Yes, I have yet to see a MKIV TT (or big single), or ANY highly boosted GTE in ANY Toy/Lex with 4 narrow snow tires on it!!
Would like opinions on oils for my 515whp Supra
- Thread starter Ama0787
- Start date
- Status
Just for reference I once made it up a driveway in the snow with good year eagle gsd3 tires that a supercharged xterra could not probably driver related I got 98% up then last 2% ended up in 4-5th gear with people inserted in back seats for weight.
But yes as a rule car sees little use in winter since I bought a Subaru as a DD
Also looks like I am going with M1 15w50 for my main oil since kmart sold me so many bottles @4$
Any recomendarions on when this oil should not be used in cold? I know cuejet used in upstate NY winters which should be see more regular low temps and definaty lower extreme lows we rarely see below 20 degrees anymore
Anyone think I should stay away from the 15w50 until spring and go with M1 0w40 for winter fill? Or the M1TDT 5w40 for winter fill? Any opinions are apreciated.
I was also considering switching to the M1 0w40 in my suby year round. Replacing the RP 5w30 it has had since day one. I thought I would do on UOA before switching to the M1.
TIA,
Anthony
But yes as a rule car sees little use in winter since I bought a Subaru as a DD
Also looks like I am going with M1 15w50 for my main oil since kmart sold me so many bottles @4$
Any recomendarions on when this oil should not be used in cold? I know cuejet used in upstate NY winters which should be see more regular low temps and definaty lower extreme lows we rarely see below 20 degrees anymore
Anyone think I should stay away from the 15w50 until spring and go with M1 0w40 for winter fill? Or the M1TDT 5w40 for winter fill? Any opinions are apreciated.
I was also considering switching to the M1 0w40 in my suby year round. Replacing the RP 5w30 it has had since day one. I thought I would do on UOA before switching to the M1.
TIA,
Anthony
Last edited:
I use M1 HM 10/30 in my twin supra,very happy with it.
That's a tough choice deciding on M1 15W-50 for winter or not. Maybe someone will chime in with some experience.
I know one thing. I have used thick and thin oils, including various 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40, and thick 5W-40's. And nothing has made the car start as easily as it is right now with the 640 CCA Interstate Mega Tron Plus battery that I had put in last weekend!
Just waiting on some sub-freezing temps to test it in! I really believe we overlook battery performance here when thinking about the cold cranking ability of an oil.
My OEM 550 CCA battery was only 2 years old and was struggling to start in sub freezing temps. There is a uoa on here from JoeFromPA (lives in NE PA, IIRC) and he ran M1 15W-50 in his Legacy GT one summer. He kept it in towards Fall when it was getting cold and said he said he would feel comfortable running it down to around 20F. Found it here.
Also, have a look around Mobil1's web site for cold weather recommendations for the thicker oils.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Using_15W50_in_Winter.aspx
-Dennis
I know one thing. I have used thick and thin oils, including various 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40, and thick 5W-40's. And nothing has made the car start as easily as it is right now with the 640 CCA Interstate Mega Tron Plus battery that I had put in last weekend!
My OEM 550 CCA battery was only 2 years old and was struggling to start in sub freezing temps. There is a uoa on here from JoeFromPA (lives in NE PA, IIRC) and he ran M1 15W-50 in his Legacy GT one summer. He kept it in towards Fall when it was getting cold and said he said he would feel comfortable running it down to around 20F. Found it here.
Also, have a look around Mobil1's web site for cold weather recommendations for the thicker oils.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Using_15W50_in_Winter.aspx
-Dennis
Thanks for advice and links the supra has seen m1 10w30 since new with the most recent oil change going to RP 10w30 I probably shouldn't have switched but I got use t using it in my Subaru maybe I should go back to it do a UOA and then look at going to the M1 15w50 the recent kmart sale @ 4$ a bottle got me around 60 qrts of it so I hope it works.
I have a optima battery that has 800 cca but some how the optima batteries don't seem quite up to snuff at least not when they sit. My DD Subaru has a yellow top that has done we'll but the car is driven everyday but the red top in my supra blows the only positive is auto zone 3 year warranty so I get new batteries a lot I think Im on 4 or 5 now.
