Will Mobil & SOPUS Develop R&P Equivalent ?

Some credit to Amsoil for not bad mouthing Valvoline. I’m not sure if Amsoil has tested their oils on cleaning known dirty pistons(you’d think they’d say so). Obviously it keeps pistons extremely clean, well beyond industry standards.

It would be very hard/expensive for them to do it. They would have to buy or blend a low quality oil, run it X number of miles and tear it down to hopefully show that.

Or find an otherwise dirty engine and tear it down to confirm it. Then also confirm the life of that vehicle without mechanical issues, etc.

Then put it all back together and run their oil. And show that it “cleaned” it. You’re talking tens of thousands of dollars for all these tear downs and re assembly, then the testing and the rest.

It’s part of the reason I don’t really “buy” the marketing material put out. As well there’s no corroborating evidence that if you run a major brand full synthetic, that your engine will be varnished like that.

Add in the people who are purchasing amsoil or would purchase amsoil, aren’t the ones going and getting no name brand oils at quicklubes or such. Going from a 19.99 oil change special at lubesRus to amsoil DIY is a big change.

Which goes into my theory this is just a GF7 byproduct. Using a better oil, with a complete additive package will slowly clean things if they happen to be dirty.

As for what’s the secret ingredient? I don’t think there really is one. I’m not privy to the chemical make up of each additive package. As that’s highly confidential information. Even if I was, I couldn’t share it without a breech of trust. But the public data from the additive makers, have shown increased sludge and varnish protection as well as reduction. That’s part of GF7 development.
 
Some credit to Amsoil for not bad mouthing Valvoline. I’m not sure if Amsoil has tested their oils on cleaning known dirty pistons(you’d think they’d say so). Obviously it keeps pistons extremely clean, well beyond industry standards.
You're right. It would be expensive too.
 
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This is from MOBIL's own website for triple action
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They just said prevents build up. but nothing about removing pre existing build up.

On the Canadian Mobil 1 website it does say that M1 EP HM can remove existing build up. Here’s a screenshot of it:

IMG_8273.webp
 
The fact that Mobil claims that it can clean up the sludge in just one oil change also might lead some to believe it’s an even more aggressive cleaner compared to VRP which says it takes 4 or more intervals to do it’s work.
 
Lots of sludge removal claims by various oil makers. What everyone is looking for in particular is piston deposit removal because some of these sludge removal oils don’t keep low tension rings from sticking.
 
The fact that Mobil claims that it can clean up the sludge in just one oil change also might lead some to believe it’s an even more aggressive cleaner compared to VRP which says it takes 4 or more intervals to do it’s work.
Well, let's say there's 500g of sludge in the engine. If their oil reduces even just 1g, they can still claim it "removes sludge/cleans up sludge" because it's a dubious claim at best.
 
Lots of sludge removal claims by various oil makers. What everyone is looking for in particular is piston deposit removal because some of these sludge removal oils don’t keep low tension rings from sticking.
Maybe the best plan of action for older engines is to run a few intervals with VRP and then a few intervals with M1 EP HM (or any of the other oils that claim to remove sludge)
 
Sludge deposits are entirely different than piston deposits.

https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en/blog/product/restore-protect-motor-oil-explained/

"No matter the age of the vehicle, engine-killing deposits are building up on the pistons, and they’re not visible unless you take apart the engine. Valvoline innovated a way to reverse them. Valvoline Restore & Protect is first and only motor oil that returns pistons to factory clean. In fact, it removes up to 100% of deposits when used as directed for four or more consecutive oil changes at standard maintenance intervals, based on adapted sequence IIIH testing."
 
Maybe the best plan of action for older engines is to run a few intervals with VRP and then a few intervals with M1 EP HM (or any of the other oils that claim to remove sludge)
I do believe some oils can keep pistons clean enough to never have a problem. Even when those same oils may not be able to actively clean dirty pistons caused by another oil. The problem is trying to figure out which one and sticking with it for the life of the vehicle. If I had to guess maybe HPL, Amsoil SS, M1 EP, M1 ESP?
 
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Yeah this has been repeated to death - preventing deposits from forming is what oils do. The better the oil the better it should keep deposits at bay. That's why they have the IIIH test and GM Turbo test etc. Those tests evaluate an oils ability to RESIST deposit formation. Cleaning existing deposits is not easy and as Dr. Warholic has said, the type of deposits vary greatly within an engine.
 
Another consideration, some engines are more prone to sticking low tension rings than others. My daughters 2016 Acura RDX can go 10k miles on any oil and not burn a drop with 120k miles on the clock. My 2018 Outback started burning oil after 60k with some of the best oils available at Walmart.
 
Sludge deposits are entirely different than piston deposits
True, but some people are wondering if VRP can actually clean sludge effectively or if it’s just mainly about piston deposits.

That’s why I’m considering using VRP for a few more intervals and then switching to M1 EP HM for it’s supposed sludge cleaning ability.
 
True, but some people are wondering if VRP can actually clean sludge effectively or if it’s just mainly about piston deposits.

That’s why I’m considering using VRP for a few more intervals and then switching to M1 EP HM for it’s supposed sludge cleaning ability.
Honestly if you don’t have oil consumption I’d go right to M1 EP HM. IMO besides the piston cleaning claim R&P is your basic api “full synthetic”. Average Noack, average volatility, average pour point….no indication of high quality base stocks.

In fact after my 4th R&P oci in my Outback M1 EP HM is one oil I’m considering.
 
Honestly if you don’t have oil consumption I’d go right to M1 EP HM. IMO besides the piston cleaning claim R&P is your basic api “full synthetic”. Average Noack, average volatility, average pour point….no indication of high quality base stocks.

In fact after my 4th R&P oci in my Outback M1 EP HM is one oil I’m considering.
The Civic has never had any serious consumption (around 1/2 qt every 6000 miles) but I still got caught up in the VRP wave and thought it was a good idea to give it a try. And since I have started with it I figured I might as well continue, at least for a little while.
 
The Civic has never had any serious consumption (around 1/2 qt every 6000 miles) but I still got caught up in the VRP wave and thought it was a good idea to give it a try. And since I have started with it I figured I might as well continue, at least for a little while.
Sounds like a healthy engine!! It is fun trying out new oils!
 
Sounds like a healthy engine!! It is fun trying out new oils!
The engine runs incredibly well for 161,000 miles and it still averages about 50 MPG overall during the warmer months. Since I got the car I have tried many different oils, I do find it fun trying different things. With the Corvette I have stuck with ESP 5w30 and will likely continue with it as long as it’s available.
 
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