrier
*New OE GM 5-Pinion Output Carrier.
*Sonnax .490" Boost Valve.
*Sonnax Super Hold 2nd Piston
*Sonnax Super Hold 4th Piston
*Sonnax 2-4 band apply pin.
*TransGo Hardened Pump Rings.
*GM "C" code Accumulator Valve (Corvette/Camaro)
*Sonnax Pinless Forward Accumulator Piston
*Raybestos Pro-Series Wide 2-4 Band.
*7 BorgWarner 3-4 Frictions with Alto Kolene Steels & Sonnax Apply & Backing Plates.
*Sonnax Input Drum Reinforcement kit.
*New OE GM Reverse Input Drum
*Circle D 258mm Pro Series 3000 stall Billet Front torque converter.
*B&M Super Cooler.
*Fragola -6AN Cooer Lines & Fittings
*Scan Gauge to monitor trans temp

Built 7.6" 10 Bolt Differential....
*Yukon 3.08:1 gears
*Eaton TrueTrac Posi
*Koyo Bearings
*Aluminum Girdle style cover

Suspension, Front.....
*BMR Upper Control Arms.
*Rebuilt Lower Control Arms (Moog Ball Joints & Bushings)
*Spohn Tubular Cradle
*Bilstein Struts
*AC Delco Reman Rack & Pinion
*UMI Sway Bar.

Suspension, Rear.....
*BMR Lower Control Arms
*BMR Panhard Bar.
*Bilstein Shocks
*New OE GM Torque Arm Bushing
*Weld-in Subframe Connectors

Audio....
*Interior removed & Dynamat covering 100% of the floor
*JL Stealthbox with a 10" 3V3 Sub
*JL C3-650 Components in the Doors (Crossovers in the center console)
*Kenwood 5-Channel Amp, 60 watts RMS x 4 + 600 watts RMS x1
*It has some cheaper Kenwood speakers in a Sails, But I have them near faded out because the JL Components & Sub are more than enough for this car.
*Kenwood CD Head Unit.
*-4 gage Power & Ground ran under the carpet protected with layer of Dynamat (Same for the RCA's)

Wheels & Tires....
*17x9.5" Torq Thrust 2
*Michelin 275-45-ZR17 Pilot Sport AS 4

Brakes....
*Powerstop Drilled & Slotted Rotors
*Powerstop Ceramic Brake Pads.
*Powerstop Red Powdercoated Calipers & Brackets

Mustang Dyno numbers, This particular Dyno is known to break hearts but also known to be accurate per dragstrip ET's.....
*406 RWHP
*450 RWTQ

Transmission comes with a 3 year unlimited warranty....By ME, Cause that's what I do!

Color is Onyx Black, Little faded on the rear hatch & it has some bubbles on the Sail Panel but vey mild compared to some.
Front Driver seat foam is a little broken down.
Fuel Gauge is accurate but reads backwards because the P59 PCM I had to use for the LS3 Drive By Wire Throttle Body, Empty is Full & Full is Empty.

Everything works, AC will freeze you out & Heater will burn you out.

Entertaining realistic offers, PM me if interested.

 
I have a 2001 Camaro with a built 6.2L L92.....
*LS3 Intake Valves
*Cam Motion Stage 3 LS3 cam
*LS7 Lifters
*PAC Dual Valve Springs
*Hardened Pushrods
*New LS3 Rockers
*Durabond Coated Cam Bearings
*Hinson C6-R Timing Chain
*LS6 Oil Pump
*LS3 Intake
*LS3 Throttle Body
*LS3 Injectors
*Holley Billet Fuel Rails
*Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
*OE Gaskets throughout
*OE Piston Rings & King Rod/Main bearings
*5th Gen Camaro front accessories. (150amp alternator)
*New OE Delco Radiator
*Full Hooker Blackheart Dual Exhaust (1 7/8" Headers)

Built 4L65E that originally came out of a 2004 Cadillac Escalade.
*Converted to 2wd using a Sonnax 300M Output Shaft & a new OE 4th Gen F-Body Tailhousing.
*Sonnax Smart Shell
*Sonnax Reaction Shaft
*Sonnax 2.84 ratio 6-Pinion Input Carrier
*New OE GM 5-Pinion Output Carrier.
*Sonnax .490" Boost Valve.
*Sonnax Super Hold 2nd Piston
*Sonnax Super Hold 4th Piston
*Sonnax 2-4 band apply pin.
*TransGo Hardened Pump Rings.
*GM "C" code Accumulator Valve (Corvette/Camaro)
*Sonnax Pinless Forward Accumulator Piston
*Raybestos Pro-Series Wide 2-4 Band.
*7 BorgWarner 3-4 Frictions with Alto Kolene Steels & Sonnax Apply & Backing Plates.
*Sonnax Input Drum Reinforcement kit.
*New OE GM Reverse Input Drum
*Circle D 258mm Pro Series 3000 stall Billet Front torque converter.
*B&M Super Cooler.
*Fragola -6AN Cooer Lines & Fittings
*Scan Gauge to monitor trans temp

Built 7.6" 10 Bolt Differential....
*Yukon 3.08:1 gears
*Eaton TrueTrac Posi
*Koyo Bearings
*Aluminum Girdle style cover

Suspension, Front.....
*BMR Upper Control Arms.
*Rebuilt Lower Control Arms (Moog Ball Joints & Bushings)
*Spohn Tubular Cradle
*Bilstein Struts
*AC Delco Reman Rack & Pinion
*UMI Sway Bar.

