Just pulled the cam covers off my Supra today. After 126K miles of Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec at 5-6K OCI, no sludge whatsoever. Just a very light coating of "varnish" type material. And I mean light, like a very thin coating that was sprayed on. I'll post some pics if anyone is interested.
Why I Like Synthetics
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...so we assume that dino at 1/3 the cost would be guaranteed sludge?
Audi, I don't want you to feel left out so I let you in on a little secret. Dino has been in it three times before and Delvac 1300 has been put in it recently.
On a more serious note, do we have any pics posted of 1/3 the cost dino fed engines with 5-6K OCIs after 126K miles? Since a lot of people believe current dinos are that good, I'm thinking of switching this vehicle over to them and 4-5K OCIs.
Once the head gasket is replaced, I'll AutoRX it and then try HDEOs in the summer and Chev/Hav/Penz 10w30 for the colder winter months.
I won't have a chance to post the pics until this weekend, so I'll thank y'all in advance for some patience.
On a more serious note, do we have any pics posted of 1/3 the cost dino fed engines with 5-6K OCIs after 126K miles? Since a lot of people believe current dinos are that good, I'm thinking of switching this vehicle over to them and 4-5K OCIs.
Once the head gasket is replaced, I'll AutoRX it and then try HDEOs in the summer and Chev/Hav/Penz 10w30 for the colder winter months.
I won't have a chance to post the pics until this weekend, so I'll thank y'all in advance for some patience.
I pulled the valve covers on my 94' 2.5L Mazda MX-6 at that exact same mileage and noticed the exact same thing: Just a very slight coat of varnish, but mine was mainly only on the valve covers themselves. All the cams and lifter rollers were bright, shiny metal with a coating of oil on top. Not a spec of sludge to be seen
Nothing but 4,000mi OCI cheap SJ or SL dino oil, usually Havoline or Mobil drive clean.
[ September 08, 2004, 01:00 AM: Message edited by: Senor Quack ]
Nothing but 4,000mi OCI cheap SJ or SL dino oil, usually Havoline or Mobil drive clean.
[ September 08, 2004, 01:00 AM: Message edited by: Senor Quack ]
Senor Quack, you had a little bit of an advantage, this car started life when API SF was the norm. Plus some of the OCIs were over 10K miles. That's another reason I switched to synthetics, to gain some flexibility in the OCIs.
The reason for the slight coating of varnish is most likely because of the fake synthetic Castrol Syntec. I never had a car with any varnish due to Mobil 1. Incuding a 4 1/2 quart capacity Dodge Caravan with 14,000 mile(mobil 1)oil changes(OCI) with 150,000 miles on the odometer.
Kernel, you may be on to something. On another vehicle I owned that had a strict diet of Mobil 1 I don't remember the "fake varnish". Although, this car did sit for weeks, sometimes months at a time during it's life.
Here's the OCI record. (Kinda' goes to show why I write things down. My memory and the written record don't always coincide.)
Here's the OCI record. (Kinda' goes to show why I write things down. My memory and the written record don't always coincide.)
The basis for my first post was a few years ago there was a link from a Mustang board on here with a guy who had a DOHC Mustang Cobra with 3X,XXX miles on it and already had a light film of varnish under the valve covers - using Castrol Syntec.
The reason the topic was made was because another person in the same post, showed their Cobra that had a strict Mobil 1 diet was as clean as can be, like virtually 100% of people on here have found.
The reason the topic was made was because another person in the same post, showed their Cobra that had a strict Mobil 1 diet was as clean as can be, like virtually 100% of people on here have found.
Does varnish or sludge come from smoke, like the carbon inside my bbq? Is the smoke from oil or blow-by?
Sounds like M1 doesn't smoke at normal engine temps. And it keeps the rings from sticking.
My head and cams were orange after 1 OCI with orange colored oil. I think the orange dye stuck to the varnish that was already there.
Sounds like M1 doesn't smoke at normal engine temps. And it keeps the rings from sticking.
My head and cams were orange after 1 OCI with orange colored oil. I think the orange dye stuck to the varnish that was already there.
