Will Need a Good Synthetic Oil After Break-in, How to Choose for Turbo Vehicle ?

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How would you guys go about choosing a synthetic oil for a turbocharged car ?. I think a synthetic is a must in turbo engines, the owner's manual strongly recommends it as well. I'm waiting to pass the 2000 mile mark before switching to synthetic as per Redline's (Dave) recommendation.

Is flash point a good indicator of an oil's resistance to heat ?, the one issue with turbo's is their heat and ability to coke oil.

Should I look for an oil with high flash point and group 4/5 composition ?. The owner's manual recommends Mobil1 5w-30 or 10w-30. I guess 0w-30 is acceptable too.

Any opinions on a good oil to start with in those weights ?. Has any particular oil proven to work better in turbocharged environments ? My car is only used for daily driving the majority of th time. I may take it to a track once or twice a year, but not much.

thanks for any info.

Joey
 
I would suggest either Redline or Motul. Mobil 1 would be down my list, although the 10w-30 should be fairly shear stable. Depending how you drive & tempatures where you are I would either go for a high 30 or a 40 weight.

I personally use the Motul 300v 5w-30 (high 30 weight). I changed into the synth after 1,000km. This is in a Nissan 200sx S15 turbo. My son also has a Nissan turbo with higher boost (1.3bar) and other mods. He is also using the 5w-30, although he did use the 10w-40 previously. Changes every 4-5,000km.

I'm sure you will get other opinions as well.
 
Not sure how may miles you have done, but some would probably suggest an oil change at the 600-1,000 mile mark as well using same oil as factory.
 
Royal Purple or Amsoil 10/30 or 10/40. Depending on how hot it is where you are. I have used both. I LOVE the Royal Purple so far. Great Fuel Milage.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Idrinkmotoroil:
How would you guys go about choosing a synthetic oil for a turbocharged car ?. I think a synthetic is a must in turbo engines, the -*-*-*
Any opinions on a good oil to start with in those weights ?. -*-*-*


We will get a number of opinions here I'm sure. I would suggest to look for one thing, this is MY Opinion of ONE thing among others, that I don't thing has been talked about here or least very much... I don't recall anyone ever talking about FOAM TENDENCY (ASTM D-892). Look for one with low numbers... IMO the reason why you need this in addition to all the other needs, is because of the harsh environment, and as we all know, foam makes heat and that's the last thing we need here... Also foam CAN create a THIN FILM of oil and in fact create a BOUNDRY situation causing metal to metal contact or a high probability... look into this NEGLECTED (IMHO) area along with the vast info found here
 
quote:

Originally posted by Robbie Alexander:

quote:

Originally posted by Idrinkmotoroil:
How would you guys go about choosing a synthetic oil for a turbocharged car ?. I think a synthetic is a must in turbo engines, the -*-*-*
Any opinions on a good oil to start with in those weights ?. -*-*-*


We will get a number of opinions here I'm sure. I would suggest to look for one thing, this is MY Opinion of ONE thing among others, that I don't thing has been talked about here or least very much... I don't recall anyone ever talking about FOAM TENDENCY (ASTM D-892). Look for one with low numbers... IMO the reason why you need this in addition to all the other needs, is because of the harsh environment, and as we all know, foam makes heat and that's the last thing we need here... Also foam CAN create a THIN FILM of oil and in fact create a BOUNDRY situation causing metal to metal contact or a high probability... look into this NEGLECTED (IMHO) area along with the vast info found here


Good point, but not that much info from manufacturers about foaming tendency. Redline is the only one I know who goes out of their way to discuss that subject w.r.t. their oils. Might be even more important to me because my engine has balance shafts and no baffling on the oil pan.

Joey
 
Amsoil,Redline,Motul and Delvac 1 would be my choices. I think that the most important thing is picking the highest viscosity you can run for the ambient temps. I think the cleanliness of an oil is very important in addition to high flash point. If the oil is volitile or is prone to cokeing or gives off alot of ash it is not going to make you turbo charger or valvetrain happy.

Redline, Pentosin and Delvac have some very promesing 5W40 weighs that offer a lot of comprimise and still have good HT/HS numbers and are not loaded with VII's!

P.S. Mobil1 will work but their lighter stuff is questionable in a turbo application. I have seen the 15W50 survive nicely but it is a bit too cold in Canada this time of year for M1 15W50.
 