Blusubie,
How long have u been on the m1 0w40 that is what I was considering going with on my spec b which has the same basic motor you have.
Any UOA's done with it and is it the only weight you have used dice owning the car or did you just make the change recently?
TIA,
Anthony
I have a optima battery that has 800 cca but some how the optima batteries don't seem quite up to snuff at least not when they sit. My DD Subaru has a yellow top that has done we'll but the car is driven everyday but the red top in my supra blows the only positive is auto zone 3 year warranty so I get new batteries a lot I think Im on 4 or 5 now.
Blusubie,
How long have u been on the m1 0w40 that is what I was considering going with on my spec b which has the same basic motor you have.
Any UOA's done with it and is it the only weight you have used dice owning the car or did you just make the change recently?
TIA,
Anthony
Last edited:
IIRC, the Getrag transmission had some plastic part(s) in it that was incompatible with some gear oils (I believe Redline was one of them) and if you used the wrong oil, you had to completely disassemble the trannie to fix it.
Originally Posted By: Ama0787
Thanks for advice and links the supra has seen m1 10w30 since new with the most recent oil change going to RP 10w30 I probably shouldn't have switched but I got use t using it in my Subaru maybe I should go back to it do a UOA and then look at going to the M1 15w50 the recent kmart sale @ 4$ a bottle got me around 60 qrts of it so I hope it works.
I have a optima battery that has 800 cca but some how the optima batteries don't seem quite up to snuff at least not when they sit. My DD Subaru has a yellow top that has done we'll but the car is driven everyday but the red top in my supra blows the only positive is auto zone 3 year warranty so I get new batteries a lot I think Im on 4 or 5 now.
Blusubie,
How long have u been on the m1 0w40 that is what I was considering going with on my spec b which has the same basic motor you have.
Any UOA's done with it and is it the only weight you have used dice owning the car or did you just make the change recently?
TIA,
Anthony
60 quarts should last you for a while...
If you are even going with ridiculously short OCI's I can't imagine 60 quarts lasting less than a couple years? How much do you drive this car, anyway?
Who knows: there may just be some "better" NEW-IMPROVED! oils on the market in 2015, or so?
Cheers!
Thanks for advice and links the supra has seen m1 10w30 since new with the most recent oil change going to RP 10w30 I probably shouldn't have switched but I got use t using it in my Subaru maybe I should go back to it do a UOA and then look at going to the M1 15w50 the recent kmart sale @ 4$ a bottle got me around 60 qrts of it so I hope it works.
I have a optima battery that has 800 cca but some how the optima batteries don't seem quite up to snuff at least not when they sit. My DD Subaru has a yellow top that has done we'll but the car is driven everyday but the red top in my supra blows the only positive is auto zone 3 year warranty so I get new batteries a lot I think Im on 4 or 5 now.
Blusubie,
How long have u been on the m1 0w40 that is what I was considering going with on my spec b which has the same basic motor you have.
Any UOA's done with it and is it the only weight you have used dice owning the car or did you just make the change recently?
TIA,
Anthony
60 quarts should last you for a while...
If you are even going with ridiculously short OCI's I can't imagine 60 quarts lasting less than a couple years? How much do you drive this car, anyway?
Who knows: there may just be some "better" NEW-IMPROVED! oils on the market in 2015, or so?
Cheers!
Getrag has no plastic parts it uses a atf type fluid though. If you are interested there is a thread a can point you to is a v160 being rebuilt very good pics in it. The v160 holds well over 1k rwhp regularly and some of the Texas mile cars are closer to 2k rwhp Nd only change to tranny is the clutch they are quite impressive.
The supra is not driven much anymore I restored it after 10 years of a daily driving but after changing my injectors and getting a new tune and paint job I plan to use it again quite a bit when weather warms up.
Definitely is a lot of oil I was on a long trip home while the sale was going on and I got a little obsessed with finding. And clearing out kmarts along the way I think I did my 2 local stores and 4 on the trip home.
The supra is not driven much anymore I restored it after 10 years of a daily driving but after changing my injectors and getting a new tune and paint job I plan to use it again quite a bit when weather warms up.