Probably because that thicker lube did not roll over and off the parts as well .
Go back in time and use a 30wt synlube would you , then report back
Sorry , could not resist
Just look at all the sludge that evil dino oil left in my 90k mile 5.0 Ford.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=006217
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=006217
...at least I have something constructive to say.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005119
Yeah Potter, it seems like you really KNOW what you are talking about.
The cleanest engine I ever saw with a fair amount of use on it was my18hp, liquid-cooled Honda tractor. It was purchased in 1996 (I think) and sees at least 60-70 hours of use each year.
The way the oil filler hole is, I can see quite a lot of the head/valvetrain innards just by looking down the fill hole. It has a 2.1 quart capacity and a full flow oil filter (Fram/Supertech #3593a or Wix 1334).
No varnish, no staining, no color of any kind. It looks as though the motor was assembled a few days ago.
For the first few years I used a homemade blend of mineral oil and Mobil 1. One year I forgot to give it an oil change. In the last few years I used Delo400 15W-40 followed by Schaeffer 15W-40 synthetic blend.
Someone posted pics of a Soobie motor here which had over 75,000 miles on it using Chevron Supreme dino and it looked mighty fine.
It was at least a year ago, have no idea if the pic (link) is still here or how you might find it with a search.
--- Bror Jace
The way the oil filler hole is, I can see quite a lot of the head/valvetrain innards just by looking down the fill hole. It has a 2.1 quart capacity and a full flow oil filter (Fram/Supertech #3593a or Wix 1334).
No varnish, no staining, no color of any kind. It looks as though the motor was assembled a few days ago.
For the first few years I used a homemade blend of mineral oil and Mobil 1. One year I forgot to give it an oil change. In the last few years I used Delo400 15W-40 followed by Schaeffer 15W-40 synthetic blend.
Someone posted pics of a Soobie motor here which had over 75,000 miles on it using Chevron Supreme dino and it looked mighty fine.
It was at least a year ago, have no idea if the pic (link) is still here or how you might find it with a search.
--- Bror Jace
My secret weapon!
Actually, I do not think the Rx really contributed a whole lot to the cleanliness of this engine. I think it was more that fact that I used to be a real stickler for 3k changes with dino. I did not really see the AutoRx treatment oil or rinse oil turn a whole lot blacker than normal (not very scientific, I know!
At any rate, my miles per day have increased, and I am tired of crawling under the car so often, so I took the plunge, and I am now running GC 0W-30 in this engine. I have about 6k miles on my current batch.
I am thoroughly convinced that 3-4k dino OCIs will keep an engine clean on the inside. Over 4k, with no LC or A-Rx, and all bets are off, IMO.
I am 100% sold on Synthetic oil.
I have several VW and I have used both synthetic and dino.
Car that used synthetic (AMSOIL) is as clean as a new engine. (I changed the oil pan last week)
Car that runs dino oil looks like it is painted dark brown. No solids or sludge that I can physically remove but it looks dirty.
Every time I change the synthetic oil after one year of usage all that comes out is dark colored oil.. the Dino oil chnage looks like dark colored oil followed by chunks of very thick semi liquid oil.
Since I change my oil once a year it does not cost me more to run synthetic oil. I save the environment and my engine will last longer.
End of story.
I have several VW and I have used both synthetic and dino.
Car that used synthetic (AMSOIL) is as clean as a new engine. (I changed the oil pan last week)
Car that runs dino oil looks like it is painted dark brown. No solids or sludge that I can physically remove but it looks dirty.
Every time I change the synthetic oil after one year of usage all that comes out is dark colored oil.. the Dino oil chnage looks like dark colored oil followed by chunks of very thick semi liquid oil.
Since I change my oil once a year it does not cost me more to run synthetic oil. I save the environment and my engine will last longer.
End of story.
Z-06, how do you like the Delvac? I find it to be as smooth as high-end synths without the bogging-down I get with other 15w-40s.
I will go out on a limb and say the 5w-50 Syntec is responsable for the cleanliness of this engine.
I will go out on a limb and say the 5w-50 Syntec is responsable for the cleanliness of this engine.
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