Wrong M1 added what to do now?

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M1 10W30 is good to -25F(cold Cranking) no problem and it is not going to hit -25F in Indiana any time soon. M1 10W30 is almost a 20 weight oil and their 0W20 is almost a 30 weight. You will not notice the difference at all. I would make it a point not to go to that same place again.

If you can not trust tthe place working on the car then you are at the wrong place!

P.S. You should probably take your own oil. It is not practicle to expect a place to keep a 20Wt oil on hand. THis is especialy true if you are wanting synthetic oil from another supplier other then their own. To date the only place I have been able to find any 0WX oils or 20Wt oils is at parts stores. TO date not a single large retail chain in my area carriers these oils.

[ January 08, 2004, 09:55 PM: Message edited by: JohnBrowning ]
 
I feel safe with the 10w30.

I have a company 2002 F150 4X4 super cab with a 5.4L Triton V8 that calls for 5w20. When I asked Jiffy Lube what weight they were using they told me 10w30 because they where out of 5w20. Funny thing is, if it was my personal vehicle I would rather they used 10w30. I wish they would always use 10w30 in it.

My personal 1998 F150 5.4L Triton with 69,000 miles calls for 5w30 but I use 10w30. I'm with the other respondents who say change it yourself. I'm 41 and have changed my oil since I've been 15.
 
M1 10W30 will hold its ground.

I work part time as a service advisor and all the bitog's knowledge puts me at a great advantage from a customer service and technical standpoint.

Kudo's to that dealer, keep the M1 and do not complaine. Although I can not attack 20weights, i think the 30 is an excellent choice.

Hence, I advocate the recommendation of your service station.

What is funny is how people are absolutely terrified of running a 40wieght in a 30weight OE application.

Or in your case vice versa. 20weights only exist to keep some liberal feds happy on paper. They could care less about engine life.
 
Leave it in. Bring your own oil to the Honda dealer for the next change. 5w-30 next time, the 10w-30 is practicly the same thing, you are garaged anyway.
 
No offense guys, but, I say change your own oil if your not going to a dealer. Jiffy lube is a pos place that teenagers work at for minimum wage screwing up your vehicle. What makes you actually think they put m1 in? They probably didn't to cut costs(ever notice they never do it by quarts, just by barrels, sounds suspicious to me). You figure a regular oil change is 25 bucks, hell you can do a syn change for that price and have money left over rather than let a bunch of chumps do it and screw around with your car.
 
If for no other reason than to simply teach Iffy Lube a lesson, I'd go back there and raise a huge stink until they put the 0w20 in there! They should be made to pay for their mistake.
 
Lets take a look from the manufactures side of things ........... you are still under warranty so you should be keeping reciepts indentifying what the date , mileage , oil and filter used so I would get some 20wt in there and reciepts for it along with one for a filter in case you ever have mechanical problems unrelated to this oil change .
 
Did the guy talk her into it and she approved that oil or did you discover it after you got home?

Either way I doubt it will make any change over the life time of the car. Some knowledgeable people here would try to talk you into using the heaver oil especially if it is synthetic with its better low temperature flow qualities.

I would leave it in and treat it as an experiment to see how it does. Maybe you will be able to add to the on going arguement about what oil to use in Hondas.

Are you going to use 0W 20 next?

quote:

Originally posted by jhlewis10:
My wife took our 03 Honda Odessey to a Jiffy Lube and was talked into 10w 30 Mobile 1, the guy said it would be ok.



[ January 09, 2004, 10:28 AM: Message edited by: White 03 ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by mrhonda:
I'd take it back and say thanks for the flush... now put the right stuff in.

I agree.
cheers.gif
 
The thing is, if the tech asked if it was okay to go with 10W30 and your wife said fine. They didn't do anything wrong. They do that all the time. Some people like to use oil that isn't exactly what the manufacturer requires i.e. 0W30 / 5W30 / 0W40 in vehicle that requires 10W30 etc.

Personally, M1 10W30 is a great oil and I'd leave it in and run as usual. If it concerns you a lot, then short interval and change it as 2,000 3,000 or 5,000 miles.
 
quote:

Originally posted by palmerwmd:

quote:

Originally posted by buster:
Your fine just leave it in there. M1 10w-30 is a good grade and will flow well below Zero.

Amen.

M1 10w-30 is a better oil than any 0w-20 dino oil.

Fred..
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There is no such thing as a 0w20 dino oil. All the 0w20s out there are full synthetics.

And as far as 5w20s go, none of them can be considered dino either, since they are mostly group 3 built oils. Pennzoil's 5w20 contains 60% group 3 in it's base oil for instance (and it's not even sold as a blend, this is the lowest priced 5w20 I'm talking about)
 
quote:

Originally posted by Drew99GT:
The guy is from Indiana, not Alaska. 10w-30 is approved in most manuals to 0 degrees F, and -4 F in some others.

And the manuals assume dino so with a syn he would be safer to much lower temps.

Fred..
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Since your wife was the driver/customer and ok'd the switch, I don't see where you have a leg to stand on against JL. If you send her to get oil changes in the future, explain to her what grade you want in the car and tell her to be firm.
 
First of all we cant take it back because we were in Fl on vacation or I would. I told her we needed 5w20 and to get synthetic if they had it. They only had M1 10/30 she asked if that would be ok because I told her 5w20. The tech said the 10w30 would be fine. Based on this she agreed.

I think I may try the 0w 20 next but need to read up on it first, This is my first time on this site and I have alot to learn. Before this I thought oil was oil!
 
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