Why would 10w burn more than 5w?

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Originally Posted by rollinpete
Originally Posted by D1dad
Yeah Nissan stamped the dipstick and it never used what they considered "excessive" and it really hasn't ever consumed anymore whether it was 30k or 100. As far as M1, I have used it in the 5-30 flavor as well as pphm and just about everything in between. M1 consumed the most and I only used it once. I usually used qs synthetic or shell synthetic because I bought several cases when a gas station was closing down. I'm running to Cincinnati tomorrow which is 400 miles round trip so I'll report back. The rings makes since, just [censored] me off because this car is as close to mint as you'll find.


One quart 1000 miles isn't the end of an engine but you could do some checks on it.
You may just have some leaky valve seals. does it smoke at start up? and then stop when running for a while?
Note: If it keeps smoking then you have problems



No smoke at startup. I followed my son driving it and no puff of smoke when he floored it, no residue anywhere on the engine to indicate a leak or drips on the garage floor. Precat was intact during nissans tranny swap under warranty. No check engine light or misses. Pcv has been replaced a couple times and the old ones were still functional. Plugs all looked good when I replaced them at 100k. Exhaust is sooty but the Nissan tech attributed that to the factory air fuel tune and showed me another he had in the shop with the same issues. If the consumption had ever gotten worse I'd be really concerned, but even running through the Smokey mountains and back it used no more than usual. I'm tempted to trade it in but I typically run my cars till the wheels fall off, put them back on and run them some more. Very frustrating but I'd drive this car to California and back and not be concered, as long as I packed a few quarts of oil. I've never ran anything more than 87 octane so maybe better quality fuel would help? I don't see why though.
 
Originally Posted by dave1251
10W30's tend to be lighter at 100C versus their 5W30 counterparts.

Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by dave1251
10W30's tend to be lighter at 100C versus their 5W30 counterparts.

For some strange reason HTHS is usually lower also.

Why is that?
Being new to this forum, I'm scratching my head...
 
400 miles yesterday and it used about 8oz. That's roughly 3/4 qt in 1k. Normally that would be a little higher than 5-30, but with fresh oil....5-30, the car generally burnt nothing for the first thousand miles, then 3/4 every 1k after. The 10-30 used this much right out of the gate. I don't know if it's a mobil1 thing or a 10-30 thing?
 
5w vs 10w should not matter. 1000 miles before your next oil change, add half a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase. It will help loosen the rings so they seal better. I would suggest changing that oil immediately after the car has been driven for an hour or more to make sure the sludge does not have a chance to settle (carefully as it will be hot). Let it drain entirely (I let it sit for 30 minutes and even rock the car to get that last bit out). Put 1/4 bottle of Marvel in the next two oil changes and that should be it. Just use regular oil - 5w in winter 10w in summer.

During university, I inherited a 1984 escort with 130000km that was visibly burning oil on startup. I put half a bottle of MMO and ran it for 1500km. Oil was black and filter was very heavy. I then did a regular oil change and put in the other half of the MMO bottle. Car never burned or ate oil afterwards. I sold it at 230000km.

Someone suggested Marvel for my parent's 84 Grand Marquis 5.0. I checked the oil one day. It was low, black, and thin. I told my mom she really needed an oil change. She said she just had it done at a garage so I took it back and watched them change it again. I even scratched an x on the filter to make sure it was replaced. We never went back and I questioned all of the previous changes - especially with the visible sludge in the valve cover. I poured half a bottle of MMO in. The oil went black right away and the filter weighed a few pounds 2000km later. After that treatment, the inside of the valve cover was caramel and the oil stayed clear for an extra 1000km from then on.
 
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Originally Posted by edgrrr
5w vs 10w should not matter. 1000 miles before your next oil change, add half a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase. It will help loosen the rings so they seal better. I would suggest changing that oil immediately after the car has been driven for an hour or more to make sure the sludge does not have a chance to settle (carefully as it will be hot). Put 1/4 bottle in the next two oil changes and that should be it.

During university, I inherited a 1984 escort with 130000km that was visibly burning oil on startup. I put half a bottle of MMO and ran it for 1500km. Oil was black and filter was very heavy. I then did a regular oil change and put in the other half of the MMO bottle. Car never burned or ate oil afterwards. I sold it at 230000km.

The first time I used Marvel was on my parent's 84 Grand Marquis 5.0 with lots of sludge inside the valve cover. I checked the oil one day. It was low, black, and thin. I told my mom she really needed an oil change. She said she just had it done at a garage so I took it back and watched them change it again. I even scratched an x on the filter to make sure it was replaced. We never went back and I questioned all of the previous changes - especially with the visible sludge in the valve cover. I poured half a bottle of MMO in. The oil went black right away and the filter weighed a few pounds 2000km later. After that treatment, the inside of the valve cover was caramel and the oil stayed clear for an extra 1000km from then on.



It does matter because 10W30 tend to be blended 5 to 10% lighter than it's 5W30 counterpart.
 
Originally Posted by dave1251


It does matter because 10W30 tend to be blended 5 to 10% lighter than it's 5W30 counterpart.


Except the OP used M1 High Mileage 10w30, which is one of the thicker 30 grades available.
 
Now it's got peak 10w30 synthetic along with Mobil 1 hm. I'm at 1k and it's used 3/4 of a quart. That's right around the norm after the first 1k of an oil change but not the first thousand. For some reason the 10-30 caused consumption right away as opposed to later.
 
I'm gonna try valvoline synthetic with max life, 5-40 if this doesn't stabilize a bit. The 10-30 is making the engine idle better and seems more responsive or maybe it's placebo.
 
Originally Posted by dave1251
It does matter because 10W30 tend to be blended 5 to 10% lighter than it's 5W30 counterpart.



My point is the OP's issue is burning oil so a Marvel flush should be the focus to stop blowby vs the weight of the oil. The OP saw oil consumption for both weights and should be rightfully confused as to 10W burning faster than 5W since it is counter intuitive. Since he is from Ohio, 5W for the winter and 5W or 10W otherwise.
 
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Originally Posted by edgrrr
My point is the OP's issue is burning oil so a Marvel flush should be the focus to stop blowby vs the weight of the oil. The OP saw oil consumption for both weights and should be rightfully confused as to 10W burning faster than 5W since it is counter intuitive. Since he is from Ohio, 5W for the winter and 5W or 10W otherwise.

Unless it is below freezing there won't be much viscosity difference between the two grades at all. In fact it is possible the 5W could be slightly thicker depending on the temperature and brand.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by edgrrr
My point is the OP's issue is burning oil so a Marvel flush should be the focus to stop blowby vs the weight of the oil. The OP saw oil consumption for both weights and should be rightfully confused as to 10W burning faster than 5W since it is counter intuitive. Since he is from Ohio, 5W for the winter and 5W or 10W otherwise.

Unless it is below freezing there won't be much viscosity difference between the two grades at all. In fact it is possible the 5W could be slightly thicker depending on the temperature and brand.


This!

But having said that sometimes its what's available or on Sale. Right now I'm running Havoline Pro DS 10W -30. Why it was on sale with a rebate and 5w-30 was not in stock.
 
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