Definitely is a lot of oil I was on a long trip home while the sale was going on and I got a little obsessed with finding. And clearing out kmarts along the way I think I did my 2 local stores and 4 on the trip home.
I thought that there was some bushing somewhere that would swell.
There has always beerumors to stick with the oem Toyota stuff I think mainly developed because it cost 60-70$ a qrt but there are many using rp synchro ax for years now and the guy that rebuilds most of them recommends amsoil ATF fluid with red letters not sure what that means exactly I have stuck with the Toyota stuff.
Originally Posted By: Ama0787
Blusubie,
How long have u been on the m1 0w40 that is what I was considering going with on my spec b which has the same basic motor you have.
Any UOA's done with it and is it the only weight you have used dice owning the car or did you just make the change recently?
I've been running the current fill of the recent API SN version for only a few hundred miles and
my last uoa on the SM version is here. I figured that I would give the SN version a shot since a lot of people speak so highly of the oil and to see if the TBN holds up any better than the 1.99 of the previous run. I also couldn't pass up the recent $30 sale that Autozone had on M1.
I've tried a lot of other oils, but only a couple of runs on oils with an HTHS lower than 3.5. I pretty much stick with Euro oils and have had some of my lowest uoa wear numbers with Motul. I usually have consumption when I'm on trips and if I have consumption with M1 0W-40 I may try TDT 5W-40 or the 10W-40 High Mileage. When I emailed Mobil1 to ask which oil to use (giving them the viscosities in the manual and my driving conditions) they recommended the 0W-40. Weekdays my daily trip is only 7 miles each way. I recently had the PCV valve replaced and had a valve cover gasket replaced (turbo side) so I'm hoping that helps with the consumption.
I only recently went Stage I AP so all of my previous uoa's posted here have been with no engine mods.
-Dennis
Blusubie,
How long have u been on the m1 0w40 that is what I was considering going with on my spec b which has the same basic motor you have.
Any UOA's done with it and is it the only weight you have used dice owning the car or did you just make the change recently?
I've been running the current fill of the recent API SN version for only a few hundred miles and
my last uoa on the SM version is here. I figured that I would give the SN version a shot since a lot of people speak so highly of the oil and to see if the TBN holds up any better than the 1.99 of the previous run. I also couldn't pass up the recent $30 sale that Autozone had on M1.
I've tried a lot of other oils, but only a couple of runs on oils with an HTHS lower than 3.5. I pretty much stick with Euro oils and have had some of my lowest uoa wear numbers with Motul. I usually have consumption when I'm on trips and if I have consumption with M1 0W-40 I may try TDT 5W-40 or the 10W-40 High Mileage. When I emailed Mobil1 to ask which oil to use (giving them the viscosities in the manual and my driving conditions) they recommended the 0W-40. Weekdays my daily trip is only 7 miles each way. I recently had the PCV valve replaced and had a valve cover gasket replaced (turbo side) so I'm hoping that helps with the consumption.
I only recently went Stage I AP so all of my previous uoa's posted here have been with no engine mods.
-Dennis
I've always heard lots of talk about consumption but my spec b has 107k on it put everyone of those miles on it and it has never had any oil consumption.
I assume that is a good thing but with every other suby owner noting consumption it makes me feel something is different with mine.
There is a guy on the legacy forums using amsoil 0w30 he has over 175k miles is still on stock turbo and block so I think the 0 weight must be a good fit. He has had a dual filter remote bypass system from amsoil on for some of. That life I really have meant to look into that system for both of my cars but have never pulled the trigger.
Thanks for the info about your car please post about your next UOA. I sent away for my. First uoa kit so I will post results to bad I didn't do it sooner I never knew it was so easy and always thought the guys that were doing it in the past either worked or had freinds working in labs.
I assume that is a good thing but with every other suby owner noting consumption it makes me feel something is different with mine.
There is a guy on the legacy forums using amsoil 0w30 he has over 175k miles is still on stock turbo and block so I think the 0 weight must be a good fit. He has had a dual filter remote bypass system from amsoil on for some of. That life I really have meant to look into that system for both of my cars but have never pulled the trigger.
