Wood Colored/Textured Tile

UncleDave

$100 Site Donor 2024
Joined
Jun 2, 2014
Messages
10,148
Location
Ca.
Love the look of a wood floor.

Wood floors and bathrooms dont go together super well - introduce -wood colored tile.

I'd have redone the whole bathroom but after redoing three of them and two kitchens I wanted to be done with remodeling.

When I say "I" my role is helping to pick out, paying for products, picking up and moving them to and from the worksite -
Mrs Uncle Dave- designs, cuts, lays, and grouts. My tile work is excrement.

Used the Schluter (ditro?) water barrier - superb but it takes tons of thinset to fill up its little cubes.

IMG_3083.jpeg
IMG_3082.jpeg
 
I learned a few things from an expert installer when they did my whole house. Level from tile to tile is very important, use a small grout line, 1/16" if you can. Match the color of the grout as close as possible to the color of the tile, makes it look more uniform. ALWAYS allow your grout mixture to slake, it takes about 20 minutes before spreading.
Here is a picture of my kitchen floor. In this case, he used a 4" stagger pattern, it requires more cutting, but it avoids that "stair step effect" of the grout lines and you get a much more professional result. You end up with one (24") tile, short by 4", the next one is 8" short, etc. Make it random. You'll get the idea.

Floor.jpg
 
Last edited:
Love the look of a wood floor.

Wood floors and bathrooms dont go together super well - introduce -wood colored tile.

I'd have redone the whole bathroom but after redoing three of them and two kitchens I wanted to be done with remodeling.

When I say "I" my role is helping to pick out, paying for products, picking up and moving them to and from the worksite -
Mrs Uncle Dave- designs, cuts, lays, and grouts. My tile work is excrement.

Used the Schluter (ditro?) water barrier - superb but it takes tons of thinset to fill up its little cubes.

View attachment 110362View attachment 110363
Thats what i want in my bathroom.I love how it looks.Nice job
 
So compared to a waterproof (24 hour minimum) luxury vinyl plank that's quality, what's the advantage of going with tile? I suppose tile is truly waterproof for an indefinite amount of time, and maybe slightly more durable? Just thinking out loud for whenever I get to do this down the road.

I also think about how next time the reno is needed once again a floating lvp floor is a cakewalk to pull up as opposed to tile.
 
The vinyl plank flooring [lvp] has become my favorite . Yeah I am low end !!
Yep, they have come out with some floating floors that are waterproof and don't expand much. Good inexpensive choice.
Had a bathroom once that had 1/4" wood over subfloor. Needless to say, that didn't hang around for too long!
 
So compared to a waterproof (24 hour minimum) luxury vinyl plank that's quality, what's the advantage of going with tile? I suppose tile is truly waterproof for an indefinite amount of time, and maybe slightly more durable? Just thinking out loud for whenever I get to do this down the road.

I also think about how next time the reno is needed once again a floating lvp floor is a cakewalk to pull up as opposed to tile.
That new stuff is really good. And the ceramic tile needs a subfloor that flexes VERY little, like, best over concrete. And yes, the ceramiic tile is extremely durable, which can be both a blessing and a drawback. If you ever want to change the look, it's gonna be expensive with tile.
 
I learned a few things from an expert installer when they did my whole house. Level from tile to tile is very important, use a small grout line, 1/16" if you can. Match the color of the grout as close as possible to the color of the tile, makes it look more uniform. ALWAYS allow your grout mixture to slake, it takes about 20 minutes before spreading.
Here is a picture of my kitchen floor. In this case, he used a 4" stagger pattern, it requires more cutting, but it avoids that "stair step effect" of the grout lines and you get a much more professional result. You end up with one (24") tile, short by 4", the next one is 8" short, etc. Make it random. You'll get the idea.

View attachment 110375

I like VP as well - in certain places.

I have an upper floor filled with it (aside from the bathroom), a guest bedroom, and an office.

I do not prefer it for living rooms, kitchens or bathrooms though.

Here's VP in the back office.

IMG_0480.jpeg
 
One more thing. I see a lot of blue tape in these pictures. A floating floor must not be tight at the edges. A 1/2" gap, not tightly glued down is usually recommended. Transitions can be a problem, but watch for expansion issues.
 
Nobody here is a tradesman so I wouldnt doubt there are a litany of things we dont do right.

The blue tape seems to work well to set the transition pieces especially while you are going over them again and again.
 
Grout in, tile job done - toilet mount time....
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3087.jpeg
    IMG_3087.jpeg
    138.2 KB · Views: 4
  • IMG_3086.jpeg
    IMG_3086.jpeg
    166.4 KB · Views: 4
I'm in the business.
LVP floating floor needs at least a 1/4 gap from the walls to move.
When installing base over it dont push the base down tight,just rest it on the floor,dont pinch the floor it needs to move.
Install LVP around cabinets and islands,dont put them on top of the LVP if its new construction or a remodel.
And if you can afford it get the 12MM(1/2 ") it will walk the best and cover any defects in the original floor.
 
Some of these new tiles are really nice. You can get the stone look for a backsplash and easy to wipe down as well. Tile choice has come a long ways from 20 years ago.

Looks great.
 
Back
Top