Thanks JB, sound like good choices to me. Funny thing about my engine is that the owner's manual recommended 10w-30 oil as the preferred weight. After I bought the car I got an addendum given to me from Chrysler stating that 5w-30 is the recommended preferred oil weight because the emissions and fuel mileage testing numbers were based on 5w-30 oil, thus they had to recommend that weight of oil to comply with government regulations. kinda tells me that a thicker weight is preferred though other factors come into play with recommended weights.

Joey
 
quote:

Chrysler stating that 5w-30 is the recommended preferred oil weight because the emissions and fuel mileage testing numbers were based on 5w-30 oil, thus they had to recommend that weight of oil to comply with government regulations

Interesting to finally see that in print!

I assume you might want otc oil unless stated otherwise. My friend used Mobil 1 5w-30 for the last 5 years in her turbo Audi, changed only once a year. No warm-up or cool-down, driven pretty hard in a heavy car. The valve cover and dipstick are completely clean and she burns ZERO oil. Based on that, I would say use M1 0w-40 and stick with it.
One oil I can think of, specificly made for turbo applications is Rotella "T" Synth 5w-40, but EP and FM levels might be too high for a Japanese cat.
I imagine the new 5w-40 Mobil 1 SUV would be ideal. Esters replacing EP and FM seems to be the newer formulation, possibly ideal for your turbo car too.
Good luck with whatever you choose, I would not wait too long with dino for break-in, a short cycle of thin M1 5w-30 might be ideal now, just after a few hard runs to seat the rings.
grin.gif
 
thanks guys, my car is the 04 Dodge SRT-4 . The turbo is water cooled, oil is used for lubrication of the turbo bearings I believe.

good info, thanks again.

Joey
 
quote:

Originally posted by Idrinkmotoroil:
-*-*-*QUOTE]Good point, but not that much info from manufacturers about foaming tendency. Redline is the only one I know who goes out of their way to discuss that subject w.r.t. their oils. Might be even more important to me because my engine has balance shafts and no baffling on the oil pan.

Joey


Try calling their 800 number tech line, ask to speak with a tech guy and tell them what you want and which one of their oils can provide. You bay get the shaft and you may be surprised.
 
If you are going to run a 30wt. I have to recomend Redlines 10W30 it is the thickest 10W30 I am aware of. THeir 5W30 will not shear down too much and it does not thicken up with oxidation like most light oils in a turbo application.

In most turbo's most 30 weights will shear quickly (prior) to 1500 miles and will then begin to thicken up until they shoot passed 40wt or 50wt. Redline will not do this!

I would never recomend a 5W30 especialy in a turbo application but I am not an expert on oil! I also do not have any recent turbo aplication specific UOA to support my point. I will say that Pablo has extensive data from his own fleet of turbo charged cars and is in a an excellent postion to answere questions based on viscosity and turbo applications! Good Luck with the new toy!!!
 
Joe

I have a lot of experience with Dodge turbos, currently own 5. I can tell you that I have used the Amsoil 10w-30 and now the 0W-30. I use their spin on filters and bypass.

my 86 Turbo Z CS has used Amsoil since break in and 2 year 20,000-30000 mile drain intervals. The car was my brothers who purchased new in 86. I just had a freind convert it to Turbo 2 with +20 injectors, GLHS Stage 2 Electronics, custom cal with 20 PSI boost, new Garret Turbo with 3" swing valve, 3" SS Exhaust. we aslo put in a stronger Getrag 555,Newer style K-frame, RT Disc/PP, Bilstein Struts/KYB shocks, 11.5" SHelby Brakes, EGT guage etc

WHen we opened up the engine it was the cleanest looking 2.2 he had scene with 115K miles on it. We simply put new seals/gaskets on it, and reassmbled. Here is the link to its build up.

http://www.hometown.aol.com/mopartek/mike_sweetland.html

I also have 3 others and use the AMsoil in those. All have high miles with my Shadow at 185K.
You wont go wrong running any of the synthetics, I use the Amsoil and like the extended drains, even with the turbo.

Mike

86 Turbo Z CS
89 Shadow ES Turbo
89 Spirit Turbo
90 Daytona ES Turbo
90 Daytona Shelby VNT Turbo
00 Durango SLT + 5.9
02 Grand Cherokee 4.7
 
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