Would you ever use the same oil filter more than twice?

4WD

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If Im bothering to go under the car I'll change it out, but with a top side changer you dont need to go under the rig.

I've probably saved 50 hours of time in the 20 years I've had a mityvac.

I can do a 5 QT oil only change in about 15 minutes using one, and for 10 of those minutes I can go do something else.
Same with my little ball valve that Arco objects to calling by name 😷
 
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Same with my little ball valve that Arco objects to calling by name 😷

Ive used the ball valve deals in commercial apps with pretty good success (never a mechanism fail) what I mean is the stream would either spray on something requiring cleanup, or I would always get a few more drips after everything was done.

Im a lil nervous of off road application using them where the pan and valve are exposed.

sometimes they would drain very slowly, but in a walk away scenario where Im not on a clock that was fine.

that said - Sometimes a mityvac just won't work- it didn't on my onan 8K so I went ball valve and it took me 2 orders to get it right as the online guides didnt have it correct.
 

4WD

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Ive used the ball valve deals in commercial apps with pretty good success (never a mechanism fail) what I mean is the stream would either spray on something requiring cleanup, or I would always get a few more drips after everything was done.

Im a lil nervous of off road application using them where the pan and valve are exposed.

sometimes they would drain very slowly, but in a walk away scenario where Im not on a clock that was fine.

that said - Sometimes a mityvac just won't work- it didn't on my onan 8K so I went ball valve and it took me 2 orders to get it right as the online guides didnt have it correct.
Yep, got it on the Tahoe and it stopped the 8 quart surge of 0W20 splashing all over … it’s also great when I leave the filter on … no ramps. Or I want to swap one quart at 40% OLM (GDI) …
Agree on off-road … no intention to use on my Rubicon … but that’s a ramp free drain plug and top filter
I bought a vac - bit it’s an off brand I used for ATF a couple times …
 
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If Im bothering to go under the car I'll change it out, but with a top side changer you dont need to go under the rig.

I've probably saved 50 hours of time in the 20 years I've had a mityvac.

I can do a 5 QT oil only change in about 15 minutes using one, and for 10 of those minutes I can go do something else.

Thank you Sir, you've articulated an additional point I agree with and rationale for changing the filter about every 3rd low-mileage change about month 12-18. Top side oil change, very quick and low mess. And skipping replacing about 10 filters pays for the MityVac, our in a few years this tool pays for itself in materials and more than pays for itself in time savings.
 
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Have you ever pulled the drain plug after the suck job, to see how much residual oil it leaves behind?

Yes I wondered the same thing and early on pulled plugs after and in my cases saw nada.
Its really good. It turns out its equal or better in many cases as the drain plug is quite often not at the lowest point in a pan.
Ken Bergsma discusses this, but a bunch of other guys tried it as well. There a bunch of online vids you can find.

It seems if it works its as good or better, but sometimes it just won't work.
Bummer - there is no central place to go where guys discuss its misses I can find so a guy would know.

I use it for other fluids as well trans, transfer cases, diffs. Whenever I can use it I do.
 
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Have you ever pulled the drain plug after the suck job, to see how much residual oil it leaves behind?

No. The MV has measuring hash marks. I can tell pretty clearly I'm extracting at least as much as a pan drain. No need to mess with pulling the bolt, which I like due to the time/hassle/mess and risks of stripping, and the extra $1 for a new gasket, and worry about tightening torque, etc.

And I agree, while it doesn't work on some vehicles, and it's obvious when you try, on mine that it does work on I get sometimes MORE oil out than with a bolt pull. The measurements don't lie.
 
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Thank you Sir, you've articulated an additional point I agree with and rationale for changing the filter about every 3rd low-mileage change about month 12-18. Top side oil change, very quick and low mess. And skipping replacing about 10 filters pays for the MityVac, our in a few years this tool pays for itself in materials and more than pays for itself in time savings.

With 6 vehicles plus helping friends the time savings is notable.

Not to mention inheriting a rounded stripped problem (like every car my sister ever used had that) you can simply deal with it a different way that doesn't require any tools or washers.
 
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You can be certain that Honda has tested and researched this extensively before they even considered promoting this. Random people with their anecdotal cases (or "experience") aren't going to sway Honda either.... That said, while I'm not made of money, I replace the filter each time. It costs less than $6 and I'm already under the car. Even Honda dealers replace them, or at least on paper they say they do.

Agreed, but.... I would imagine we could go down a very deep rabbit-hole when it comes to this entire "Change the filter every OCI" question.

For me... leaving a "premium" filter in place for 10-12k OCI's and using my MitiVac to replace the oil every 5-6k makes sense to me.

