Yaris 2sz-fe oil is smelling gasoline

[medunko]

l know is small sump (3.2 quarts with filter) in this Toyota-Daihatsu 2sz-fe engine Toyota Yaris (French build – 2006 – 62 k miles). This is a fill of 3.2 quarts with MOTUL 8100 X-CESS 5W-40, ACEA A3/B4; API SM/CF, MB 229.5; VW 502.00/505.00; GM-LL-B-025; RENAULT RN 0710/0700; FIAT 9.55535-H2 ;FIAT 9.55535-M2 ; FIAT 9.55535-N2 ; FIAT 9.55535-Z2 ; PSA B71 2296; Porsche-A40, that I put in November usually, with a Mann oil filter. Air filter was also Mann filter. Ran 1 year. Probably 90% of it was severe service, 1.5 mile drive to work, until 5 then drive home. 10 or more trips to my village 25 miles in the mountain and back.

3000 miles for one year.

The engine is specs for 5w30, and obviously severe service too, according Toyota manual.

The problem is that the oil is smelling gasoline and darkening very fast -100 miles, and the end of the year is dark (diesel dark).
Recently I changed plugs, it looks clean inside, engine is not burning oil, there no faults in ECU.

My question is to change the oil twice with 5w30 A5/B5 or with 5w30 C3 I know that TBN numbers are pretty low on mid saps oils, or to use some “stout” brand yearly.

Thank you for your advice!

P.s. congratulations to wonderful forum!

 

[simple_gifts]

Searching it appears that engine is direct injection; are you are aware that fuel dilution is often a by product of this technology?

 

[CharBaby]

I’ve never owned a vehicle where the oil didn’t smell like fuel at some level. Travel fewer daily mi/km and the oil will actually stink like fuel. With more efficient/longer daily trips the oil will still smell, just less so.

 

[Thomas Campbell]

Have a UOA done and determine if you have fuel dilution and if it's enough to warrant a shorter oci.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Ran 1 year. Probably 90% of it was severe service, 1.5 mile drive to work, until 5 then drive home. 10 or more trips to my village 25 miles in the mountain and back.

3000 miles for one year.

Time for an oil and filter change if the oil is smelling badly of gasoline.

 

[medunko]

Thanks you all for replies!
I do some search in the net too see if the engine is Di.
My mechanic say it’s because of short trips. Sound reasonable but my other corrola 1zz fe 2004 is in perfect shape regarding smell, Color of the oil. Truly the trips are longer but 1zz fe is easy on oil.

 

[medunko]

Have a UOA done and determine if you have fuel dilution and if it's enough to warrant a shorter oci.

I’m in Europe , it’s not impossible but a little bit difficult to make UOA..

 

[medunko]

Searching it appears that engine is direct injection; are you are aware that fuel dilution is often a by product of this technology?

Are you sure, it’s the successor of 1sz fe. Traditional engine….

 

[DC11]

2SZ-FE is a great engine. It uses 0w20 oil in Japanese market (search HKS oil selector) there was few very long debates on popular russian oil web site about why 0w20 usage is better. In Europe 5w30 on lower part of viscosiy range like ACEA A5 is prescribed - Ford Formula F / Motorcraft 5w30, ELF SXR 5w30, Total NFC 5w30, Castrol Magnatec Professional A5. Problem is on small distances - engine never achieves working temperature. Higher W rating could perhaps improve cilinder bypass and lower PCV fumes, but using too viscous oil colud also interfere with valve timing which is not good for the engine. Car becomes sluggish.
In mine I'm currently using 5w20 Bizol G+ with Mann 68/3 filter; it is low milage Toyota Yaris 2005 with max 2000km done in a year mostly on short distances; oil change once a year in springtime. Oil does not turn black at all; engine is quiet and responsive, it starts easily, and there is not strong smell of gasoline on the end of interval. 5w20 also should be more resilient to shredding than 0w20 as fewer VII are used in production, but I believe that any new standard ILSAC GF 6A rated oil would be just fine.

 

[DC11]

Are you sure, it’s the successor of 1sz fe. Traditional engine….

2SZ-FE is not GDI engine.

 

[kschachn]

2SZ-FE is a great engine. It uses 0w20 oil in Japanese market (search HKS oil selector) there was few very long debates on popular russian oil web site about why 0w20 usage is better. In Europe 5w30 on lower part of viscosiy range like ACEA A5 is prescribed - Ford Formula F / Motorcraft 5w30, ELF SXR 5w30, Total NFC 5w30, Castrol Magnatec Professional A5. Problem is on small distances - engine never achieves working temperature. Higher W rating could perhaps improve cilinder bypass and lower PCV fumes, but using too viscous oil colud also interfere with valve timing which is not good for the engine. Car becomes sluggish.
In mine I'm currently using 5w20 Bizol G+ with Mann 68/3 filter; it is low milage Toyota Yaris 2005 with max 2000km done in a year mostly on short distances; oil change once a year in springtime. Oil does not turn black at all; engine is quiet and responsive, it starts easily, and there is not strong smell of gasoline on the end of interval. 5w20 also should be more resilient to shredding than 0w20 as fewer VII are used in production, but I believe that any new standard ILSAC GF 6A rated oil would be just fine.

No. And oil grade is irrelevant in regards to the topic of causing fuel dilution. But a higher grade will help to mitigate the effects.

The OP needs to determine if he actually has significant fuel dilution as the nose is not accurate. If he does then a look at a mechanical issue is in order.

 

[medunko]

I’ll try to change the oil twice an year. 5w30.
Talking about mechanical issues- there’s not written faults. Proven by techstream.
All fluids , except oil , are clear, changed.
In springtime I’ll check the nozzles.

 

[kschachn]

If it were me, I wouldn’t go through the time and expense of having the fuel nozzles flow checked without knowing that there was a problem in the first place.

And your use of of 40-grade is fine but likely not necessary in this engine.

 

[medunko]

Ok, why for 100 miles oil is turning diesel black and smelling badly gasoline?
I suggest that in Toyota service (I have full service history) did not change the oil twice per year cause the miles are few….and then the consequences…..

 

[kschachn]

Ok, why for 100 miles oil is turning diesel black and smelling badly gasoline?
I suggest that in Toyota service (I have full service history) did not change the oil twice per year cause the miles are few….and then the consequences…..

Well, now you are giving us new information. Which is it? Do you distrust the dealer or do you think there is a mechanical problem?

Where in Europe are you exactly?

 

[medunko]

No, I think the deal should change the oil twice for the beginning ( severe exploration) short trips.
The fact that other users Dc11 did not have this problem is a proof that probably I have oil related issues.

 

[PWMDMD]

I’ve never owned a vehicle where the oil didn’t smell like fuel at some level. Travel fewer daily mi/km and the oil will actually stink like fuel. With more efficient/longer daily trips the oil will still smell, just less so.

I too have never owned a vehicle where the oil didn't smell like gas. Many have had UOAs (from places other than BS) with no detectable gasoline.

This is why I don't think the look (dark), smell (gas), taste (someone around here has probably tried it), sound (ticking), or feel (slipperiness) of oil have any quantitative or meaningful value.

 

[medunko]

In my 1 zzz fe Corolla I have such a issue , same oil.

 

[kschachn]

It’s not the oil. The Motul product is entirely serviceable here. So it’s not the dealer you’re worried about but a possible mechanical issue?

Where in Europe are you again?

 

[medunko]

Correction : I don’t have such a problem- after 100 miles the oil is invisible on the dipstick and not smellin gas.