yay my first leather interriour. what do i do now?

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so my car originally came with cloth seats and a rubber steering wheel. i found a luxury version of my car in the junkyard and scored the black leather seats front rear and black leather steering wheel out of it. the seats and steering wheel are in great condition, no rips or cracking. they have 6 way electric controls as a bonus. my cloth seats were manual.
but the leather feels so stiff. i think it should be soft like leather gloves are. these seats have probably never had any cleaner or conditioner applied to them.

so what to use to recondition some neglected seats?
 
I don't know how oild your car model is but the leather may be vinyl coated.


Leather care
There has been a change in the manufacturing of leather in recent years, which can require a different approach as far as it’s care is concerned and it applies to MOST leathers made for U.S. made cars. This change is a clear vinyl coating over the leather as a finish. There are exceptions as to which car companies use this, so later I’ll give a test to perform to determine exactly which you may have. My SC has clearcoated leather, but Ford is liable to have changed back and forth for all I know, so I hate to assume.

One thing you DON’T want to put on your leather regardless of the type is saddle soap. Believe it or not , saddle soap is not good for today’s leathers. It is alkaline , and alkalinity is bad for leather , which likes a PH neutral product. Years ago, the way leather was tanned allowed for saddle soap, which was basically an oil in a soap, to soften the tanned leather hides. But it’s a poor cleaner,and can actually push dirt back into leather, and today’s products do a much better job of cleaning and conditioning leather, without the alkalinity of S.S. ( BTW- Ph scale runs 0 to 14, with acids making up 0-6… 7 being water ( neutral ) and alkalines above 7 making up the high end of the scale )

Here’s how to find out if your leather is clearcoated: Take a white rag, and spray a spritz of Simple Green, Castrol Super Clean, 409 or equivalent on it, and go to an inconspicuous place on one of the seats. The hidden part between the backrest and seat cushion is a good spot. Rub the rag and cleaner on a small spot there. If you see the color of the leather coming off on the rag, you DON’T have clearcoated. If you don’t see color/dye on the rag, the it IS coated. If you do have coated leather, you can safely use a PDMS silicone product such as the 303 or Vinylex , which also has cleaners in it, to keep it supple and add UV protection. If it’s uncoated, go with your favorite leather dressing-cleaner and conditioner combo. The latter is best applied with your hand, and allowed to sit a few minutes. After about 5 minutes, the leather will have absorbed all the conditioner it’s going to, so you then want to just wipe/buff the excess off with a white cotton rag/towel.


I've also read another way of determining if the leather is clearcoated or not is to let a few drops of water fall on the leather.If it soaks in uncoated,if not coated.Seems the way above might be more true.
You really don't have to spend your money on expensive leather conditioners if your leather is clearcoated.
I have leather that's clearcoated and still use an pretty expensive Zaino conditioner.I like the satin sheen and leather smell Zaino provides.
 
Ideally, Lexol conditioner works best when it is applied liberally on the leather and lightly agitated with a boar's hair brush (or equivalent). Try to let it soak for at least half an hour. You will have to do some heavy buffing to remove it, and the surface may feel "greasy" for a little while, but the lanolins and conditioners will penetrate better. The slickness will go away in a day or two.

A little uncomfortable, yes. But if you use a light coat of conditioner with no agitation and remove it after a short while, your leather will not see much benefit.
 
I'll second the Leatherique. Used to use Lexol, but it was just a tad greasy for my tastes. The Zaino is nice stuff too, but seems to be biased towards plain conditioning.

Leatherique is a 2 part or 1 part system, depending on the level of care thats needed. For hard, neglected leather, you use the Rejuvenator. Apply it by hand (yes, bare hand) or with a lightly dampened towel (microfiber or cotton) which is my preferred method. Cover the seats with large trash bags and let it bake in the sun for the day. Next day, the seats will look nasty. Blotchy with a whitish residue would be perfect. That indicates that all the dirt, skin oils and salts have been driven from deep in the pores of the leather and "floated" to the surface. From here, you use the Pristine clean with a slightly damp towel and clean off the residue. Then you should be left with is a clean, even, supple surface. Maintain (depending on use) every 3-6 months with just the Pristine clean. Seems extreme and labor intensive, but its not that bad. Especially with the results you get from doing it this way.

I "brought back" a neighbor's 1988 5 series Bimmer seats that felt like sitting on cardboard. They weren't cracked (surprisingly), just hadn't been cleaned or nourished, probably since new. The leather in these older European cars is very thick and durable, not like what is offered nowadays. Even though the leather in this car seemed clean (just hard) it took 2 sessions with the Rejuvenator. But they look great now, and the suppleness is back too. Made the owner very happy. Gave him the 1/3 remainder of my Pritine Clean for him to do the maintenance with. Seemed like a good trade for the $100 he gave me to do the seats
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. We'll see if he keeps up with it.
 
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I use Griot's garage products on my 330ci and the leather looks like new after 6 years and 100k miles.
Use it about three times a year.
To clean the leather prior to treating with Griot's, I use a soft cotton towel misted with distilled water to wipe the seats down.
If I think it's necessary, I use a boars hair brush and vacuum to get dirt out of the seams before the misted towel cleaning.
Works well on all my cars...2 Mazdas, a BMW and a Chevy. Cheers!
 
I use Groit's also - have been for many years. Great stuff and the leather scent is divine. He also offers a leather rejuvenator product that works well on neglected leather. I use Griot's interior cleaner before using the leather care. Cleans deeper than water alone.
 
OK a question, this talk about all these leather products, are they even worth it if your seats are vinyl coated? I mean, would the product even reach the leather underneath? Or am I just better off with an "Armour All" type of product?
 
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
I use Groit's also - have been for many years. Great stuff and the leather scent is divine. He also offers a leather rejuvenator product that works well on neglected leather. I use Griot's interior cleaner before using the leather care. Cleans deeper than water alone.


Lol, now I know autoworkers are overpaid!
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Seriously, though, y'all have luck with Griot's? I love the catalogs but have never had the nerve to order the stuff. You're the first folks I've ever heard of that use it. I figured it was okay. I just didn't know if it was worth it. I'm tired of every time I go to buy car wash supplies, there is a completely different set of products than the last time I went. I've gotten to where my routine consists of Dawn dish soap and Turtlewax...
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Anyway, I know a lot of SAAB snobs that use Gliptone Liquid Leather Cleaner and Conditioner.

http://www.gliptone.com/retail/
 
Shortyb: Thanks for the Leatherique endorsement. What I had already read about it just sounded too good to be true, and at over $30 a pop, it wasn't something to just try and see.

I prefer cloth so I wasn't thrilled that the only choice on my CL-S was leather, but since it's perforated it isn't so hot and doesn't make my back wet. I was prepared to get sheepskins. Problem spots have been around the rear headrests where the sun always beats down, so those areas have become hard and shrunken despite regular use of products.

I'd also point out that before rubbing on anything, grit (which is especially bad in FL) needs to be brushed and vacuumed up while spreading apart the seams with your fingers to get everything out. Rubbing stuff on works best with bare hands.
 
BrianWC - then I'll "third" the Griot's leather care products. I don't care for some of his other exterior products but I really like the results of the leather care ones (and like the scent). My daughter rides horses and I used the Griots on her used saddle, and now half the barn wants her "secret stuff" for their high dollar leather tack :)
 
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