My "only" concern would be the degradation of the filter. And.... really... an argument could be stated that changing or disrupting the filter itself allows contaminants to be released into the surrounding enclosure and so forth.

Those worried about X-amount of dirty oil?? Well, what about all the oil pockets, galleries, lines etc.? It's impossible to get 100% out.

And...there is some evidence that a filter actually works "better" the longer it's in use.

It's not that I am "cheap".... but using a Mitivac to change my oil has really made it easier for me. Top-load filters are great.... (Subaru for example).

For me.... there are too many other maintenance items that SHOULD be done rather than changing the oil filter every change.
 
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Just remember, these "engineers" who "researched" leaving an oil filter on for double the service, are the same guys who have given you "lifetime" transmission fluid.

And then again... Unless it's a severe service vehicle, I don't see any problem with it. We don't grease our wheel bearings anymore either.

Transmission fluid isn't exposed to internal combustion conditions so nowhere near as important to change.

And yes... they (engineers) aren't in the business of making a vehicle last longer... Cheaper? Yes.
 
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Just remember, these "engineers" who "researched" leaving an oil filter on for double the service, are the same guys who have given you "lifetime" transmission fluid.

I hear you on the fluid....on the oil filter...there's multiple guys that tout this though, not just a lone engine manufacturers.

The filter manufacturers being the majority - thats why there are 10, 15 and 20K filters.
These guys know very well manufacturers intervals are well below those numbers and the filter is designed and rated to stay on.

They are designed to last multiple OCI's and are constructed to handle this.

I understand tossing them, I grew up that way myself. If you start looking at hundreds of UOA's you'll quickly find you simply cannot see any difference. Discovering this site allowed me to see more than any brand or model specific site like a lexus or f150 forum.

Passenger vehicles are really lightly loaded- something like under 25% on average vs a boat thats pushing 80% or big RV.
 

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And...there is some evidence that a filter actually works "better" the longer it's in use.
Not really ... but an oil filter can become that way only when the filter is almost 100% clogged and probably already in or very near to bypass, but nobody should be using them that long.

It's been shown - even with Andrew's ISO 4548-12 lab testing - that oil filters slowly lose efficiency as they load up. Some are way worse than others. Oil filters with a high ISO efficiency are much less likely to lose efficiency with use and loading. That is one positive reason to use a high efficiency oil filter, especially if doing long filter change intervals.

If you read this thread from the point the link puts you, the phenomenon of efficiency lose is discussed in more detail.

 
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Planned Obsolescence is a fact. But, everything is about $. No pride in manufacturing.

Most, but not all.

I run a family owned company at the high end of our market - we're the snap on/ Rolls royce/ Apple of our industry.

We take care of our clients and partners, and they reward us with loyalty and business.
 
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Not really ... but an oil filter can become that way only when the filter is almost 100% clogged and probably already in or very near to bypass, but nobody should be using them that long.

It's been shown - even with Andrew's ISO 4548-12 lab testing - that oil filters slowly lose efficiency as they load up. Some are way worse than others. Oil filters with a high ISO efficiency are much less likely to lose efficiency with use and loading. That is one positive reason to use a high efficiency oil filter, especially if doing long filter change intervals.

If you read this thread from the point the link puts you, the phenomenon of efficiency lose is discussed in more detail.


Very interesting. Thanks for the link and article. Good to know also as I'm a WIX XP user (Along with Gold). May need to look closer at efficiency levels in the future.
 

ZZman

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If Im bothering to go under the car I'll change it out, but with a top side changer you dont need to go under the rig.

I've probably saved 50 hours of time in the 20 years I've had a mityvac.

I can do a 5 QT oil only change in about 15 minutes using one, and for 10 of those minutes I can go do something else.
Are you talking something similar to this?
 

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Are you talking something similar to this?

Yes sir.

I'm pretty sure that version both extracts and dispenses.

The one I have is extract only and I have other units that dispense.
Its old, so likely not the same version, but it deoinst hav the external cylinder.

There is also a version thats pneumatic -so if all your work is in sth shop those are faster and of course no p[umping.

Ive got stuff in sheds, and other garages so the hand pump version works better for me.



mitmv7400.jpg
 
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And yes... they (engineers) aren't in the business of making a vehicle last longer...
Yes they are. No engineer wants to design or build junk. Do they have constraints forced on them that makes them cut corners ? Yes.

I used to work for a very large pump manufacturer. Our market was the chemical industry with customers like duPont, Eastman Chemical, Dow, BASF, etc, etc. The "power" end of our pump was designed to offer a lifetime warranty. Yes, bearings and bearing isolators (or lip seals) wore out but those are maintenance items (and outsourced from companies like SKF, Inpro, etc). Was cost no object ? Nope, there was definitely a budget that still had to be met.
 
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