Thanks for the info about your car please post about your next UOA. I sent away for my. First uoa kit so I will post results to bad I didn't do it sooner I never knew it was so easy and always thought the guys that were doing it in the past either worked or had freinds working in labs.
Did you break yours in by the book? I did and feel that maybe it was a bit too easy. The two uoa's to the right in my link above were on Amsoil 0W-30 (SSO). There was a uoa gap between M1 and SSO because I blew a turbo. Before the SSO run I had to have the turbo replaced due to oil geting past the seals. So I'm on OEM turbo #3!
-Dennis
-Dennis
I can not believe you are on #3 I hope they were replaced under warranty. Is this your first turbo car? Have you always warmed up the fluids properly before driving hard or moderately loading (boosting) the motor?
I think my break in was below 4 k for 1000miles maybe I remember looking for a break in procedure in the book and the was minimal info there I also looked on forums.. I have used rp 5w30 since day one in it and my turbo works as good today as ever. I have been good as far as no ht shut downs and always waiting for the temps to be up before running it hard at all. I think the only thing that is not good as day 1with the car is the clutch. It has slipped a few times and I am sure wouldn't hold up to a strong launch.. When the car was new I went around launching it quite a bit and once the clutch slipped I stopped I thought I would lose it quick after that buy I guess where these are low powered cars it can hold bc I have seen at least 80k more miles since the first slip and I don't really ever have slips under any driving but I assume if it were being driven hard it may not be transmitting all power but I am easy on it anymore. Particularly since my supra is back on the road and reminded me what power truly feels like.
Not trying to put down the suby bc it has replaced my supra as a DD and I never thought any car could and now I prefer it and am use to the comforts. I also took the supra a little farther than most street cars should go. I might soften the suspension up so it gets used more I thought I was going to track it much more than I have so it doesn't really make sense o be set up for road racing.
I think my break in was below 4 k for 1000miles maybe I remember looking for a break in procedure in the book and the was minimal info there I also looked on forums.. I have used rp 5w30 since day one in it and my turbo works as good today as ever. I have been good as far as no ht shut downs and always waiting for the temps to be up before running it hard at all. I think the only thing that is not good as day 1with the car is the clutch. It has slipped a few times and I am sure wouldn't hold up to a strong launch.. When the car was new I went around launching it quite a bit and once the clutch slipped I stopped I thought I would lose it quick after that buy I guess where these are low powered cars it can hold bc I have seen at least 80k more miles since the first slip and I don't really ever have slips under any driving but I assume if it were being driven hard it may not be transmitting all power but I am easy on it anymore. Particularly since my supra is back on the road and reminded me what power truly feels like.
Not trying to put down the suby bc it has replaced my supra as a DD and I never thought any car could and now I prefer it and am use to the comforts. I also took the supra a little farther than most street cars should go. I might soften the suspension up so it gets used more I thought I was going to track it much more than I have so it doesn't really make sense o be set up for road racing.
Last edited:
My first turbo car was an '03 WRX wagon and it was stolen after about a year. I always do a cool down, put in the past I may have put my foot into it a bit early. I was also doing 7-8k mile OCI's because my uoa's looked good. My first turbo replacement was covered under warranty but the second one wasn't. I should have made a case with SoA since they probably would've helped out.
I seem to recall some speculation on IWSTI or legacygt.com about a second blown turbo being related to the replacement of the first one. I forget the details. I saw the Subieyota BRZ last weekend in Philly. I want a larger AWD version!
-Dennis
I seem to recall some speculation on IWSTI or legacygt.com about a second blown turbo being related to the replacement of the first one. I forget the details. I saw the Subieyota BRZ last weekend in Philly. I want a larger AWD version!
-Dennis
Bringing thread back from dead since the summer has came and the winter never arrived. I did buy a bunch of M1 15w50 but I still have not committed to using it as I can exchange it for any readily available oil at the local auto shops.
I think the thread got to focused on the cold weather use. The car is only started in winter to keep the car from suffering from the effects of sitting still.
Now that summer is here I am still kind of leaning toward using a 0 or 5w30 or 40. What do you guys think?
