Will a Group III "synthetic" allow Break In?

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3,346
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Clarksville, Tennessee
Just wondering. I have been debating about the break in issue, because my Triumph uses a special break-in oil for the the first 500 miles. I want to go a little longer but also don't want to sacrifice protection. So would a group III based synthetic allow the engine to continue to break-in? I'm specifically thinking of the Shell Rotella 5w40.
 

msparks

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3,346
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Clarksville, Tennessee
quote:
Originally posted by Al: If you plan on going longer with the "break-in oil" what's the issue? Is this a rebuilt engine??
The break in oil is only available with a new bike, I want to run a little longer with a fesh oil change before I go full synthetic. But on the other hand I still want some good protection. Maybe I should not worry about it, but I feel if you don't get a good break in, it will use oil forever.
 

Al

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19,246
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Elizabethtown, Pa
I get it-you want to put the Rotella in before going to the PAO. I am still leary about the benefits of the greakin oil period. But perhaps Triumph requires it due to bore /ring material/finish. I would think if you rwent the recommended distance you could switch to the PAO. I have really become more convinced (not saying I am right) that there is not a whole lot of difference betweeen the PAO and Group III other than maybe better low temp with PAO and longer drain intervals. I vote to go right to the PAO. But then again-Its not my bike. For what its worth-I went with the Mobil 1 on my Kaw Ninja 250 at 500 miles. "Break-in" oil was not specified. [I dont know] No oil consumption at 1600 miles.
 
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Oklahoma
You are fixing to put the dreaded Moly in that Bike Motor,,it is in the Pennzoil. Why not use the proven Castrol Grand Prix Single wt or the Chevron Delo 400 for break-in ?
 

msparks

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Clarksville, Tennessee
quote:
Originally posted by dragboat: You are fixing to put the dreaded Moly in that Bike Motor,,it is in the Pennzoil. Why not use the proven Castrol Grand Prix Single wt or the Chevron Delo 400 for break-in ?
Crap Crap Crap, I didn't know that it had it until I just picked it up. I will be taking it back and getting delo or something. I can't find the castrol stuff we discuss, also its still kind of cool out for that heavy of an oil. I'm freaking out with the 15w stuff.
 

Jay

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Idaho Falls, ID
Ever consider having the break-in oil analyzed? It may help you determine what's in it that makes it a "break-in" oil. When I had the factory-fill break-in oil analyzed in my Acura RSX the break-in ingredient was moly--982ppm of it. The oil most likely was Mobil Drive Clean which has all group III basestocks. FWIW, I would go ahead and use the Pennzoil since you already have it. I don't think the small amount of moly in it will be a problem in your bike. Redline's 500ppm moly didn't bother satterfi's wet clutch, and oils that contain moly never bothered my wet clutch either.
 
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A Mobil tech document said new vehicles can be safely broken in with Synthetics. A better question...are OEM engines filled with Mobil 1 in the factory test fired with a synthetic fill? I would obviously expect some kind of pre-lube compound spread on the bearings and what not similar to the stuff machine shops use. Correct me if i am wrong...I have not assembly line experiance lol
 

msparks

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Clarksville, Tennessee
Well, Problem solved. Went to Walmart to get the Rotella, they didn't have it in the Gallon Jugs for the $12 like I have been reading about. So I ended up buy the Pennzoil 15w40 Longlife with Purebase. I'll run this another 1000-1500 miles then switch over. Thanks for your help. I was really looking foward to trying the Rotella, but oh well. As far as break in is concerned. I am used to BMW's that really need a good breakin or they will use oil big time. I changed over to Amsoil at 3300 and it used a considerable amount for the next 4K or so. (Until I took it across arizona at over 100mph) It quit using oil after that.
 
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