Will diesel oil offer BETTER protection on GDI engine?

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Jan 22, 2008
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Have a 2016 Kia Sorento 2.0T. Engine was replaced at 91,000 miles under warranty due to spun rod bearings. Changed the oil every 5000 miles. There are known issues on these engines and there’s a lifetime warranty. With my new engine and knowing the amount of soot and fuel dilution common with GDI engine‘s that turn the oil black within a few hundred miles, would a diesel spec engine oil provide better protection? TIA
 
Have a 2016 Kia Sorento 2.0T. Engine was replaced at 91,000 miles under warranty due to spun rod bearings. Changed the oil every 5000 miles. There are known issues on these engines and there’s a lifetime warranty. With my new engine and knowing the amount of soot and fuel dilution common with GDI engine‘s that turn the oil black within a few hundred miles, would a diesel spec engine oil provide better protection? TIA
Selling your Sorento and going for a different brand would give you better protection.
Hyundai/Kia GDI engines are simply junk and whatever you use isn't deterring the excessive fuel dilution.
 
Have a 2016 Kia Sorento 2.0T. Engine was replaced at 91,000 miles under warranty due to spun rod bearings. Changed the oil every 5000 miles. There are known issues on these engines and there’s a lifetime warranty. With my new engine and knowing the amount of soot and fuel dilution common with GDI engine‘s that turn the oil black within a few hundred miles, would a diesel spec engine oil provide better protection? TIA
Like an HDEO in 15W40 - they suspend well - but wut-ya-hunting ?
A Dexos 2 like Mobil 1 ESP in 5W30 would give you a higher HTHS, advanced deposit control and outstanding base stock … better for temps …
 
Back when I first joined BITOG, a dual rated HDEO - heavy duty engine oil rated for both diesel trucks and gas cars, were sort of the poor man's synthetic. Considered much stronger in both viscosity and additives than your standard ILSAC PCMO.

With many HDEOs no longer being dual rated, and the rise of LSPI as an issue for Turbo-DI cars, this seems to be done less and less. I still think it's a good idea, but maybe there are other ways forward.

How about PP-Euro with API SP for LSPI, but it's also Euro A3/B4 and carries MB 229.5 and Porsche A40?
 
Back when I first joined BITOG, a dual rated HDEO - heavy duty engine oil rated for both diesel trucks and gas cars, were sort of the poor man's synthetic. Considered much stronger in both viscosity and additives than your standard ILSAC PCMO.

With many HDEOs no longer being dual rated, and the rise of LSPI as an issue for Turbo-DI cars, this seems to be done less and less. I still think it's a good idea, but maybe there are other ways forward.

How about PP-Euro with API SP for LSPI, but it's also Euro A3/B4 and carries MB 229.5 and Porsche A40?
Isn’t the high calcium in an A3/B4 bad for DI engines?
 
On this one I'd let the dealer change it. Then it becomes their baby if something in the engine lets go.
He shouldn’t have to do this if he saves his documentation.

OP, who changed the oil for the first 91k? 5k with any plain Jane synthetic 5/10w30 should be more than enough. This is a perfect application for Supertech IMO.
 
Isn’t the high calcium in an A3/B4 bad for DI engines?
Well PP-Euro is API SP, so it shouldn't be an issue. It has moved to a Ca and Mg detergent package. That's why I called that one out by name. Here is the VOA

The others, M1 & Edge, are still SN with a Ca only detergent package. I expect them to move on too at some stage. Not that years of Euro cars with DI engines have ever had an issue with them.
 
Well PP-Euro is API SP, so it shouldn't be an issue. It has moved to a Ca and Mg detergent package. That's why I called that one out by name. Here is the VOA

The others, M1 & Edge, are still SN with a Ca only detergent package. I expect them to move on too at some stage. Not that years of Euro cars with DI engines have ever had an issue with them.
Thanks. Your explanation makes sense. Shame on me, but I guess I didn’t know of any Euro DI cars that required an A3/B4.
 
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Thanks. Your explanation makes sense. Shame on me, but I guess I didn’t know of any Euro DI cars that required an A3/B4.
Well yeah, probably all C3 now days in Europe, but still many Euro car A3/B4 users in Australia and some on BITOG too.
 
I wouldn't use diesel spec oil on your car. I'm not saying don't use diesel oil because it can cause catalytic converter issues, but because it won't offer better protection. Just use quality synthetic gasoline engine oil, and use the recommended viscosity.

What I would do on your car is use regular quality gasoline engine oil like Mobil 1 EP, Pennzoil Platinum, RP HPS, and etc. And change the oil more often.

A lot of modern engines are Direct injected, Turbocharged, and small displacement. I don't care how "advanced" new oils are. I am never running the oil 10k miles like many of these manufacturers are recommending, because of fuel dilution issues and the heat from the turbos. 4k-5k mile oil change interval works well.

If you're worried about soot and fuel dilution, just change the oil more often than what the owners manual states, NOT increase the viscosity like a lot of people say. I personally would change the oil every 5k miles or less if you're a fanatic.

I would love to know how your bearings spun. How often were you changing the oil?
 
I wouldn't use diesel spec oil on your car. I'm not saying don't use diesel oil because it can cause catalytic converter issues, but because it won't offer better protection. Just use quality synthetic gasoline engine oil, and use the recommended viscosity.

What I would do on your car is use regular quality gasoline engine oil like Mobil 1 EP, Pennzoil Platinum, RP HPS, and etc. And change the oil more often.

A lot of modern engines are Direct injected, Turbocharged, and small displacement. I don't care how "advanced" new oils are. I am never running the oil 10k miles like many of these manufacturers are recommending, because of fuel dilution issues and the heat from the turbos. 4k-5k mile oil change interval works well.

If you're worried about soot and fuel dilution, just change the oil more often than what the owners manual states, NOT increase the viscosity like a lot of people say. I personally would change the oil every 5k miles or less if you're a fanatic.

I would love to know how your bearings spun. How often were you changing the oil?
We were the original owners of the car and had the oil changed at the dealer every 4000 to 5000 miles. Evidently this family of engines in Kia Sorrento‘s and Hyundais have a known manufacturing defect where debris was left in the engine from factory and that debris clogs oil passages and eventually overtime it catches up. It’s essentially a third car at the house now so I’m OK having a remanufactured engine and we likely won’t be putting too many miles on it but I’d like to squeeze another three or four years out of what’s otherwise been a generally reliable vehicle. As to what oil they were using at the dealer they say it was synthetic but you know how dealers are. They certainly did change it every 4-5k miles.
 
I'm impressed that they gave you a new engine at 91,000 miles. A friend's son is a tech at a Hyundai store and spends his days changing out failed engines so apparently it is pretty common. If I got that good a warranty protection I'd be faithful to the brand.
 
We use valvoline daily protection from valvoline instant oil change.

It is their conventional offering, I change at 3750 miles.


What I like about them, is they install a blue OE filter with a valvoline logo on it, and they usually have specials for $19.99 or $23.99.

You can't buy the oil for what they are charging, and they do a decent job.

This way you have a record of an oil change on your carfax, and you can get in and out in 20 minutes.
 
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