Suspension, Rear.....
*BMR Lower Control Arms
*BMR Panhard Bar.
*Bilstein Shocks
*New OE GM Torque Arm Bushing
*Weld-in Subframe Connectors

Audio....
*Interior removed & Dynamat covering 100% of the floor
*JL Stealthbox with a 10" 3V3 Sub
*JL C3-650 Components in the Doors (Crossovers in the center console)
*Kenwood 5-Channel Amp, 60 watts RMS x 4 + 600 watts RMS x1
*It has some cheaper Kenwood speakers in a Sails, But I have them near faded out because the JL Components & Sub are more than enough for this car.
*Kenwood CD Head Unit.
*-4 gage Power & Ground ran under the carpet protected with layer of Dynamat (Same for the RCA's)

Wheels & Tires....
*17x9.5" Torq Thrust 2
*Michelin 275-45-ZR17 Pilot Sport AS 4

Brakes....
*Powerstop Drilled & Slotted Rotors
*Powerstop Ceramic Brake Pads.
*Powerstop Red Powdercoated Calipers & Brackets

Mustang Dyno numbers, This particular Dyno is known to break hearts but also known to be accurate per dragstrip ET's.....
*406 RWHP
*450 RWTQ

Transmission comes with a 3 year unlimited warranty....By ME, Cause that's what I do!

Color is Onyx Black, Little faded on the rear hatch & it has some bubbles on the Sail Panel but vey mild compared to some.
Front Driver seat foam is a little broken down.
Fuel Gauge is accurate but reads backwards because the P59 PCM I had to use for the LS3 Drive By Wire Throttle Body, Empty is Full & Full is Empty.

Everything works, AC will freeze you out & Heater will burn you out.

Entertaining realistic offers, PM me if interested.

WOOOOOF!!!!!!! Can we see some photos...? You sound like a master of what they call The RestoMods in muscle machine lingo!(y) Do you race or just like to go fast.
 
I just like to build stuff, Now that I finished it.....Kinda lost interest & wanna build something else. I financed this build by selling other finished projects.

Don't have many pics with the Torq Thrust wheels, And I recently got a new computer so I'd need to transfer some pics from my external hard drive....But here are a couple.

9tPY16G.jpg

gz6C6h4.jpg

2CIGrRf.jpg

lv1Ktow.jpg
 
Oh yeah. You got it in the blood for sure. Looks like you keep your stuff in tip top shape too.(y) I see you put some really good rubber and wheels on there. Looks like you got creative with steering? That is fine looking. I bet she is glued to the road. The engine is one of my favorite late model Chevy or PMD designs. At one point some years back everyone was putting them in all kind of late 60 / early 70s cars. Still are. I know what you mean, As soon as you finish, unless you have a strong passion for a certain car... it feels like time to move to the next project. I knew one guy who ONLY did 1966 & 1967 Chevelles and got so good and amassed so many parts and stuff , he could "make new" like a from the factory one in less than 12 months. They were also SOLD before he even put the paint to them. He kept trying to retire but folks wouldn't let him. His wife finally had to drop the hammer so they could enjoy retirement together.
 
There are plenty of used cars out there. The ones that people want, the 3-year old off lease for example, don't sit on the lot for long. I helped my 2 oldest buy cars over the past several months, 2010 Camry (123k miles) and 2005 Pilot (190k miles) . both are one owner and well maintained. I figured I paid about $1000 more than normal on both cars.

LIke a few people have mentioned, lots of these overpriced used cars are sitting on the lot for a while. Many have multiple owners, no maintenance records, dents, interior smells like smoke, torn upholstery, not all components work, etc. My advise is be patient and don't be afraid to walk away. But if you find something you like, be ready to buy.
OK-so you paid more than you would have before. But on a $20,000 car the "supply and demand" price point is like $5,000.00 dollars more. You are not going to have a $3,000.00 beater go up $5,000-generally.
 
vzDJPGnNTB+8jXFgihjRJg.jpg
GHzCKZcISOmeuYtJ+WYrKQ.jpg

This 1996 Collector's addition is priced at $14,500 with 39,750 miles. I don't know how you could go wrong with a deal like that. I do agree prices are crazy especially for late 60s and early 70s sought after muscle cars. There are some really good deals out there but you have to be at the right place at the right time and have the money in hand before someone else beats you to the steal.
 
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