Why not a 0w all the time?

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Originally Posted By: river_rat
Originally Posted By: spasm3
i've always wondered what temperature it took to see the diff in a 0w and say a 5w

It has to be pretty cold to make that much difference, in my opinion.
I borrowed this from a post by spin9k over at the RX8 Forums:
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One main advantage of the better 0W-XX oils is that they have higher VIs than 5W-XX oils. A good example of this is M1 0W-40 with it's 185 VI and an even better example are the Japanese 0W-20 oils with their 200+ VIs.
In the later example they are a good 30% lighter even at room temperature and more than 50% as you approach the freezing mark compared to a typical 5W-20. So you don't have to wait for temp's below freezing to see real benefits.

That temperature/viscosity graph is pure [censored]. All oils go parabolic eventually at cold temp's. To see what a proper gragh looks like click on the following:
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html

0W-XX oils have to use better base oils than most 5W-XX and heavier oils, consiquently their NOACK percentages are no higher and often lower for the same oil weight.

There are no technical disadvantages to 0W-XX oils today over 5W-XX oils, they are superior lubricants. The only problem is that they are not as universally available and can cost more.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
The GF-4 SM Toyota and the Subaru 0W-20s.


Thanks. Now it's time for me to hunt down the best price.
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Originally Posted By: DragRace
There is nothing wrong with running 0WXX all year round in hot or in cold climates. Don't let the 0 fool you. Sure it does flow better when it is cold but it is still a 20 or 30 weight oil and will protect you as such when the engine gets hot.

My last run of 0w30 Red line,I ran for 11 months,had no issues.As for this winter fill,I'll be running Amsoil's 0w30,and from that point on,I'll be sticking with a 0w30.

Dont be afraid of the 0-weight oils.


Same here.
I run mostly RL 0W-30, with one quart of RL 0W-40 thrown in for good measure.
If I am ever that worried about a high ambient heat, mid-summer change not having enough of an HTHS number, I would do a 50/50 mix of the above two excellent oils.
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If you don't have one, install an OP gauge and then you'll know exactly what the operational viscosity is in your engine at any given time.
It certainly beats wearing a belt and suspenders. With an OP gauge it's like sizing your wasteband perfectly so that you don't need to wear either.

BTW, I like your oil choice, although even RL 0W-30 straight up with it's HTHSV of 3.2cP is likely heavier than you need.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
BTW, I like your oil choice, although even RL 0W-30 straight up with it's HTHSV of 3.2cP is likely heavier than you need.



The accurate OP gauge install is the very next project.
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I wish that my ECM had an oil pressure/oil temp supported PID, so that I could read them on my Ipod Palmer 'Dash Command' wifi app, as that would save A LOT of coin and bother.
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As far as the HTHSV goes, LSx engines have been shown/proven to do better with numbers at least slightly higher than 3.2-3.5, as well as cSts @ 100*C of higher than 10.3 or so, especially if used/abused very hard in the heat of summer.
I never looked to actually see what the suggested GM spec HTHS was for my year LS1, if they ever even gave one.

A 3.2 HTHSV is just about right for my purposes in the late fall/winter/early spring, so I do not think that just one quart (out of almost 6.5 total) of a very high VI 0W-40 is going to hurt anything too much.
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It's nice that the new Camero's now come with both oil temperature and oil pressure gauges.
I agree retro fitting is a bother, particularly locating the gauge in an unobtrusive spot within easy eyesight.

Keep in mind that OP is the bottom line in fine tuning the oil's viscosity to any application. Choose the minimum hot OP you're comfortable with. I've heard with Chevy's you'll have no chance of bearing wiping with 50 psi but if the increased safety margin of 55 psi makes you happier then go with that.
Then you run the lowest HTHSV oil (some call it bearing viscosity since it correlated with OP) that give you the 55 psi hot.
Keep in mind your engine has no idea what the grade of oil or HTHSV value is, all it knows is what the operational viscosity is at any given moment and that is largely temperature related although oil shear and fuel dilution do enter the picture. But that that doesn't matter to an OP gauge as it give the bottom on the actual viscosity.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
It's nice that the new Camero's now come with both oil temperature and oil pressure gauges.
I agree retro fitting is a bother, particularly locating the gauge in an unobtrusive spot within easy eyesight.


ALL of the 4th gen LS1 f bodies (I believe even the LT1s as well) came from the factory with op gauages right in the dash.
I just question the accuracy and precision of said gauges (given how far off my coolant temp gauge is to the actual reading from the ECM PID).
That's why I feel the need to install a GREAT aftermarket instrument (Stack, Auto Meter, etc.).
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If there's more than one pick-up point for the OP you could just get a test gauge to make some comparisons. Although I'm sure the accuracy of the stock gauges must have been discussed on Camaro websites? Either way, if it comes down to new gauges, if you could simply up-date what you have in the same location that would be nice and sanitary.
 
I have been using Mobil 1's 0W-30 AFE in my Corolla for the past 850 miles. The interesting part is my Corolla typically burns about 1 quart every 1000 miles regardless of synthetic or conventional oil. I checked my oil this morning and the mark is still on full! I did add about 1/5 of a quart a few weeks ago, but that is still far below my usual consumption level. I even had a 80 mph run for a few miles which normally drops the oil level pretty quickly. I am just very surprised that any oil, let alone a 0W would curb my consumption by this much! I honestly expected to burn the oil very quickly.

I will be using this oil year round!
 
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