Will switching from synthetic oil back to conventional oil hurt roller cam set up?

[Rob Taggs]

I have a 2003 Pontiac Aztec with a 3.4 Liter engine. It has a roller cam along with roller rockers. Will switching from Mobil 1 which I presently use in it to say Mobil Drive Clean or Dino Havoline hurt the engine or seals? Cost is my problem. My wife about falls over when I mention that the Aztec is due for an oil change and I tell her it will be around $30.00 for the oil and filter. I worry about Dino Oils being able to lubricate such areas as lifter rollers and rockers since the tolerances are so close. Do I have reason to be worried or not? Please give me your feedback it will be appreciated.

 

[Ken42]

Had a friend with a 90 Mustang with the 5.0L and he installed roller cam and rockers. Ran dino all the way and track every weekend and almost every waking hour. Last I saw him he had 130,000 miles on the car with the body falling apart but the engine ran great. So no problems.

You did not say how long you run your OCI but would not a longer run justify the cost? of the Synthetic?

Ken

 

[Ironhorseman]

quote:

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Yikes. This is like my friend who had to give up his amateur radio plates because his wife thought they looked dorky.

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Meow! Crack!!!

 

[ruking77]

First of all the conventional oil will work just fine!! I am guessing you are a DIY'er? Even if you get it done at a vendor or dealer if you change conventional oil at 3/5k miles it will cost you more than longer OCI's that synthetic oils can usually handle.

You don't give your OCI's, but I have been doing 15,000 mile (OCI's) oil change intervals in different applications for over 660,000 miles with NO problems or concerns with Mobil One 5w30. The applications include 5 Toyota Landcruisers,(one sold with 250,000 miles, 120,000, 95,000 on down) Corvette Z06 (66,000 miles), VW Jetta TDI (Delvac One 5w40, aka Mobil One Truck and Suv)Once the factory fill is changed as per the warranty and Honda requirements, I will be using Mobil One 0w20 synthetic for a min of 10,000 miles, oci's, during the short warranty period 36,000 miles.

[ November 15, 2004, 01:42 PM: Message edited by: ruking77 ]

 

[TC]

If your manual doesn't mandate synthetic oil, it's helpful (as with any engine), but certainly not required. You'll do just fine with a name brand dino. Also, there's no significance to switching back-and-forth between syn and conventional, if desired. No harm to seals or valvetrain whatsoever, although syn's added cleaning/solvency can remove seal deposits on older dirty engines, sometimes inadverdently creating minor leaks in the process.
http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/carcare/whattoknow.asp

 

[haley10]

She may be onto something without knowing the technical points. In the interest of marital bliss and economics you might consider it.

Running a synthetic will not insure less engine wear or necessarily a longer life. This is not a high performance engine where GM requires a synthetic.

This might be a case where synthetic is not economically justified.

 

[Ugly3]

Fear not, dino of the correct viscosity will be fine.

 

[dB]

Yikes. This is like my friend who had to give up his amateur radio plates because his wife thought they looked dorky. I know I have to compromise here and there and don't get stuff I'd like to have, but my wife doesn't get on my case for what oil I use. Sorry to rant, but sometimes stuff like this just irritates me.

(Of course, I'll be going back to dino in my old Audi, since it burns oil and it gets a little expensive dumping expensive Mobil 1 in there every few thousand miles. So I guess I shouldn't talk.