Car will be driven hard most of the time when it is driven it will hopefully see some track use but it would be on street tires so it wont be too hard on the cars systems as a whole but will be driven as hard as the street tires will allow. Street driving is pretty hard all things considered too but of course it is driven normally when in town and in traffic so what do you guys think? I am leaning at either M1 0w40 or 5w40TDT But I would consider any brands and most weights.
I recently bought a 5 gal pail of RP HPS 5w30 and the older man who retired and became a distributor for RP could not say enough about the brand as a whole. The HPS oil is apparently the pre-SN oil he says it is a little better my guess is it is the old oil unchanged basically still has the additives GM needed removed so there sensors would not get damaged.
Anyway sorry for getting off topic and please let me know what you guys think based oil the climate changes and hopefully I can talk about and understand the topic a little better now than when I first posted as I have spent some time researching BITOG and am amazed at the amount of info there is to learn about oil.
So in summary I need a summer oil for a 515 rwhp 442rwtq high mileage supra has seen M1 10w30 for all of its life(I have all records)except 1 fill which is the current fill it has RP 10w30 I am 2nd owner and have owned for 15 years and put all but the first 16k miles on it most of them have been extremely hard compared to what most sports cars see Lately I am easier on it but still plan to drive it hard until it pops then it will be rebuilt and driven hard again. It runs 18psi on a small fast spooling turbo has a mild cam and light/strong springs and retainers. I shift from 7-8300 rpm depending on situation the turbo is water and oil cooled.
TIA,
Anthony
P.S. Does anyone think oil thickness effects crankcase ventilation?
I think the thread got to focused on the cold weather use. The car is only started in winter to keep the car from suffering from the effects of sitting still.
Now that summer is here I am still kind of leaning toward using a 0 or 5w30 or 40. What do you guys think?
Car will be driven hard most of the time when it is driven it will hopefully see some track use but it would be on street tires so it wont be too hard on the cars systems as a whole but will be driven as hard as the street tires will allow. Street driving is pretty hard all things considered too but of course it is driven normally when in town and in traffic so what do you guys think? I am leaning at either M1 0w40 or 5w40TDT But I would consider any brands and most weights.
I recently bought a 5 gal pail of RP HPS 5w30 and the older man who retired and became a distributor for RP could not say enough about the brand as a whole. The HPS oil is apparently the pre-SN oil he says it is a little better my guess is it is the old oil unchanged basically still has the additives GM needed removed so there sensors would not get damaged.
Anyway sorry for getting off topic and please let me know what you guys think based oil the climate changes and hopefully I can talk about and understand the topic a little better now than when I first posted as I have spent some time researching BITOG and am amazed at the amount of info there is to learn about oil.
So in summary I need a summer oil for a 515 rwhp 442rwtq high mileage supra has seen M1 10w30 for all of its life(I have all records)except 1 fill which is the current fill it has RP 10w30 I am 2nd owner and have owned for 15 years and put all but the first 16k miles on it most of them have been extremely hard compared to what most sports cars see Lately I am easier on it but still plan to drive it hard until it pops then it will be rebuilt and driven hard again. It runs 18psi on a small fast spooling turbo has a mild cam and light/strong springs and retainers. I shift from 7-8300 rpm depending on situation the turbo is water and oil cooled.
TIA,
Anthony
P.S. Does anyone think oil thickness effects crankcase ventilation?
You wanted to avoid the NOT on the shelf, 'boutique' oils, correct?? (I was going to suggest Motul 300V 5W-40, exorbitant as it is.)
If so, then you probably cannot go wrong with the M1 0W-40.
If so, then you probably cannot go wrong with the M1 0W-40.
No for the supra I would go with any oil. I think I confused this thread by mentioning I would possibly use the oil in both cars I said that because I was thinking I might go with a 0w40 which could go in either but I would use any oil in the supra and if it happens to be readily available and work for both great if not Ill just go with a more conventional oil in the suby and use whatever seems best in the supra
Also considering using the Amsoil dual filter set up in both cars one is permanetly filtering and then a lower micron filter that has bypass that or with the Canton filters
Ill read up on the motul 300v 5w40
P.S. editing features suck on here
Ill read up on the motul 300v 5w40
P.S. editing features suck on here
Last edited:
- Status
